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Jack stand placement on 77?

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:04 AM
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Default Jack stand placement on 77?

I will be doing a reprogramming kit on my tranny. I want to place the car on four jack stands. Right now I have two front ones under the sway bar mounts/to frame. The rear on under the frame rail right in front of the rear wheel where the angle plate is welded to it. Are these a safe place before I get underneath? I hate going under a car on jack stands. I also have two jacks placed on either side in the middle under the frame rails as a back up.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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The rears are fine, i was placing mine by the front doors, but the nose weight would not be supported. I will look at the sway bar mount next time i do it.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:16 AM
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Even with a BB, I've never had a problem placing the front jack stands just before the frame rails begin to curve upward and inward. For added security I stack 4 x 4 cribbing under the front and rear crossmembers.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Unless I need to take a wheel off I like to drive up on wheel ramps and then jack the rear up until it is level again and place jack stands on the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Yes, the rears are in the proper place. I use a set of 6T stands from Northern Tool in this location. On the front, I remove the bump stop from the lower control arm and place 3T stands into the recess in the control arm. This locates the stand and supports the front as if car was on it's suspension. I use a set of 2T stands under rear crossmember and a 3T floor jack under front crossmember for backup. The backups are only lightly loaded or raised to within 1/4in. or so from frame. mike...
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by baxsom
Unless I need to take a wheel off I like to drive up on wheel ramps and then jack the rear up until it is level again and place jack stands on the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.
I think this is probably the safest way if you have ramps. The problem with axle stands is that you can tip the car off of them with enough lateral force. If you happened to be underneath when that happened, it would be bad.

If you do go with axle stands only, make sure that you have something wider under the crossmember. Cinder blocks are good. Even a couple of wheel rims offer some protection.

Don't be like this guy:


Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; Dec 26, 2010 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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Thanks!!! Will let you all know how the tranny comes out when finished. I'm not in a rush. The weather is cold here in fl. now. So the epoxy coated cement floor in my garage is a bit cold for me to lay on. I don't have any winter cloths. Haven't had any in 15-20 years now. LOL. I guess it's time, Im getting older and my joints are feeling it.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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Ck. the Northern Tool stands. They were $39.99 and have a very wide base. I use them on their lowest settings. Good ramps are Ok if you do not need to remove tires/suspension. Use a couple of layers of corragated cardboard to insulate you from the cold floor. Also is alot softer. Be careful. mike...

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Just in front of the rear wheels on my 71 where the cross member and side rails connect, there is a little triangular hole. I like to put one tab of the jack stand in that hole, less chance of any sliding.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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I have my 77 up on two pair of ramps. I pulled the fronts up to the stops, chocked them so they did not move and jacked the rear up, sliding the ramps in from the back until the tire hit the stops. The car cannot roll forward or backward and it is not only quite secure, but somewhat higher than when it was on stands alone. You'll appreciate the extra couple inches while you're under there!
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Okay, just finished the tranny. Took me all day. Would have went a little quicker but had one 1/2 inch bolt in a bad location and took me all of almost 2 hours just to remove. Then another 1/2 to put back in and tighten! Here are some pics-















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