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Chassis work

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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #1  
SMD 1976's Avatar
SMD 1976
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From: Floyds Knobs indiana
Default Chassis work

time to start the removal of the suspension parts. started in the rear of frame. was dreading taking trailing arm bolts out after reading what a pain they are so pb blast all the nuts let set while taking half shafts out shocks etc. back to the dreaded bolts and took cotter key out so far so good then put boxend wrench on bolt and nut getting ready for the big twist on nut to loosen thinking all along i need to get torch out but nut came right off ok what goes. pulled on bolt side it turned took drift punch tapped(not pound) bolt slid out. po must of had work done on trailing arms because they had lube on bolt and washers and arm come out with no prying
looking at pic you can see my first thought
my shop needs some rearranging
this weekend hope to pull engine and trans.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:54 PM
  #2  
my 76 ray's Avatar
my 76 ray
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I thought "you need a bigger shop".
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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Get some support under the front of your body. It looks like the whole nose is drooping as the door gap is very tight low, large top. Rebonding a nose is way too much work if it can be avoided.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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SMD 1976
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From: Floyds Knobs indiana
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markids77 looking at the pic it sure looks that way. wonder if the #4 mounts being bad had anything to do with the gap between rear door and quarter panel? both mounts were bad on top where to body mount rubber sets on the metal there was no support because the hole in metal was as large as the rubber. doesthis happen often to these. can the mount be plated on top and welded or should i completely replace mount wirh a new one ie. cut and weld to frame. the shims were rusted together.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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CTVETTE78
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You can repair the body mount. I cut some pieces of 10ga steel, ground them to fit the contour of the body mount and MIG'd them in.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:16 PM
  #6  
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These bodies (and the frames it turns out) are remarkably flexible. I am a relative rookie in the Corvette field, owning only my current project so far, but this forum has taught me a great deal about these cars. My 1977 is entirely rust free so I cannot comment on what body mount rust might contribute to body sag, but I am certain you want to prop the front end up before your body sits much longer. My project sat on 4 jackstands less engine/trans for at least 8 years before I brought it home and the front door gaps looked much like yours do. Once I finished the suspension rebuild (frame on because no reason to lift), after it was back on wheels for about a month the top door gap on both sides shrank by nearly 3/16 inch, and the lower gap opened up more than 3/32. Driver's side is slightly more at top than passenger... I'll likely try new rubber in the mounts at some point.

If another member does not come forward to assist with how to repair your mounts, try asking in the paint/body section here. Several pros and accomplished hobbyists hang out there and you will get good suggestions there. BTW, your car is in excellent shape compared to some I have seen here... your restoration should be relatively trouble free.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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HerFirstVette
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From: Lansing MI
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
I thought "you need a bigger shop".
The photo itself has an artistic attraction. I'm speaking of the garage pic with the chassis. I like it.

On the other hand it also makes a great magic trick. I showed it to my son and said "hey check out this illusion...if you stare it long enough, eventually you'll see a corvette chassis".

In all seriousness, I really do love the picture and yes, my shop could use some housekeeping.

Last edited by HerFirstVette; Feb 24, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #8  
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Well there you go, a positive answer while I took a phone call in the middle of my response. This forum rocks.
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