Rear Window Seal
I resealed it with the sticky window rope (I think from 3m) and it hold it in and seals fine, but it looks HORRIBLE! Not to mention that any dirt dust or debris that comes into contact with it sticks to the seal. permanently, and yes, it is very noticable...not impressed with this stuff and i am ready to replace it with something better, any suggestions?
Oh, its a 1976 model.
It's not real hard to use and once in place it will stick.
So far I have removed the glass and am in the process of scraping off the old butyl tape. Getting both the glass and fiberglass surfaces clean is taking more time than I thought. I too bought replacememt 3m tape to reattach the window. Since I have yet to use the new tape if there is a better product I would like to try it.
I was not happy with the looks of the window to begin with, there was an 1/8inch or more gap between the glass and the car body. I see how the butyl tape can create this gap as there is no channel for the tape to sit in. Unless I am missing something I don't think I will be able to get the glass flush against the car body.
Anyone have any pictures of their rear window, if its taped in (not a removeable one) what does it look like at the seal ?
So far I have removed the glass and am in the process of scraping off the old butyl tape. Getting both the glass and fiberglass surfaces clean is taking more time than I thought. I too bought replacememt 3m tape to reattach the window. Since I have yet to use the new tape if there is a better product I would like to try it.
I was not happy with the looks of the window to begin with, there was an 1/8inch or more gap between the glass and the car body. I see how the butyl tape can create this gap as there is no channel for the tape to sit in. Unless I am missing something I don't think I will be able to get the glass flush against the car body.
Anyone have any pictures of their rear window, if its taped in (not a removeable one) what does it look like at the seal ?
When you use the tape, you want to start at the top so the bottom is one nice clean edge and your ends are at the top.
I can take a picture later today if no one post one up.
that way you know the glass has a good seal all the way around. Thanks for the tip about keeping the seam at the top !
If I am thinking the wrong way let me know
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that way you know the glass has a good seal all the way around. Thanks for the tip about keeping the seam at the top !
If I am thinking the wrong way let me know

Once you have the glass up on the tape, spread your fingers out wide and gently push, this will seat the glass.... Now here is a neat trick.. if you put a bright light in the car you can see if the glass is seated properly by looking for a glossy black touch mark. Everywhere the glass is touching the glass you'll see this.. you kind of have to do this to know what I'm talking about.
Willcox
Last edited by ctroadster; Apr 6, 2011 at 10:08 PM.
I have to admit, I'm not a huge fan of the untreated black strip there either. It tends to get dirt on it and look bad.. On the other side of the coin.. it is how the cars are supposed to look.
http://www.73spot.com/bulletin_files/rwindow.pdf
I have a car in my shop right now where the customer used urethane. He pushed in to hard and the window sagged downward. We didn't do this install, but we are removing it and re-installing it for him. One other issue that I see is that he did not get a consistent bead, which may have lead him to push inward more than needed...
But I'll go out on a limb here for the people that want urethane.. When we use Urethane to install on any glass... We cut 1" long sections of the 3M tape sealer and put them on the car past where you would put the urethane... What this gives you is a fixed resting point for the glass and something to help keep the correct spacing. In the case of a back glass if used with some Duct tape it will not sag.
I like Urethane, but on the rear window the straight up ribbon tape is way to easy.
^these instructions are exactly what anyone searching this post would be looking for^
I have since finished my window. I ended up being able to finish it well without the mess of removing the window.
First I cut back the butyl tape with a razor (carefully) and pulled out the excess with a pair of pliers. This removed the dirty tape and brought the tape down about a 1/4 of an inch from the body.
Then I taped off the class and body where I wanted the lines to be, filled the recess with urethane and ran a rounded metal edge along the tape to gather the excess and give a uniform look, just like you would do to caulk a bathtub or window.
If I had practiced on a bathtub or window first, I would not have had to do this:
Because the urethane stuck to the tape so well, it was impossible to peel it off and get the lines i expected, so, once the urethane dried, I took to the razor blade again, and simply cut the urethane flush with the body....it looks great. No dirt, no bulges, just a level, black, waterproof ribbon between the window and the body.
Thanks to everyone who put in their two cents, and best of luck to anyone who finds themselves in the same situation!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-of-pics.html
There is also this article that I read for some inspiration:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/
Good Luck
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-77-coupe.html


















