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I'm have always wondered where these numbers are located which either match or do not match. Is it possible that someone can post a picture of exactly WHERE these two sets of numbers are?
I don't want to ask my husband since he thinks I already know the answer...LOL :o
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by vette fetish
i'm have always wondered where these numbers are located which either match or do not match. Is it possible that someone can post a picture of exactly where these two sets of numbers are?
I don't want to ask my husband since he thinks i already know the answer...lol :o
WHAT YEAR CAR ?
THE NUMBERS ON MY 68 ARE HERE ON THE FRONT ENGINE PAD / MATCH THESE TO THE VIN # NUMBERS ON THE PILLAR POST OR DASH........
Last edited by 427SIXPACK; Nov 16, 2010 at 06:59 PM.
There are many / many numbers that fall into numbers matching category.
Motor / frame / trans / frame all have VIN # and are the primary #'s that need to match. If any of these do not , then the odds of finding the missing trans for example are near impossible.
Many other items need to have the correct casting # for the part and a date code that makes sense to the build date of the motor on some parts and build date of car on others.
Example , water pump installed at engine build , so water pump needs to be dated no more than ~6 months before motor assembly
Alternator was installed at car assembly and should make sense to that date.
In short , if you have the original Motor / Trans / frame / winshield vin tag , then you can spend the money to get the rest of the parts right.
On the other hand , Bill Gates does not have the money to make a car w/o original motor an original matchings numbers car. But he does have the money to make a fake matchins # car.
Also be ware , the phrase matchings numbers sounds great, but if you pay somebody to re stamp a motor or trans, you can make the numbers match.
Original Matching Numbers is closer to what is important.
Time was the tank sticker was the magic item needed. But there is a person now on E-Bay offering to make a fake 40 year old looking tank sticker.
Best course , buy from an original owner with 40 years of paper work.
You can also get a NCRS judging guide for 73-74 that will tell you the correct numbers for all the parts on your car from carb to alt to tranny etc. its a good reference guide as to what is correct.
Tim was the tans sticker was the magic item needed. But there is a person now on E-Bay offering to make a fake 40 year old looking tank sticker.
E-Bay? Really? How do I get in touch with this guy?... kidding...
From what I've heard the tank sticker was useful for validating the configuration of the car. Correct engine and options. No VIN on the sticker so some are now saying unless it's stuck to the tank (with original rust?) it could have come from any car....
Think I'll stay with the 'driver' route. Much fewer headaches, no need for all proof demanded these days for collectibles...
Hey, My 1977 came from the factory with a COPO Big Block! 1 of 1! Somebody important at GM owed the original owner money, so the GM guy special ordered the car for him.
See, I have the original tank sticker to prove it!
Hey, My 1977 came from the factory with a COPO Big Block! 1 of 1! Somebody important at GM owed the original owner money, so the GM guy special ordered the car for him.
See, I have the original tank sticker to prove it!
Kind of funny in a way... counterfeiters trying to stay a step ahead of the others... Now buyers need to be skeptical of documentation as well as the vehicle?
Kind of funny in a way... counterfeiters trying to stay a step ahead of the others... Now buyers need to be skeptical of documentation as well as the vehicle?
Kind of funny in a way... counterfeiters trying to stay a step ahead of the others... Now buyers need to be skeptical of documentation as well as the vehicle?
Here's a quote from that eBay ad:
this work is correct! and a MAJOR PLUS for all Corvette owners on their way to judging (NCRS).
Guess he's unaware that none of this stuff is even looked at during judging (ie worthless)
Yikes! It gets even worse!!! Glad I'm not into 'collecting'. Seems a buyer may need a team of experts to examine not only the stamp pad but the documents as well...
Actually, for a fee, the NCRS will look over your "original" documentation.
Interesting... I heard recently that a tank sheet is no longer proof of configuration unless it's still attached to the tank with rust, because the VIN isn't on the sheet. Original rust? That's a new one. What would I do, remove the tank and bring it to an NCRS official to have it validated? It seems the whole matter of proof of originality is getting a bit out of hand... Getting to the point where it's less certain originality can be proven... Now if Elvis would cough up those production records this would no longer be an issue.
Do you really think that matching numbers are worth bothering w/ f/ the years after the performance engines came in our 'Vettes? Through 1970, the engines were what I always call "real 'Vette engines." After the compression came down and emissions components were installed on the engines, our 'Vettes turned into sporty looking dogs. I hate getting blown off by the new pick-up trucks. I removed my smog pump, etc., dumped the converter and installed a 2 1/2" stainless system w/ Flowmaster mufflers, and installed an Edelbrock air gap manifold and 600 cfm Edelbrock carb, and ofcourse upped the timing. It runs alot (100%) better, but it's no match f/ the old hard-core 'Vette. What do you guys think?