Brake light switch
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 284
Likes: 6
From: Palm PA
Brake light switch
I bought a new brake light switch 3 years ago and it is shot already. I took it apart and the contact areas look burnt. I seem to have a lot of problems with this switch. I saw in a catalog that there is a brake switch capacitor. Does anybody know where it should be. I don't think I have one. Would this cause the switch to burn out? Thanks
68 Vetteman
68 Vetteman
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
The capacitor on the brake switch was not there to help the switch survive. It was there to 'absorb' the electical spike generated when the switch is activated or de-activated. That spike would make a noise in the radio system if it was not suppressed. The capacitor is a "radio noise suppressor".
The brake switch had burnt contacts because the aftermarket switch is "junk"...compared to the original one. GM originally sized such components to handle much more current than it would really see. Now, the aftermarket folks make only was is "required".
See if you can round up a NOS switch or find a suitable replacement from an electrical switch catalog.
The brake switch had burnt contacts because the aftermarket switch is "junk"...compared to the original one. GM originally sized such components to handle much more current than it would really see. Now, the aftermarket folks make only was is "required".
See if you can round up a NOS switch or find a suitable replacement from an electrical switch catalog.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 284
Likes: 6
From: Palm PA
The capacitor on the brake switch was not there to help the switch survive. It was there to 'absorb' the electical spike generated when the switch is activated or de-activated. That spike would make a noise in the radio system if it was not suppressed. The capacitor is a "radio noise suppressor".
The brake switch had burnt contacts because the aftermarket switch is "junk"...compared to the original one. GM originally sized such components to handle much more current than it would really see. Now, the aftermarket folks make only was is "required".
See if you can round up a NOS switch or find a suitable replacement from an electrical switch catalog.
The brake switch had burnt contacts because the aftermarket switch is "junk"...compared to the original one. GM originally sized such components to handle much more current than it would really see. Now, the aftermarket folks make only was is "required".
See if you can round up a NOS switch or find a suitable replacement from an electrical switch catalog.
68 Vetteman
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 284
Likes: 6
From: Palm PA
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: newfane ny
i am disabled and have to have my 16 year old son take out brake switch on my 81 vette.....what holds it in place as i dont know where to get diagram...thanks in advance for anyone who may ne able to help me....im sure i will be frustrated as i used to do everything on my own but since i broke my back thats the end of those things....i can get into care when i am able to drive it but have to like roll out!!!!god bless you all.
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
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From: Huntersville NC
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
I don't remember the '68 switch having a lever. I thought it was same as the later C3's...plunger switch that has just one sheet metal nut that screws onto the threaded plunger shaft. Easy to remove and test with an ohmmeter. Remember that the plunger makes contact when released and breaks contact when the plunger is depressed.
>>>Remove battery cable before working on that switch. 12v. power is going to it even with key out of ignition.
>>>Remove battery cable before working on that switch. 12v. power is going to it even with key out of ignition.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,447
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From: Syracuse NY
I don't remember the '68 switch having a lever. I thought it was same as the later C3's...plunger switch that has just one sheet metal nut that screws onto the threaded plunger shaft. Easy to remove and test with an ohmmeter. Remember that the plunger makes contact when released and breaks contact when the plunger is depressed.
>>>Remove battery cable before working on that switch. 12v. power is going to it even with key out of ignition.
>>>Remove battery cable before working on that switch. 12v. power is going to it even with key out of ignition.
The '68 brake switch was another one year only item.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 26,545
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From: Huntersville NC
Sorry, this is an old thread that was brought up by done4fun who is looking for some help on his 81. Any ideas? I guess best advice to start was to disconnect the battery cable!
i am disabled and have to have my 16 year old son take out brake switch on my 81 vette.....what holds it in place as i dont know where to get diagram...thanks in advance for anyone who may ne able to help me....im sure i will be frustrated as i used to do everything on my own but since i broke my back thats the end of those things....i can get into care when i am able to drive it but have to like roll out!!!!god bless you all.
