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I didn't replace my original 71 Ammeter, it still works but is not accurate. I wanted something I could accurately/discreetly get voltage readings from the battery itself so I installed a mini digital volt meter. I have it wired to the battery directly and have a mini toggle switch to turn it on/off. It is almost black faced so when it is off, it is barely noticeable. You could mount it in the ash tray so it would be completely concealed if you wanted to....I mounted mine down by my "hidden" temp gauge behind the console down by my foot. The mini volt meter is small enough you could mount it anywhere.
Not the cheapest but damn good quality. I have one in the Vette and one on my bike...The one on the bike has been there 3 yrs in all kinds of vibration/weather and still kicking...
A meter that reads 'voltage' isn't really an improvement if you remove the ammeter. You can have a [bad] battery that reads at full charge (voltage wise), but it has no capacity and discharges quickly. If you understand what to watch for with an ammeter, it will tell you whether the battery is accepting a full charge...or not. If you must have a voltmeter, remove the clock and stick a voltmeter in there. But keep the ammeter--and learn how to read it properly.
A meter that reads 'voltage' isn't really an improvement if you remove the ammeter. You can have a [bad] battery that reads at full charge (voltage wise), but it has no capacity and discharges quickly. If you understand what to watch for with an ammeter, it will tell you whether the battery is accepting a full charge...or not. If you must have a voltmeter, remove the clock and stick a voltmeter in there. But keep the ammeter--and learn how to read it properly.
I did it. It's not that hard. Use a voltmeter from a later car, change the needle if necessary to match. Tie the ammeter wires together and tape up (I actually changed my harness and re-used the wires). Install voltmeter. Use a pink wire (ignition switched) from temp gauge or fuel gauge to power it.
I hate voltmeters by themselves. An ammeter tells you what is going on a lot quicker. I think the commodity cars went to voltmeters because they are cheaper to install. An ammeter requires a separate higher resistance wire that is installed in parallel with the charging circuit since you don't want the high currents running through your dashboard.
On my 73, I kept the ammeter and installed a separate voltmeter. This combo was useful. Especially when the battery was dying.
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Let me see if I have this right...ammeter moves into the positive side after the battery has been discharged (after a start)...if the battery is able to take a charge; and moves very little or not at all if the battery is failing and unable to take a charge. Is that right?