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Vette stalls out when hot... ideas?

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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:04 PM
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Default Vette stalls out when hot... ideas?

The car starts fine and runs great, but say I shut it off and run into a store, come out and start it up.. it will start, but then it will idle down to nothing and stall out. After that it's really hard to get started again. Let it cool off and it will restart and run fine till it warms up again. If I'm at a light, I have to keep reving it so it won't die. Does anyone have any ideas of where I should trouble shoot first? BTW, it has a new fuel pump and once it's under way, has no trouble excelerating.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Sounds like vapor lock. You need to ensure the fuel system has a return line that is working properly.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bronze76
Sounds like vapor lock. You need to ensure the fuel system has a return line that is working properly.
OR..............your carb is dumping fuel, do you smell gas ?
jets could be clogged or dirt in your needle & seat ........!!!
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bronze76
Sounds like vapor lock. You need to ensure the fuel system has a return line that is working properly.
I also have a '68 Shelby with the same symptoms. Could you please describe the cause and cure for vapor lock?

Thanks
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bronze76
Sounds like vapor lock. You need to ensure the fuel system has a return line that is working properly.
I dont see a return line anywhere before or after the fuel filter... How do I fix it..
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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sounds like vapor lock to me
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 07:16 AM
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To me vapor lock is a bit of an urban legend. I've heard about it a million times but never seen it happen. The idea is that a fuel line is too close to something hot like exhaust. The cure is to re-route the line away from the heat.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 07:22 AM
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Feel the coil to see if it's too hot when that happens and/or try a replacement coil.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 07:27 AM
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I've had actual vapor locks occur. It has to be pretty hot under the hood for it to happen though. i.e. I had a little Ford Ranger that I had dropped a built 302 in. The fuel line ran across the top of the engine and I was running an electric fan. The fan wasn't coming on soon enough and when it got too warm under there the fuel in the line would vaporize and the engine would die, typically in heavy traffic on a busy street. I rerouted the fuel line and modified the fan setting and presto.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 07:36 AM
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HEI or points? I had a similar issue that after the car was hot and i came to a light it would slowly rev down until it stalled. Had to keep reving the motor. Replaced the HEI module and that took care of it. On mine if you put your hand on the top of the distributer it was pretty hot. I think that it was a result from who ever installed the distributer used the original resistive wire as power.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by army
I've had actual vapor locks occur. It has to be pretty hot under the hood for it to happen though. i.e. I had a little Ford Ranger that I had dropped a built 302 in. The fuel line ran across the top of the engine and I was running an electric fan. The fan wasn't coming on soon enough and when it got too warm under there the fuel in the line would vaporize and the engine would die, typically in heavy traffic on a busy street. I rerouted the fuel line and modified the fan setting and presto.
So I wonder if the fans are part of the problem..I upgrade to dual spal fans.. They are set to come on at 160 and 200..
do you think 200 is to high? The Hei has given me problems in the past.. I replaced it a couple of years ago.. at that time the car just wouldn't start.

Last edited by Scudd; Sep 17, 2010 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Mine is doing the same thing. What we learned is that the fuel is boiling in the carb after you shut it off, and the fuel is dumping into the carb and flooding. This is due to the fact that the heat is transfering from the intake into the carb in my case. I have no hood clearance so i cant insulate it at all. I am going to pull the intake and replace the gaskets with a propane engine style gasket. This has the metal heat riser block off in it. As well i am going to try to re-route the fuel line from the front of the engine to the side so it spends less time on top of the intake manifold.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Previous owner had removed the return line on mine and I had problem with engine just quitting and not restarting until it cooled. I replaced the gas cap with a vented cap from AutoZone for $5-10 bucks and have never had another issue.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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I just had the same carb boiling problem in another little Ranger pickup. That one has a 347 in it with an Edelbrock carb. I didn't put a heat insulator between the intake and carb and it wouldn't start hot. I carved an insulator out of the 3/4" plastic they use in hockey arenas for the boards and the problem went away. You can even use insulators made from wood if you're good with a scroll saw and you want to test the theory.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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This is why i wish i would of stayed with the stock style QJ and intake. Less hassle and BS after wards with all this Edelbrock crap. It would of fit under the hood better,and wouldnt have this heating issue.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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I had a problem with my 62, where on hot days if I left it for about 10 minutes, it would restart, but then stall in a minute or two and then would not start for another half hour or so. I suspected vapor lock in the fuel pump, and proved it by pouring cold water on the fuel pump right after it stalled. It then started right up. A new fuel pump fixed it permanently. It sounds like your problem is vapor lock in the carb. You can prove it by getting it into the stalled mode ouside your garage, and then running water from a hose over the carb bowl area and seeing if that allows it to start and run.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Scudd
The car starts fine and runs great, but say I shut it off and run into a store, come out and start it up.. it will start, but then it will idle down to nothing and stall out. After that it's really hard to get started again. Let it cool off and it will restart and run fine till it warms up again. If I'm at a light, I have to keep reving it so it won't die. Does anyone have any ideas of where I should trouble shoot first? BTW, it has a new fuel pump and once it's under way, has no trouble excelerating.
OK test for vapor lock get two wood clothes pins, pin them between the fuel pump and the carb if it takes the problem away vapor lock. if not look at your Fuel Filter??? also could be the gasket in the carb cant think of its name. (sometimers).
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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What have you done to it very recently? Or did it all of a sudden, all by its lonesome, start doing this? Contaminated gas? Clogged filter? Bad gasket in the carb? What kind of carb are you running? When was it last touched? Timing issue?
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Lon Wayne
OK test for vapor lock get two wood clothes pins, pin them between the fuel pump and the carb if it takes the problem away vapor lock. if not look at your Fuel Filter??? also could be the gasket in the carb cant think of its name. (sometimers).
Ok.. I tried the cloths pin thing... loaded it up.. Still stalls out after it gets warmed up. The fuel filter is relativley new- less than 1k miles on it. Whats the gasket thing? BTW..it has a Edlebrock 650cfm carb.
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