Clutch pedal?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Clutch pedal?
I just finished a long list of repairs to Liz's 68, including new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. After everything was installed I was surprised to find that the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor.
It turned out the the pin that connects the pedal arm to the pushrod had broken off, so the pedal was no longer attached to the pushrod.
I was hoping it would be an easy fix by just buying a new clevis pin and installing it, but it turns out the head of the pin was welded onto the clutch pedal at the factory. The head is still welded there, so unless it is cut off there is no way to put a new pin in there.
The small pin protruding to the left is the one I am talking about.
The head of the pin is on the right side of the arm and spot welded in 4 places.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Does anyone know of a fix for this without removing the entire clutch pedal?
Will I need to dismantle the entire dash and instrument cluster to get the clutch pedal out?
It turned out the the pin that connects the pedal arm to the pushrod had broken off, so the pedal was no longer attached to the pushrod.
I was hoping it would be an easy fix by just buying a new clevis pin and installing it, but it turns out the head of the pin was welded onto the clutch pedal at the factory. The head is still welded there, so unless it is cut off there is no way to put a new pin in there.
The small pin protruding to the left is the one I am talking about.
The head of the pin is on the right side of the arm and spot welded in 4 places.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Does anyone know of a fix for this without removing the entire clutch pedal?
Will I need to dismantle the entire dash and instrument cluster to get the clutch pedal out?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,237
Likes: 4,330
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi K,
The brake pedal also pivots on the rod on the clutch pedal. So both will need to come out to get at the clutch pedal.
I'd start by taking the seat out so you can lay on your back under the dash to make your assessment. Not pretty!
Regards,
Good Luck!
Alan
The brake pedal also pivots on the rod on the clutch pedal. So both will need to come out to get at the clutch pedal.
I'd start by taking the seat out so you can lay on your back under the dash to make your assessment. Not pretty!
Regards,
Good Luck!
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I just had mine out. In the process of reassembling now. It's a real PITA working in that area. In my case I had removed everything so I could clean things up and replace missing insulation, etc.
Best way to fix it IMO would be to remove the pedal assy. You'll need to at least remove the steering column. Four bolts holding the power brake booster, and four bolts in the windshield wiper tub. Disconnect clutch safety switch and brake light switch. Disconnect the power brake booster or master cylinder from the pedal. You may be able to drop the assy at this point. Not sure if you'll also need to remove the left instrument panel. Doing so will make things easier to disassemble but more work to reassemble.
Inspect all parts while they're out. Relube all joints. Replace rubber bumpers if necessary. Best to treat it as something you don't want to do again, take care of everything while it's apart.
Best way to fix it IMO would be to remove the pedal assy. You'll need to at least remove the steering column. Four bolts holding the power brake booster, and four bolts in the windshield wiper tub. Disconnect clutch safety switch and brake light switch. Disconnect the power brake booster or master cylinder from the pedal. You may be able to drop the assy at this point. Not sure if you'll also need to remove the left instrument panel. Doing so will make things easier to disassemble but more work to reassemble.
Inspect all parts while they're out. Relube all joints. Replace rubber bumpers if necessary. Best to treat it as something you don't want to do again, take care of everything while it's apart.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,732
Likes: 1,903
From: LONG ISLAND
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I just had mine out. In the process of reassembling now. It's a real PITA working in that area. In my case I had removed everything so I could clean things up and replace missing insulation, etc.
Best way to fix it IMO would be to remove the pedal assy. You'll need to at least remove the steering column. Four bolts holding the power brake booster, and four bolts in the windshield wiper tub. Disconnect clutch safety switch and brake light switch. Disconnect the power brake booster or master cylinder from the pedal. You may be able to drop the assy at this point. Not sure if you'll also need to remove the left instrument panel. Doing so will make things easier to disassemble but more work to reassemble.
Inspect all parts while they're out. Relube all joints. Replace rubber bumpers if necessary. Best to treat it as something you don't want to do again, take care of everything while it's apart.
Best way to fix it IMO would be to remove the pedal assy. You'll need to at least remove the steering column. Four bolts holding the power brake booster, and four bolts in the windshield wiper tub. Disconnect clutch safety switch and brake light switch. Disconnect the power brake booster or master cylinder from the pedal. You may be able to drop the assy at this point. Not sure if you'll also need to remove the left instrument panel. Doing so will make things easier to disassemble but more work to reassemble.
Inspect all parts while they're out. Relube all joints. Replace rubber bumpers if necessary. Best to treat it as something you don't want to do again, take care of everything while it's apart.
I'm wondering if you can drill out the old clevis pin or drill another hole close & insert a new one without having to go through removing EVERYTHING ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
That's an awfully difficult area to work in if you're asking about repairing while in the car. Otherwise, I'd assume another pedal should be easy to find. If the pedal were out and the owner wants to repair I'd suggest looking at grinding off the welds, popping the broken part out and replacing with another. Sounds like more work than it's worth..
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
I bought some grade 8 bolts today that I can turn the parts out of on my lathe. As long as I can get the head of the old pin off the pedal it should be a much quicker and easier fix than removing the steering column and entire pedal assembly. I will eventually do that, but I am sure that I will find several other items that need to be fixed when I pull all those parts out and I don't want to get that involved in it right now if I can avoid it.
I'll try to post pics of the temporary repair as it progresses.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,732
Likes: 1,903
From: LONG ISLAND
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I think what I am going to try first is to cut the head of the old pin off the pedal arm with a dremel or a air chisel, then I am going to make temporary pin that will fit through the hole and bolt in place.
I bought some grade 8 bolts today that I can turn the parts out of on my lathe. As long as I can get the head of the old pin off the pedal it should be a much quicker and easier fix than removing the steering column and entire pedal assembly. I will eventually do that, but I am sure that I will find several other items that need to be fixed when I pull all those parts out and I don't want to get that involved in it right now if I can avoid it.
I'll try to post pics of the temporary repair as it progresses.
I bought some grade 8 bolts today that I can turn the parts out of on my lathe. As long as I can get the head of the old pin off the pedal it should be a much quicker and easier fix than removing the steering column and entire pedal assembly. I will eventually do that, but I am sure that I will find several other items that need to be fixed when I pull all those parts out and I don't want to get that involved in it right now if I can avoid it.
I'll try to post pics of the temporary repair as it progresses.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I've replaced many temporary fix arms. Most fail because the pin wobbles in the arm.
I saw one that worked while under a dash one day. The guy came up with some bearing washers on both sides of the pushrod with a grade 8 bolt fully tightened through the pushrod and pedal arm.
I saw one that worked while under a dash one day. The guy came up with some bearing washers on both sides of the pushrod with a grade 8 bolt fully tightened through the pushrod and pedal arm.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Well I was successful in getting the head of the old pin removed from the clutch pedal arm. About 5 minutes with the air chisel did the trick.
Broken pin and chiseled head:
I decided that I will have to pull the pedal assembly in order to fix it correctly, but since I need to check out all the work I did on the transmission, shifter, and clutch I installed a temporary pin.
The other problem I encountered during this process was the Bubba brake light switch bracket that looked like it was spray welded in place.
It broke off under the vibration of the air chisel.
so I had to make a new Bubba bracket that bolted in place to replace it.
I will still need to pull the pedal assembly in order to fix the clutch linkage correctly, but at least it is fixed well enough to take it out for a test drive.
Broken pin and chiseled head:
I decided that I will have to pull the pedal assembly in order to fix it correctly, but since I need to check out all the work I did on the transmission, shifter, and clutch I installed a temporary pin.
The other problem I encountered during this process was the Bubba brake light switch bracket that looked like it was spray welded in place.
It broke off under the vibration of the air chisel.
so I had to make a new Bubba bracket that bolted in place to replace it.
I will still need to pull the pedal assembly in order to fix the clutch linkage correctly, but at least it is fixed well enough to take it out for a test drive.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
