Tarel, it appears you made the seats work on your factory sliders. In my case, I didn't want to use spacers and without them there was interference with the adjustment cable. At 6'1" I wanted all the head room I could get, so spacers were not an option. Wearing a helmet at the track requires all the head room you can get without removing the t-top headliner. Without the spacers and gaining as much headroom as possible, the factory sliders need to be modified, at least that was what I found on my 69. Since I didn't want to modify my original parts, as my original seats are in VGC, so I decided to go another direction. Even keeping the seats as low as possible, for guys 6'3" and over, this would not be enough headroom. There are guys who have lowered their floor to gain an extra inch. It is tight in there and definitely not designed for tall people. In the end, there are more than one way and whatever way works for your need is the best way. Sometimes choosing is not easy.
I'm glad that this thread popped up again because there are a couple of things that I want to address. The aluminum brackets are not adequate - one of them bent a little and one of them loosened up. My son works at a shop where he can cut new brackets out of 1/8" steel and weld them to the seat rails. That will be much more secure.
Both of my sons are 5'10" and they complain about headroom while driving. I took out the passenger seat last weekend, and it looks like we may be able to cut 1" off the bottom of the seat foam to lower the driver seat. The front part of the seat frame may have to be sectioned 1" also, not sure yet. At worst it will be a $60 experiment if I have to buy a new seat foam.

Rick B.
Both of my sons are 5'10" and they complain about headroom while driving. I took out the passenger seat last weekend, and it looks like we may be able to cut 1" off the bottom of the seat foam to lower the driver seat. The front part of the seat frame may have to be sectioned 1" also, not sure yet. At worst it will be a $60 experiment if I have to buy a new seat foam.

Rick B.
What did you guys do for your shoulder belt routing, did you just run it down the side of the seat and over your shoulder?
bmans vette
Race Director


close
- Member SinceNov 2006
- LocationAthens GA
- Posts:19,445
- Veteran Field #1St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
-
Likes:1,221
-
Liked:353 Times in 307 Posts
Good thread....I have a set for my project.....and I am only 5'7"....

7T1vette
Team Owner


close
- Member SinceJan 2006
- LocationCrossville TN
- Posts:37,637
-
Likes:4
-
Liked:3,117 Times in 2,590 Posts
Just want to caution folks that making a bracket (mild steel and Pop-riveted to seat frame) will allow installation of the seat. But, if you are in a frontal crash (God forbid!), that little bracket will not do the job intended. The mass of your body AND THAT SEAT will rip that puppy right off the floor and the seat will be assisting in throwing you into the steering wheel!!
If you go this route, that bracket needs to be made of hardened steel and it needs to be welded to the seat frame. Also, the floor mounting bolts need to be Grade 5 bolts (minimum). There is a LOT of mass/force trying to break that seat loose from its mountings.
If you go this route, that bracket needs to be made of hardened steel and it needs to be welded to the seat frame. Also, the floor mounting bolts need to be Grade 5 bolts (minimum). There is a LOT of mass/force trying to break that seat loose from its mountings.









