Due to another move overseas, I have to store my 71 for 3 years...no ability for someone to drive it here and there, unfortunately. I have a storage unit reserved in a pretty dry climate (Colorado). I've never stored it longer than about 6 months, so have a few questions:

- I plan on leaving the gas tank full with Stabil to prevent water getting in. Does that sound good?

- The oil, trans fluid and rear diff fluid have all been changed within the last 4 months and the car only driven about a 100 miles on that fluid. Should I drain it all or leave it all filled to keep parts coated? Not sure if it's better for the engine, trans, etc. to sit in fluid or be dry.

- Should I drain the coolant out of the radiator?

- I've heard about putting the car on jack stands to alleviate pressure on the suspension and prevent flat spots on the tires. To be honest, I'll just replace tires in 3 yrs if I have to, not a big deal. But, my biggest concern about putting the car up on jack stands for that long is body flex, stressing the frame, etc. Are those aformentioned things really worth taking pressure off the suspension?

- I also am planning on sealing the exhaust and carb w/ plastic to prevent moisture, as well as emptying the carb of gas. Comments?

Thanks for all the help guys and please let me know what other tips you have for long term car storage.

 

the best tip ever is to drive it to cali and ill watch it for you for the 3 years, promise to drive atleast a few times a month, was wax, and talk to when ever needed.
Thats what the corvette family is for..=)

 

Haha, while I appreciate the offer, CA is a bit too far!

 

Dry climate is good but consider putting plastic down especially if on gravel and even on concrete as I've seen concrete sweat.

 

OOOO KKKK I guess I can come get it for you and bring it back to ya...

Good luck and be safe...

 

I've never understood the 'pressure on the suspension' fear. People drives cars year-round for decades with no damage. Why would a car in storage need to be treated differently?

 

I like the plastic sheet under the car idea. I would throw in some dryer sheets under the seats and in the rear compartments to keep mice away. Maybe put some on the cement on the inside of each tire and on top of the engine compartment. Mice can be a LOT worse menace to a car than you think. I've seen them practically ruin a car interior. Imagine if they made a giant cozy nest inside your frame with all that mice pi$$ rotting it away? How to keep them out of the heater box is also important, and off the top of the engine. I suspect that if you put the car up on jackstands with a 6" piece of tin between the jackstands and the frame that would help keep them out, plus preserve your tires, save you $400 when you get back, maybe deflate to 25lbs. If you put one jack stand under the front cross member it would probably keep it from drooping. You can use your doors as a gauge. I think father time will take care of any gas in the carb, but I guess it won't hurt to drain. I guess if it were me, I'd put a few squirts of oil in the cylinders and crank a few seconds. I would definitely leave the coolant in the system and the oil too. The water pump gasket will dry out and you'll end up replacing it, which you probably won't want to do. I have cars that sit for years and I leave all fluids in them, no problems. The other thing I would do is to stuff a piece of steel wool into each of the exhaust pipes before you cover with plastic, again to keep mice from building nests in your mufflers (which could cause them to "puff" up when you start the car). Consider some collision only insurance on it for storage. I called up Adam at National Corvette Insurance and he quoted me like $30 a year for collision only insurance for a car that will be in locked storage and not on the road (my house, though). So, if some thieves or a tornado comes along...

Goodl luck,

Mark G

 

While you're at it you might want to put some Sta-Bil Fogging Oil to good use. And, I'd loosen up the rockers after the engine's last run. Some more tips here...

http://www.goldeagle.com/pdf/Storing...Muscle_Car.pdf

 

Thanks for the help guys. I was reading more elsewhere that agreed with Mike's thoughts...cars are meant to have pressure on the suspension their whole lives. I think I'm going to forget about putting the car on jack stands. If I have to buy new tires in 3 yrs, so be it.

I haven't seen the storage unit yet (my wife set it up as I just got back from my last overseas assignment...yes, 4.5 years of no vette, dammit!), but am hoping it's all concrete seam to seam minus the door and there will be almost no way for mice to get in. So far what I've gathered from here and other sites is dryer sheets/mothballs in the interior as well as around the engine bay, steel wool in exhaust pipes and mouse poison of some sort around the outside of the car (maybe at least kill them before they can get to the car). Any other anti-mice ideas?

Skunk, I've heard the term flogging, but don't know what it is. Also, just curious, why loosen the rocker arms? Just relieve some pressure?

Thanks again for all the help and keep the good ideas coming!

 

Is there anyone (that you trust) who can 'exercise' the car every few months? Fire the engine and let it idle till warm, then drive it a few miles to work the tires/suspension/driveline? That's all it really needs to keep it in good working condition. If not, your plan is pretty solid...full tank with some Stabil; air the tires up a few pounds higher; keep in a relatively dry environment. I would not 'seal' the exhaust system; if the environment is not damp, the exhaust won't deteriorate during storage.

 

A lot of good ideas given. Here's what I would do.

I would not drain the coolant or any other fluid.

I would not seal the exhaust or carb.

No jack stands.

Check tire pressure and increase to max pressure.

Top off with fresh gas and add a gas stabilizer.

I would put a down heavy gage plastic sheet on the floor.

I would disconnect the battery.

I would cover the car with a light breathable car cover.

I would keep the windows down.

 

Here is an option that hasn't been mentioned yet.
I have used the Car Jacket or Car Bag for years with good results.

Fuel Fresh in the tank.
Check anti freeze.
Add air to the tires.
A few dryer sheets spread around .
I would get the 10lb. desiccant container to suck up any moisture.
Car cover or old bed sheets to cover the car.
Disconnect the battery.
No need to block exhaust or carb, no need to fog the engine when using the bag.
Zip up the bag and let it sit.
When you open it it will look just like it did when you put it away.
Good luck on your deployment and bring em home safe.

 

how about Oklahoma

 

Leave all the fresh oils in the car. Leave the antifreeze in the car. Keep it in a climate controlled garage. Have someone start it now and then and take it for a drive around the block. Keep a battery tender on the battery. Tank full with Stabil added. Bounce dryer sheets placed every where and replaced now and then. Car cover
Or;
All new fluids, pull the battery, stabilize the full tank of gas, place on jack stands in a climate controlled storage with a car cover.
I thought people placed their cars on jack stands so the tires didn't get flat spots on them from sitting in one place for too long. More of a bias ply tire thing I believe.

 

I think I'd drain the gas instead. I have seen cars with gas in them that long, but if you have a fuel pump failure, it will flood the engine. And depending on the failure, could leak on the ground.

A '71 still has the big gas tank opening, so after you drain it, miss in some oil spray inside the tank to reduce any rusting.

If you are not bagging it, then put it up on jack stands to allow more air to flow around and less likely to rust the underside. But you can put the jacks on suspension parts so that weight is still on the springs.

I think I'd drain the coolant, too, rather than let it possibly oxidize the radiator any.

 

Fogging-in oil is good but I would be tempted to use Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and rotate the crank a few times without firing. Check the history of that product.

 

Strange how you're getting so many differing opinions here. Since you're talking three years, I'd put it away with everything warmed up to operating temperature, drain all the gas and pull the battery. If possible, get all the gas out of the carb fuel bowl. You can do this by either disconnecting the fuel line and running it dry, or maybe sucking it out through the carb vent tube. I wouldn't worry to much about the battery, as when you do get back, just buy a new one.

 

Unless you are 'bagging' the car, I wouldn't drain the gas tank. An empty tank will still get some air circulation and unless you stick a dessicant in the empty tank, moisture can cause internal surface rusting. If so, that contamination could cause you later concerns. A full fuel tank will prevent that.

 

Just park it and quit worrying. Three years? Not that long. It will be fine.

 

Thought I'd take the time to post a few things I've picked up thru experience with very long term storage.

Rust never sleeps and doesn't need very much moisture at all to do it's dirty work over time. Seal or protect everything you can and put some desiccant in the car.

Whatever stabilizer you might choose to trust, I'd either fill or empty the gas tank, but would run the carb dry regardless. Carbs don't take well to varnish.

Fogging oil sprayed on and down the carb as it runs dry and then in each cylinder will leave some needed protection behind (do re-install the plugs w/anti-seize). Not a bad idea to fog some on seals and other things under the hood commonly susceptible to rust/corrosion too. Google "fogging oil" and "boat winterizing"...

Loosening the rockers releases all of the valve springs to installed height and closes off all of the cylinders (do button evertying back up). Be sure to leave notes in the car about this and any other such things you do.

IMHO you want fresh oil and lube in everything practical when you put it away, and I'd also flush/bleed the braking system to eliminate contaminants from sitting in your calipers.

It's no big deal for the short term, but after three years I would change the oil again and thoroughly prime the oil pump before turning the engine over upon return. And, I'd turn it over by hand before doing so with the starter so you have a chance to sense anything that might be wrong.

Remove the battery and place it on a block of wood.

However you choose to prepare, do your best and you shouldn't loose any sleep over it. Best of luck!