DIY - Corvette Top Installation
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
DIY - Corvette Top Installation
Thought I would make a thread on how to install your own C3 convertible top to help the budget minded owners and it seems like a challenge. The thread is going to take a few weeks to complete, since I travel for work and also have to many other hobbies.
Lets start with what you need. Attached is a pic of the basics you will need.
Other items will include:
Wire wheels and bushes to knock off the rust.
Sand Paper.
Rust converter.
Masking supplies.
I purchased all the random bolts and springs from different corvette parts houses.
Step #1
Remove the old top. Pretty simple, just pick a spot and start pulling weather stripping off. The hardest will be around the side windows. Lots of tiny bolts. Please note "Save all the old parts for use later". That includes the top and pads.
Also take lots of pics.
Lets start with what you need. Attached is a pic of the basics you will need.
Other items will include:
Wire wheels and bushes to knock off the rust.
Sand Paper.
Rust converter.
Masking supplies.
I purchased all the random bolts and springs from different corvette parts houses.
Step #1
Remove the old top. Pretty simple, just pick a spot and start pulling weather stripping off. The hardest will be around the side windows. Lots of tiny bolts. Please note "Save all the old parts for use later". That includes the top and pads.
Also take lots of pics.
Last edited by Budman68; Apr 10, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Step #2
Once you get the frame clear of staples and pad, start wire brushing and stripping with sanding disk. I like the ones that screw on to the 90 degree air grinder. Since this is a budget job I will not be replacing the tach strip, mine looked good and there was no reason to remove it. Same with the felt.
Survey the damage.
Looks like the rear bow is going to need some welding.
Also you will probably have some rust under the front header. You will need to decide how far you want to go with those repairs. I had a few small holes that will be covered with weatherstripping, so I will just fill them and cover.
Step #3
Rust treatment. Pretty simple just spray and wait overnight. I like this stuff, but it does not like plastic so tape it off.
Once you get the frame clear of staples and pad, start wire brushing and stripping with sanding disk. I like the ones that screw on to the 90 degree air grinder. Since this is a budget job I will not be replacing the tach strip, mine looked good and there was no reason to remove it. Same with the felt.
Survey the damage.
Looks like the rear bow is going to need some welding.
Also you will probably have some rust under the front header. You will need to decide how far you want to go with those repairs. I had a few small holes that will be covered with weatherstripping, so I will just fill them and cover.
Step #3
Rust treatment. Pretty simple just spray and wait overnight. I like this stuff, but it does not like plastic so tape it off.
Last edited by Budman68; Apr 10, 2011 at 02:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Step #4
Finish coat. I went with the John Deere paint as suggested. It's ok, but coverage is sub-par for my standards. I will try a scratch test after it cures for a few days. If it strong enough I will live with it. Also the finish is not as glossy as I would have preferred.
One more pic before finish coat.
Finish coat. I went with the John Deere paint as suggested. It's ok, but coverage is sub-par for my standards. I will try a scratch test after it cures for a few days. If it strong enough I will live with it. Also the finish is not as glossy as I would have preferred.
One more pic before finish coat.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
This is perfect. You are a couple of weeks ahead of me. Mine should be back from the paint shop in about 2 weeks and the top is my next project. I have all the stuff needed just need to get the car back and some time to do it. This will certainly help out.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Before pics: A couple nights in front of the TV and the bright work is polished. Also discovered the 1968 has it's on special screws that hold the front pins in.
Had the crack TIG welded. I hated to sand down that pretty bead.
At this point you can install the two front peices for weather stripping. Do not install the front screw, you will install it almost last.
Not sure why this tab was not pre-bent, it would help with orientation. Luckly I saved my old springs.
Last edited by Budman68; Apr 28, 2011 at 10:24 PM.
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keep us posted on the progress. P.S. did you end up getting a vinyle top or cloth top ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
A suggestion:
After I cleaned up the latches, I dipped the lever parts in black "PlastiDip" - used for tool handles. Came out real nice - looks like it should be that way!
----------
One of the trickiest parts to me was getting the rear tack strip in the correct place on the top. The problem is that you staple the pads on before you get the top in place - but once the pads are stapled and you get the top in place, it can be a real PITA to move the tack strip. Tough to explain, but I just wanted to alert you to it so when you get to that part, you can slow down and see what's going on between the different pieces.
After I cleaned up the latches, I dipped the lever parts in black "PlastiDip" - used for tool handles. Came out real nice - looks like it should be that way!
----------
One of the trickiest parts to me was getting the rear tack strip in the correct place on the top. The problem is that you staple the pads on before you get the top in place - but once the pads are stapled and you get the top in place, it can be a real PITA to move the tack strip. Tough to explain, but I just wanted to alert you to it so when you get to that part, you can slow down and see what's going on between the different pieces.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
WARNING - YOUR TOP MIGHT NOT BE THE SAME SIZE. MEASUREMENTS MAY BE DIFFERENT ON YOUR CORVETTE. USING THESE MEASUREMENTS MIGHT RESULT IN THE PURCHASE OF NEW PADS AND STRAPS.
I bought the rear of the pad down to 7".
Straps were stapled at approx. 12".
Second bow is stapled at 9" from rear bow.
First bow is stapled at 12" from second bow.
I bought the rear of the pad down to 7".
Straps were stapled at approx. 12".
Second bow is stapled at 9" from rear bow.
First bow is stapled at 12" from second bow.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Front of top to rear bow is 33 1/2". This is with the top not latched and the rear bow at the first click.
Foam cut, marked, and glued in with contact cement.
Front is taped. Need to check and see if I need to staple it also.
Rear pad is stapled and taped.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
