Since I am new here, someone must fill me in on the jeep thing.

 

Confident in my own abilities?....I think so.

Adventurous In spending my money needlessly? Nope, I don't think so.


If you will notice my avatar, this is a float bowl off of my 1996 Honda Magna 750. The carbs were leaking fuel, new float bowl gaskets are $120 for 4 rubber performed gaskets. I thought to myself there is no way I was going to pay that kind of money. Let's sit back and think about this for a day or so. did some research found and O-ring supplier --the place gave them to me for free as a sample. I did buy 4 other O-rings while I was there. Four new carbs for this bike were going to run me over $2k








Round O-rings turned into formed O-rings....savings Over $2k!!

Time to fix....2 weeks....

 

The Jeep thing. .posted for entertainment purposes only..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...nions-1149721/

 

I wasn't doubting your abilities, just saying that sometimes discretion is the better part of valor. We all learn from our mistakes, but sometimes that comes at a price.

When I worked as an assembler in a defense plant after getting out of the service, we were never allowed to touch broken fasteners. The forgings were way too valuable to allow an amateur (like me) to mess it up. They had experts who had all the tools and knowledge to get it out.

I've had moderate success with easy outs...like a tiny ignition cover screw in my Harley crankcase...and total disasters...like a broken alternator bracket bolt in my vette cylinder head. Managed to break a large easy out down inside the bolt, then tried drilling it out. Just managed to screw it up a little more. Made a pencil tracing on a piece of paper of the bolt pattern on the head, went and had a machine shop fabricate a steel plate fixture with a boss welded to it (right over the center of the problem hole) that would hold different bushings to center multiple size bits. Bought a number of very expensive hardened drill bits at an aircraft tool supply house and managed to drill everything out, including some of the threads. Cost me over $165 and 6 weeks of messing with it. When the engine was rebuilt, I had the machinist put in a heli-coil. He still found pieces of drill bit and easy out in the bottom of the hole. Gave them back to me in a plastic bag.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

If you post your location, perhaps someone local can help you out.

 

There ya' go. A nice lookin' girl gets online and everyone wants to know her 'location'.

Anyway... if the bolt shank is sheared off flush or below the intake manifold surface, first try the largest E-Z Out you can get into it. Throw lots of PB Blaster on it (shoot it every few hours over a couple of days, at least); don't put so much force on the E-Z Out that it will break, too; if that doesn't work, either tack-weld a big Allen wrench or T-handle rod to it and crank away. Last resort is to remove the intake to get some shank to work with. I think the [liberal] PB Blaster and E-Z Out will get the job done.

You do want a thermostat in the system. What temp you have depends on whether there is a computer in the system that 'looks' for a specific operating temperature to allow the system to work properly. If no computer, put a 180F stat in it. The stat assures that normal operating temp is reached quickly, which reduces engine wear and increases fuel efficiency. 195F stats were installed for "emissions" purposes only; they provide no benefit to the engine.

And, IMO, since the boyfriend already knows everything, you can't tell him anything he doesn't already know so he's no "fun" anymore. Lose him.

 

Mine broke off when I tried to replace my thermostat; probably unusual for that 40-yr old bolt to NOT break in that location. It had really corroded to the thermostat housing as well, which required a lot of twisting to get it off the remaining bolt.

If you want to remove the bolt (vise-grip if some protrudes, ez-out if it doesn't), you can use a torch (even propane will help) to heat up the metal around the broken-bolt (don't set anything on fire), and once that metal is hot, touch a candle to where the threads go into the intake, to wick the wax into the grooves/voids, which can assist as lube when removing the bolt.

If it's flush, though, your best bet might be to drill out the old bolt completely and install a heli-coil thread repair kit. Very easy, and stronger than the original threads.

Good luck! Seeing what you did with those carbs, I'm sure you can handle this job!

 

To the OP
Well, it's been over 3 weeks...care to fill us in on how things have worked out? (common courtesy after asking for help on this forum)

 

The old boyfriend is likely back 'in the picture'...and he knows how to fix it...

 

Just buy a new intake. Same thing happened to me and after all the broken drill bits, four letter words and alot of frustration I was better off getting a new intake.

 

I put a new top on my Jeep after an answer in your Jeep thread last Fall as to which brand was the best fit..... I used the Bestop sail cloth in black on my Sahara and it fit almost as good as the OE top......
thanks,

some good replies up above in regards to the bolt,

good luck.....

 

Wise words. I broke, and impossibly wedged, an "Easy Out" in the hole I drilled into a broken pivot ball stud which held the clutch bell crank / Z bar onto the side of the block on my '68 SS Camaro. I had to PULL THE ENGINE to remove the stupid "Easy Out" and then weld a nut onto the broken bolt for simple removal. Be thankful your broken bolt is accessible!

 

 

How mean