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'68 half shafts

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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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Default '68 half shafts

Good day,

What is the correct diameter of the original halfshafts that were installed on a '68 L36 Vette??? Did the higher horsepower optioned Vettes have larger diameter halfshaft installed??? Thanks
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 10:01 AM
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It's the smaller of the 2 available - it's 2.5 inch. Used in all HP's

GM (in it's infinite wisdom) put the larger 3" shafts in some of the gutlss wonders they sold later on in the C3 years.

You can use the 3" shafts in a '68 unless you're NCRS.

-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; Oct 23, 2010 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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The larger 3" half shafts didn't appear until the late 70s. The only difference between SB and BB shafts was shot peening on the welds with the latter. Once there's a bit of surface rust they're impossible to tell apart.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Thanks, gentlemen.

Good group of guys here with a wealth of information.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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Hi,

my Car is a factory BB from 69 with the original M21 and 3,70 rear end etc.
Now it has a zz502 in it.
Someone is offering new HD half shafts with bearings and flanges (wheel side) here in germany. Pricing seems ok.
They are from Precision shaft Technologie in Florida, 2,5" size.
New U-joints are not included, but well, to replace them I would have to take the diff appart - what i really not want to do.

My question is, should I buy the HD half shafts, or are the original BB shafts good enough?
Or should I just buy them because of the new needle bearings? There are 130,000 miles on the old ones.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 10:59 AM
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Unless you plan on full throttle launches with wide sticky tires, the stock half shafts are fine. I've only bent one pair in my life and it wasn't easy.

There is no need to remove or disassemble the diff to change ujoints.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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Hi

The halfshafts are not the weakest part in the rear.

The spindle seems to be where the thread ends . I saw a couple sheared there, no damage to the shafts.

Rgds. Günther
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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Thought the U-joints in the diff are locked inside. Can they just be pulled out?

When i bought the car i recognized some "gearplay" between the right spindle flange and the spindle. You know, where the spinles are.
Dont know if this is a problem or not. It hasn´t changed since 10,000 miles, but on the left side its tight.

Ok, seems i will save some money, because this year i will keep my 225mm rear tyres. They limit the maximum torque automatically.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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The differential side yokes are held in place with snap rings or c-clips (not sure which) inside the differential, but if you only need to change the u-joints, then there is no need to remove the the yokes. Just unbolt the half shafts from the differential and spindle. Of course, there are other suspension pieces in the way that will probably need to be removed first.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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ok, little missunderstanding, i meant the sie yokes, and wrote u-joints.
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 01:39 PM
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Gee, I don't know. Up until this fall my 68 had one 2.5" and one 3" half shaft...
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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63-74 2.5
75-79 3.0
80-82 3.0 3/8 shorter
Mike
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