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I don't get why you guys think you need to loosen the rockers? I've bought engines that sat under tarps for 10 years that fired up and worked great for many more years. Seems like overkill to me.
I'd want to leave the coolant in the engine. If you remove it, I'd be more concerned about seals and gaskets drying up and that could be a lot more work taking care of that. It's not going to eat out your radiator because it's also a rust inhibitor. Straight water would be another matter. Getting a lot of opinions that's for sure...
I don't get why you guys think you need to loosen the rockers? I've bought engines that sat under tarps for 10 years that fired up and worked great for many more years. Seems like overkill to me.
The idea is that some of the springs will be fully compressed, some will be partially compressed, and others not compressed at all, and they will stay that way for 3 years. Some people believe this is really bad, others don't. I don't claim any expertise here, but it seems like a spring that was made to compress and release say a quarter of a billion times in its life wouldn't be bothered much by being compressed for 3 years straight and then going back to business as usual.
Every fall there are threads about people's opinions on winter storage, and some people profess the need to do all kinds of things to their cars to store them for 4-5 months. My procedure for a 5 month storage is to fill the gas tank and put the car cover on it and it's good to go. If I was going to store for 3 years, I would put a fuel stabilizer in the tank, and I would think about fogging the carburetor. I would also do what I can to prevent mice infestation, but that would be it.
I read some stuff about the Marvel Mystery Oil and fogging (mostly boat forums)...most people just poor it down the carb until you start seeing a puff of smoke or engine starts to slightly sputter (read both). Does that sound like a good idea and if so, I'm guessing that negates the need to pull spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinder that way. Any opinions on this? I guess my plan would be to pull the fuel line to the carb once it's full and run it dry while adding the MMO.
I vote for the Car Jacket. http://www.carbag.com/support/jacket_technology.html
The car will come out of the bag just like the day you zipped it up. Disc brake rotors shiney, painted surfaces clean and sparkling ready to cruise.
However, the bag itself won't keep those little mice bast*rds out. One year (out of about 20) with the jacket, two critters chewed their way through the bottom, up into the engine compartment, down the air circulation ducts, and party time in my interior. They couldn't get out and starved to death but deficated all around my interior. Hope the death was slow and painful.
I used Bounce dryer sheets the last couple years. No critters, (but none the first 17 either!)
Just park it and quit worrying. Three years? Not that long. It will be fine.
Fill it up, put some staybil in, and store it in a dry place. My car sat for 10 years in storage and is fine (fine with a list of small random stuff that has to get done). You may want to put some moth ***** under it to prevent fury things from calling it home............
I vote for the Car Jacket. http://www.carbag.com/support/jacket_technology.html
The car will come out of the bag just like the day you zipped it up. Disc brake rotors shiney, painted surfaces clean and sparkling ready to cruise.
However, the bag itself won't keep those little mice bast*rds out. One year (out of about 20) with the jacket, two critters chewed their way through the bottom, up into the engine compartment, down the air circulation ducts, and party time in my interior. They couldn't get out and starved to death but deficated all around my interior. Hope the death was slow and painful.
I used Bounce dryer sheets the last couple years. No critters, (but none the first 17 either!)
Jim
Thanks for your insight. I'm mulling over the bag below that supposed to keep the vermin out. Now I don't know.
Maybe im wrong but i cant help but thing that your making to big a deal of this!
Before i got my car it was stored 5 years in a 3 wall barn in rainy France and it was absolutely fine! No rust whatsoever, all i did was change the oil, filter and coolant and it was fine! Started like it was put there the previous day!
Haven't used them yet....but if worried about flat spots on tires.....maybe try the flat stopper ramps...they are supposed to stop that problem over a long period of time-Pete
I just got my 81 out of storage. It was in storage for 10 years in my uncles heated barn/toy box. I may have forgot about the old girl being out their but that's what getting maired and divorce dose to a guy. Anyhow mice ate my car alive. And I would defiantly recommend something to preserve the weather striping. all mine is shot along with my interior.
My car sat from 1985 to 2004, when I bought it. Not good, no matter what was or was not done before storage. The varnish inside the engine was unbelievable. Leaking water pump, leaking heater core, broken piston rings, stuck lifters, wiped cam, oil and fluid leaks everywhere. Things went downhill for the next few years and I'm finally getting them all sorted out. Time, humidity, rodents and total lack of use are not your car's friends. That is why car museums have air conditioning, curators and mechanics to keep everything running and rust-free.
My guess is 3 years will not be a big deal. I'm planning to put mine in non-climate controlled storage next spring for about the same amount of time. I plan to remove the battery, drain the carb bowl for sure and fill the tank with non-ethanol gas and fuel stabilizer. Ethanol attracts moisture like crazy. The car needs new tires anyhow...they are dated 1999. Moth *****, breathable car cover, good startup procedures upon return to the scene of the crime and hope for the best.
Revival: finally back to America and can get my car (a year later than I originally thought, but that's how it goes!). Any good pre-start tips other than put stuff back together? I didn't drain any fluids, used stabil, fogged engine, disconnected battery, took off carb, sealed intake and mouse proofed the entire thing to the best of my ability. I plan on replacing all fluids, but will it be good enough to use current fluids for a short duration until I can get the car to my new home (still have to transport the car from co to fl)? Any major checks I should do/specific things to look for? Thanks guys, good to be back to America and vettes!