I have a 75 Vette thats Automatic. When you put in gear starter grinds. Does not do it in reverse or park. I also had key in on postion and moved gear selector to drive and it started. Would this be a bad neutral saftey switch ?

 

The neutral switch won't make the starter energize. It sounds like you may need to adjust the ignition switch.

Gary

 

Or moving the shifter is somehow causing a short that puts power to the wire that goes from the neutral safety switch to the solenoid.

 

I believe you are right in that thinking you have problems with your neutral safety switch. If the starter is cranking in gear that alone is grounds to take a look.



The act of putting it into gear, aka: sliding down past the neutral position, might be energizing the solenoid again. Although it could just be way out of whack or alignment (broken clip, slide, or housing).

Honestly it doesn't take too much to play with it and figure out WTF. 4 screws and a shifter ****.

Check out the pic and diagram over at ZIP LINK HERE. Keep in mind you're looking at it from the passengers side there and the switch is actually right under the indicator panel. There is a bit of room to work with and you could prolly get a meter on all those points while you play with the shifter.

 

Or your auto tranny is "throwing craps" and 3 clutches are trying to engage at the same time [when you select drive]. Gear 'grinding' sounds about the same whether it is a starter drive gear or gears in the tranny.

I cannot think of any reason why the starter would decide to engage when you are NOT turning the ignition to ON or because you put the transmission in drive range.

 

It sounded like he's getting it started and engaged in drive without the grinding or he has actually started the vehicle while just moving the shifter **** down without touching the key. Admitted, it's a weird read:

I'm pretty sure I could tell the difference between the tranny right under my butt and the flywheel screaming loud and proud out from under the hood. I'd think the starter would tend to throw out a more consistent wail.

 

Okey-dokey. You asked...I answered with an opinion. If you don't want 'guesses' as to what might be happening with your car....don't ask.

 

It is the starter trying to engage. and only does it when going into drive and not touching key. Car starts great no more noise from starter untill it starts to go into drive. I will be trying some of the advice today. Got frusturated yesterday decided best to regroup and start fresh today. I have never had one to do this before. But i did check wires at starter and tranny. all seemed good. Will start at ground one again after coffe. I tried to find neutral safety switch locally but nobody had one so will have to order. Thanks for all of the replys.

 

Sorry i was not up at that time. But it is the starter screaming and only when you try to select drive. It quits as soon as you realease pressure from trying to go into drive. Does not do it in neutral or park with engine running. Have not found any loose wires at starter or trans. Or any bare wires. Also am not keeping it there but just a second do not want to have to replace flywheel for busted teeth or starter if i dont have to

 

Ok slept had coffee, went back to basics. Started car unpluged neutral safety switch put into gear no more grinding. Will order new switch today

 

glad you found you problem....seems like an easy fix

 

I hope you are ordering a new ignition switch and not a Neutral safety switch.

 

I'd definitely do some more troubleshooting especially if you've got that baby in your hand now. Just because you broke the circuit by removing the NSS doesn't necessarily mean it is the actual culprit.

Calif/Duke why would his ignition switch only pop the starter again when moving the shifter to drive? I'd think that it would try and pop the starter every time he moved in and out of Park too. It would probably have trouble getting the car started without an extra grind. Seems awfully strange if his moving the shifter down can actually start the car without any sort of ignition press.

Hey man, I'm not the OP... I'm always looking to hear more and read up other opinions. We are all just taking guesses off of three sentences. The jist of my message is it's too easy to check the NSS to not spend 5 minutes on it.

As far as not being able to tell the difference between the flywheel grind and the tranny. If you think about it... We've all cringed at someone double tapping their starter at one time or another. You can hear that across the parking lot at a drag strip. It's like nails on a chalkboard. Now if your AT starts making that noise just sitting there idling you better go get yourself a drain pan quick before you stain your garage floor.

 

I am trying to figure out why it could be ignition switch. It does not keep grinding or hang up once started and is not slow releasing after starting. It only happens when at idle and trying to engage in drive. Yes I know its hard to get a picture from a typed description. I did go ahead and order neutral safety switch. Figured i would start there start there first. Thanks again for all the replys.

 

I'm glad the OP found the problem. I was just a little annoyed at the 'curt' response to a legitimate suggestion. Maybe a little more "tolerance" to alternate ideas [than what "modern-day" U.S. society is accustomed to doing] is in order with some folks on the Forum.

P.S. {you really don't need to answer for the OP....}

 

Sorry did not mean to sound curt was just trying to understand why it could be Ignition switch and if I was missing something. I have appreciated all of the replys and information given it is nice to have other people around to help with something strange like this. Thanks again hope this works. Got along way to go on this project.

 

Here is my quote from the OPs other thread.

"Also try disconnecting the seat belt interlock relay in the console after the car is started."

The ign switch,seat belt bypass relay and seat belt interlock relay are the only ways the purple wire that trips the starter solenoid could be accessed without burned and shorted wires.
IMO if either of the 2 relays shorted they could be your problem.
You've already said you disconnected the bypass relay and that wasn't it.
I would try the test and disconnect the interlock relay before buying a NS switch.
I can't remember the internals of the interlock relay but if memory serves me when you shift into drive a buzzer sounds if the seat belt is not connected,this tells me the seat belt system senses "DRIVE".
I don't think the buzzer comes on in reverse , neutral or park.
DRIVE seems to be the key here. Just a thought !