I'm in the process of rebuilding my door windows and latches on my 71. Now I'm trying to align the side windows and I'm having a heck of a time. Basically, it looks like the front edge of the T-Tops are too high. This is creating a gap at the front of the windows on both the driver and pass doors.

Here you can see my attempt at getting the window aligned. However, the window is tilted back (counter clock-wise) as far as it will go and there is still a gap.



The front and rear pillars seemed to be aligned fine in relation to each other. Meaning, If I rotate the window to line up the forward edge of the glass to the A pillar, the rear glass edge and pillar line up fine too. It's the alignment of T-Top to the top of the window that causing the problems.

As far as I can tell, the body is aligned fine. The doors and gaps look OK so I don't suspect any body mount problems. The car had a frame off done before I got it, so the mounts are in good shape.



While looking at the T-Tops, I've have this gap at the top of the windshield. Is this correct? I've checked my AIM and it looks like the fronts of the T-Tops should almost touch the windshield glass. I'm wondering if poor weather stripping or re-assembly is causing the T-Top to not seat properly. It clamps down OK.





I could use some help with this. Could someone post pictures of how these gap should look?

TIA

 

I Just got my car back from paint and they re aligned my windows it took them a while to do them, its for sure an art, It seems like i have a little gap with my t tops ill have to go look for ya..

 

First, I would get the T-Top gap at the front resolved. You may need to tighten the pressure on the front clamp handles to pull the top closer to the windshield frame.

Next, adjust the windows. There should not be any forward, aft tilt. Also play around with the tilt in-out at the top of the windows until the gaps are closed up.

When I did this I kept all the adjustment bolts snug, but loose enough to move the windows around. It's good to have a helper outside the car to hold the window in the final position when you tighten all the bolts.

Good luck, Glenn

 

Thanks. Yeah, I've spent a fair amount of time adjusting. And I've read the AIM and numerous posts on the procedures, so I'm pretty sure I'm doing it correctly. The problem seem to be that the shape of the T-Top and A pillar doesn't match the shape of the window.

 

When you align the window with the A pillar, is the back window edge parallel to the body/weather strip. If you get this correct, then based on your diagram, the front edge of the T-top needs to be lower.

 

Correct. That's what I'll start tracking down next. Hopefully it's a simple adjustment and not completely FUBAR. I'd still like to see some pics of this area for comparison.

 

I'm currently going through this right now also - and is stinks!

This link helped me - http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...placement.html.

Here are the 5 basic adjustments and the order they should be done in.
Also, make very small adjustments. Every adjustment you make better, will most likely make another adjustment worse - so this will be a repetative process. Also, you may not be able to make some adjustments when the window is rolled all the way up, so you may need to slightly lower the window first.

1 - front of window parrallel to the windshield pillar. These are the two bolts that are on a diagonal towards the center of the door. One mistake I found myself makeing is I wasn't closing the door far enough when I was checking this. If the door is still slightly cracked, the window may look parralel, but when it's closed all the way it's not.

2 - forward/backward adjustment. These are the 2 inside bolts, of the 4 bolts at the top of the door back by the lock pillar. These allow the window to move towards the windshield or back towards the lock pillar. When you adjust these, there is also a bolt directly below them, towards the bottom of the door. This bolt should be loosened when you make this adjustment.

3 - upper stops. These are the 2 bolts at the top of the window tracks. These along with #4 set the adjustment with the top weatherstrip.

4 - inboard outboard tilt. The 4 bolts on the top of the door, two towards the windshield pillar, and 2 towards the lock pillar. When you loosen these, make sure to loosen the bumpers also. Another thing to remember is that when you adjust this, you are also changing how high the window will reach. So when youy adjust these, you will most likely also need to adjust #3.

5 - bottom stops. These determine how low the window will go, they should allow the window to go just below the top edge of the door.


According to the gap you have mentioned, I would think you want to make the #1 adjustment first, that's the one that should affect that gap.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply Mashman. Like I said, I get the alignment procedure and I'm pretty sure I've done it according to specs. I popped the T-Tops off and looked at the trim and the T-Top trim doesn't look right. This may well be the problem as it's elevated about 3/8" or more. I can't tell why it's not flush. I'll take it apart as soon as I can.

Should the front lip of the T-Top trim fit down and behind the windshield trim? I'd still like to see some pics from others for comparison.

 

Hi Duff,
It does look like the header ss trim is not installed correctly. It's front lip should clip down over the edge of the windshield header frame and then the long thin piece of ss trim makes a smooth transition.
Here's a picture or two to show the fit.
Adjusting the door glass is quite involved because it needs to fit in three directions (and still go up and down).
Do you have the AIM? It has a petty good procedure to follow.
Regards,
Alan

 

Ahhh, those pictures explain a lot Alan. Thanks. I think that's the root of my issue. I'll pull the trim and reconciling that area. Yes I have the aim. I spent a good couple hours aligning the windows as best as I could, given the circumstances. Frankly, I didn't find the aligning all that hard. I was just getting frustrated that I couldn't get rid of the gaps. But now I think I know why.

 

Here's ome more pic, similar to Alan's. I had just finished installing new weather strips.
Glenn

 

So, the good news is, the birdcage looks fantastic. Props to the previous owner for having that redone. It looks like brand new. The trim is in pretty good shape too. I think the only problem is they used too much sealer and didn't press it down. Now the sealer goop is rock hard and wont budge. So, the bad news is I'll need to strip everything out and redo it. Actually, the windshield has a crack in it and it's not the original, so it can stand to be replaced.

Tons of goop.






Nice Birdcage.


This is how I keep track of screws.

 

OK, how the heck do I remove the pillar trim? It's glued solid onto the windshield frame. Is that how the factory did it?

 

I spent all weekend on mine so its fresh with me as well...
Even if you lower the front of the edge of the T-Top, I'm still concerned about the front edge of the window and how it meets the w/strip (step #1). When you adjust those 2 diagonal bolts to make the front even with the w/strip pillar up front, it is going to throw off the back of the window (if it is nice and parallel now to the vertical w/strip).
Can you post a close up pic of the rear of the window and how it lines up with the vertical w/strip?
Also, if you do have the windshield replaced, make sure that the replacement is in the same exact position/depth as before, otherwise this can throw off your pillar w/strip's ability to line up right again.
As far as being able to pull off that molding, I didn't have that problem but you might try squirting some adhesive remover (goop-off, 3m adhesive remover) back behind the molding to see if it will loosen things up...Otherwise, pry gently

 

So, bad news. Looks like the windshield frame was replaced in the past but was not positioned correctly. The passenger side is about 3/8" higher than the other side. The pillar length is longer too. I'm having a local restoration shop take a look at it next week. I think (and they think) it can be fixed, it's just a matter of cutting, moving, and welding things back to the correct locations. Stay tuned.

 

Hi Duff,
I'm sorry you had to make ths discovery.
Hopefully the frame troubles can be straightened out and you can move on to more enjoyable tasks.
Regards,
Alan

 

Hi Duff,
how is the end of the story ?

Regards
Frank

 

What a great thread! My windows won't close with the T-Tops on and the doors closed. Now I know how to fix that!

 

No change yet. I've been working with a shop that can do the work of adjusting the windshield frame. But I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It's a big job. I've had some other issues crop up (fuel lines) that are making it un-driveable. Once I get those resolved, I'll let them have at it.

 

Old Story, a early C3 will never be finished

Good luck