Ive never attempted to do a brake job on a C3 so i was hoping to get some tips before I attempt. Id like to not go in blind basically. Im used to the C5 and nothing on that car seems to be typical to most cars. So Im pretty much just making sure theres nothing out of the norm from most cars.

 

It's pretty straight forward. The only snag is if you still have the original rotors and need to drill out the rivets. The caliper bolts may also be a bit tough to loosen.
Glenn

 

thanks I appreciate it

 

The chassis service manual would probably help. It lists the correct (GM recommended) bleeding sequence.

Stock up on your favorite beer. Have a good set of flare nut wrenches on hand before you get under way.

 

I have a pamphlet we send with our brake kits with installation tips. Give me a call if you want a copy.

Andrew
800-442-0335

 

Non-typical things as compared to modern disc brake setups...

1. Hard lines go directly to the rear calipers, flex lines connect to the hardlines on the t-arm. Use quality flare nut wrenches.

2. Pads are held in by a big pin which can be be removed allowing the pads to be lifted out without touching the caliper mountings. (moot point of course if you plan on rebuilding the caliper)

3. Rotors are riveted to the hubs ... drill them out, no need to replace

4. Caliper pistons use lip seals and not o-rings. Asking which is superior has been known to start wars in C3 tech world. When rebuilding my calipers I personally went with an o-ring rebuild because they are more tolerant of long periods of dormancy than lip seals.

5. Caliper pistons have springs in them. If you rebuild with o-rings, don't use the springs.

6. There's a distribution block on the frame front driver's side. Depending on the year, it may just be a switch or a combination of a switch and proportioning valve. Either way, some care is needed when if comes time to bleed because slamming the pedal down with a bleeder opened will cause an imbalance in the front and rear circuits which can throw the valve off-center blocking off the low pressure side. I've never had this happen as long as I use slow, smooth strokes on the pedal while bleeding (do a 3-count if you have to).

That's all I can think of at the moment. I'm sure there's more.

 

When its time to bleed them fill up your master cylinder then open up all the bleed screws and have a beer. When you are finished with that beer close all the bleed screws and refill your master cylinder. Use whatever pressure bleeder you want but don't put fluid in it. Hook it to your master cylinder and pressureize the system. If you don't have access to a pressure bleeder just pump slowly. Starting at right rear, open each bleeder one at a time and let the air out. Check your master cylinder a couple times to make sure you don't push all the fluid out of it. Gently tapping the calipers with a rubber mallet made me think it was helping the bubbles out. Refill the master cylinder and have another beer. Right now you should have a good pedal but repeat as necessary until you do. If you had put fluid in the pressure bleeder like its instructions said to, you would have a giant puddle of fluid on your garage floor. Have another beer to celebrate your lack of mess.

Bill

 

Thanks everyone it was so easy I about pooped my pants haha. I appreciate everyones input.