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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
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St. Jude Donor '12
Default NEED HELP please,

I am trying to adjust my valve lash. I have my valve covers off. I marked the balancer every 90 degrees. I have the # 1 piston at top dead center (neither valve moved) I am reading "Lars" write up, Put am confused. One push rod is easy to turn and the other is not. It's like that for all cylinders. The write up say's to tighten nut untill you feel a difference in the twirl of the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger. Once you feel the difference, Stop look at where the ratchet is, and turn 1/2 turn. Do you turn more = making it tighter, or back turn to make it 1/2 looser. Also the other pushrod is tight already. Do I loosen it and do the same as the first pushrod. Any insight would be appreciated. I do not want to screw things up. Thanks...
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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1) Start the car
2) Loosen a rocker until it starts to clack.
3) Slowly tighten the rocker until it stops clacking.
4) Slowly tighten 1/2 turn.

Repeat until all valves are adjusted...
Note: Running the car with the valve cover off will
sling oil everywhere. Cardboard can be used a shield.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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When you can not turn it with your fingers you tighten it ½ turn past there. I believe it’s better to be loose than too tight as to tight the valve will not close all the way.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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It's great to see someone trying something new on their machine, but I would strongly recommend that if you've never adjusted valves, whether hydraulic or solid lifters, that you find someone who has the knowledge and has done it before. If you're not sure what you are doing, you can really cause a whole lot of trouble for yourself.
The easiest way to adjust hydraulics is to buy a set of oil clips that go on the rocker arm tips at the push rod end to keep hot oil from squirting on you and the engine compartment. Then, with the engine idling, slowly back off the adjusting nut until the rocker starts to clatter. At this point, start tightening. When the clatter stops, slowly tighten 1/2 more turn and you're done with that valve. Move on to the next until you've done them all. Good luck with whatever way you decide to go.
Duane
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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You need to be certain that you are on the correct 'rotation' of the engine. A four-cycle engine rotates two revolutions for one complete combustion cycle. If you are one revolution off from TDC, nothing will be right.

TDC (on cyl #1) occurs just after the complete closing of the intake valve. Following that, when the piston next reaches the top of the cylinder, the plug will spark and combustion will take place. That part of the cycle contains TDC; the next rotation of the engine does not.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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St. Jude Donor '12
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Thank you gentlman! It's done! Took me a half hour. I found top dead center on # one with BOTH valve's not moving = I believe thats compression stroke. Backed off both nuts, then with my thumb and forefinger twirled the rod at the same time slowly tightning the nut untill I felt friction in the rod. Then tightened 1/2 turn more. Then turned the flywheel 90 degrees and did the same for # 8 and so on. Started up and she's purring. THANKS!!!

Last edited by daanbc; Feb 22, 2011 at 10:52 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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This would have been an excellent question for the tech section.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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Head for the library, find the reference section, and keeping looking until you find the auto section. They are likely to have a Chilton's Auto Repair Manual library edtion. The Chilton's has a step by step procedure for setting valves with the engine off and #1 at TDC. Set eight, turn the crank 360 degrees, and set the other eight.

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