I am possibly buying a 72 coupe. I can see the dimples on the nose which I know is the rivets underneath corroding. The car externally appears to be otherwise in good shape. Is this rivet problem a deal breaker and what other areas should I look for corrosion. The car is just about all original as far as I can tell. It is a base model auto trans. with PS, PB. It has been repainted. Any Ideas?

 

If I remember correctly, dimples are normal, bumps are corrosion.

 

I dont know what to call them, but when you look at the nose you can see raised bumps/dimples. Probably 20 or so of them maybe more.

 

It all depends on what you want the car to be. The dimples are not a structural problem only cosmetic but if you are looking for a car to show there will be some work to be done there that might include a total repaint. It will be difficult to repaint the front cowl section and match the rest of the car.

Check for rust on the frame and the birdcage. Get it up on a lift to check the frame and check closely where the frame rises over the rear wheels that is a very common area for severe rust. Also remove the kick panels and windshield trim to look for rust damage to the birdcage.

 

If they are raised, they are bumps. Dimples go in.

 

What do you guys think a ballpark value is for a car like this assuming there is little or no rust. I would call it good driver condition. The car runs good and the motor has not been rebuilt.

 

Srick,

If you are new to Corvettes and C3's, you owe it to yourself to get any prospective car checked out by a knowledgeable person. Yes, pay them! Bumper C3's are now an average of 40 years old, with possibly several hidden challenges. The worst of these can be hidden rust.

Dunno if you are considering a show car, driver, or project, but this applies to them all! Right now only the rarest C3's are holding their value. People on CF have mucho stories on how this or that was "Bubba'ed" on on their C3 Corvette and the $$ and effort it took to make things right.

With expert advice, your chances of obtaining a solid car go up significantly. My real estate person always tells me you make your $$ when you buy, not when you sell, meaning your best investment is made by carefully selecting the right house. The same goes for Corvettes. (Yeah, yeah, I know: don't buy a Vette as an investment. But the $$ you pour into your Vette is an investment in a vehicle to transport you safely. One should also buy carefully so as to be able to get those $$ back out should he decide to ever sell.)

Keep us posted, Rickman

 

well said Rickman

 

Srick,

There really isn't any way to determine the value without pics or a detailed description. For instance:

1. A numbers matching 72 is worth more $$. Have you checked?

2. Was the repaint the original color, and how recent? C3's with paint less than a year or so can be hiding some flaws, plus you cannot tell how well the repaint will hold up.

3. Does everything work? And I mean EVERY switch and ****: HVAC, headlights, wiper door, radio, windows, etc.

Please don't be offended, but I believe you may be in over your head and possibly headed for some real heartache here. Your description is very vague: "little or no rust, good driver condition, runs good."

Do a search on CF for the C3 buyer's guide. There is a long checklist on there on what to look for when shopping for a C3. Assume NOTHING when acquiring a 39 year old 72!!

Rickman

 

Here’s a few things to look for:
Check for rust in the frame and kick-ups (in front of rear tire, part of frame that goes over the rear suspension) & bird cage. Surface rust is ok. When you lightly tap it with a hammer it should have a metallic ping. If bad rust it will sound more like a dull thud.
The kick-ups are the frame area in front of the rear tires where the frame goes up and over the rear suspension.
The bird cage is the steel frame around the passenger compartment. Look for rust along the windshield pillars, viewed from outside the car. Also pull the kick panels (down on the sides by your feet) inside the car to see what the body mounts look like and if there’s just surface rust or serious rot, if the owner will permit you to.
If you can get it up on a lift and let the wheels hang so you can check the front & rear wheel bearings. Grab the 12 & 6 o’clock positions on the tires and pull back and forth to see if there’s any movement. Front bearings are an easy replacement, but the rear is much more involved and costly to repair.
Check engine for visible oil leaks around the valve covers & oil pan.
Just a few things to look for when you check it out.
The radiator support is another rust prone area to check. Replacements run around 300-350 and are a PITA to remove & replace.
Check headlight operation (and wiper door up to 1972) and that they open fairly quickly. Vacuum system issues are common.
Ask to see all repair & maintenance receipts.
Remember, ALWAYS buy the best car you can afford

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juliet/rearsusp.htm

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11

 

Srick,

Just checked your profile to see if you were somewhere in the Mid Atlantic area. If so, guys like Alan71 and Gregg73 are extremely knowledgeable about C3's.

Welcome to Corvette Forum, by the way!! Unless you are getting a real killer deal on this 72 or know a whole lot more about Vettes than you have indicated, I would hold off for now and learn as much as you can. Merry Christmas to you and your family,

Rickman

 

From what I have checked out so far it is a numbers matching car. Have not checked water pump, alt. or power steering pump etc., but the block, heads, intake, carb, tranny match. It was repainted a few years ago. It is targa blue with blue interior. Interior appears to be original except for the seats, which were recovered. As stated I can see the raised bumps on the nose. Hvac works as wel as all guages except clock. The wiper door does not work. Headlights are a little slow but function. I can post pics this weekend(weather permitting) as I am going to look at it again. Thanks for all of the advice. Believe me you guys wont offend me so fire away!!

 

Hi s,
Some people consider seeing the rivet bumps a good thing.
It's a sign that the hood surround and headlght header bar are 'probably' the ones the car left St. Louis with.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

how do you know the heads are original? did you take off a valve cover?

 

If the car was prepped right for the 1st paint job, this should not be an issue. To remove the rivot bumps will cost you big bucks. Also as I recall from mine, it should have only 10 or 12 raised areas just behind the headlghts. I had my entire car blasted to remove these areas and old cracked paint.

 

What do you mean big bucks? I assume you mean that the car would need bodywork and a full paint job because it would be next to impossible to match the paint?

 

Did someone say 72 Targa blue and matching Blue interior?

 

Yes, please explain?

 

Nevermind, just saw your pic.