tried to replace the switches in the door jambs and the door adjar ones
they undid ok, but i could not get enough movement in the wire to remove them from the body to get to the wire
what do i have to do, remove the kick trim panels/speakers to access the wires?
what is behind the panel in the wheel arch?

also how do the wires attach too the small white part on the switch?

thanks

 

Strange that you don't have enough slack in the wiring. Are you saying none of the switches have slack in the wiring or just the fronts?

I can speak from experience with my 70, think 72 is probably the same.

Removing the kick panels is pretty easy. That would give you plenty of access. Removing the rear quarter trim panel may give you insight into why the wiring is tight but won't give you direct access to the backside of the switch.

On the early models, the switch contact is part of the wiring. The contact is held in place by a tang on the contact which pops out when the contact is seated in the white plastic piece. I've seen the contacts being sold by vendors should your's become damaged during removal.

 

Hi rr,
BB's info is right on.
Here's a picture of the 'tangs' he mentions. Some people have had luck getting the originals out without damaging them. I've always broken them.
Regards,
Alan

This is the rear switch.

 

Here's a link to a vendor who sells the contacts.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

 

if i undo the thread they all only pull out about 1/2"
just enough to see the white part
am missing the pass side adjar switch alltogether
will check the front switches when i do the speakers for the new radio

 

the "tangs" attach to the new plastic on the new switch?

 

The tangs are compressed when pushing the contact into the slot on the white plastic, part of the switch. They will pop out when the contact is in place, preventing the contact from pulling out of the plastic.

It may be possible to remove the originals if a pin of some sort can be found to push down into the slot, compressing the tang so the contact may be pulled out.

 

If you are referring to the door ajar/alarm switches, (the rear switches), it appears that the factory installed the three wires into the switch, screwed the switch into the jamb, and captured the excess wire with a small piece of tape which they placed on the wires as they leave the alarm relays and travel to each switch. You should be able to remove the panels immediately inside of the rear area, which will allow you to pull up the carpet on the bulkhead, and free up about a foot of slack in the wires. Regarding the switches, you should be able to successfully remove the three wire terminals, at each switch, after unscrewing switch, by soaking the white end in WD40, then using needle nose pliers to apply pressure between the end of the brass wire terminal and the plastic holder. When you reinstall the switches, hold the plunger stationary to prevent the wires from twisting, as you snug up the threaded portion. Also, remove the rear wheels, and that little inspection plate in the forward wheel area, so you can attach a "fish wire" through the threaded hole to pull the wires through, if you need, after you separate the wires from the holder. This is done if the switch has broken apart. The three wire ends in the white portion of the switch must all contact evenly, in order to work the alarm function and door ajar light.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Chas

 

I'm installing a new rear wiring harness with new door ajar switches. The old door switches were replacement units and didn't have the "fish hook" wire terminals. I initially inserted the hook to the inside but it didn't catch like I thought it should. After breaking off a couple of the new wire terminals - I determined that I must be doing something wrong.

How do the terminals go in the plastic end ? does the hook go to the outside or inside ? does the hook go all the way thru ?

 

From a foggy, old memory,...I'm thinking the metal terminal is inserted into the plastic/nylon holder with the "open" portion of the terminal towards the center of the assembly. You might need to slightly bend the hooks. Once installed, they are quite snug.
If you can, carefully remove the other side and carefully examine it.
I'm currently 600 miles from my car, so I cannot look.
Regards,
Chuck

 

Hi,
Once the 'tangs' is crimped onto the wires they can only go into the switch in one way. The 'hook' holds the tang from 'backing' out of the switch.
Regards,
Alan

This is the door ajar switch ready to go back in place.

 

Thanks for the input and pics - i will try it again next weekend

 

Evening, all. Like Frank, I have purchased a new rear wiring harness, and plan on replacing all the door ajar switches. Upon trying to remove them by unscrewing them, I get to the point where I feel like I might damage the opening/threading. It appears that the last time the car was painted (>10 years ago), the door switch got painted in the depressed/shut position (perhaps why it doesn't work). Is there a secret to removing the switches (I don't care if I break them, but I don't want to damage the threading that I'll need for the new parts)? As always, thank you.

Vr,
Craig

 

My switch unscrewed pretty easily - i would tape a piece of wire to the old wires so when you pull the old wires into the passenger compartment you can then tape the new wires to the piece of wire to snake them back through the switch hole.

 

Is there any specific order the wires go into the white plastic end on the switch? I have new switches. The old ones are gone so I don't have a pattern. Thanks for your help.
ruken

 

Hi r,
No, it doesn't matter how/where the tangs slip into the switch body.
If you look at the switch carefully and push on the plunger with your finger you'll see how it works.
The plunger just has to have contact with the 'tangs' while it's 'out' (door open), and then have that contact with them broken when pushed in (door closed).
Regards,
Alan