Storing your Vette (primarily for winter time)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
From: Willoughby Hills OH
Storing your Vette (primarily for winter time)
I know I am getting way ahead of myself with this one, but got to see what my plans are to get a decent budget going.
I have a neighbor friend who stores his nice cars in a separate 9 car garage, and that is where I will store my vette.
I will get a nice cover (are $50 ones really that bad?). That is all I have planned for now. It will sit for maybe 5 or 6 months.
I've heard some people remove their tires and put the car on jack stands, does that really help if only for 5 or 6 months? Should I do this, or should I just move the car slightly every other month to prevent the tires from flattening in some areas.
Should I do anything with the current fluids, clean them, drain them, etc. What about the battery? Take off and tender it to a charger?
Thanks guys! I am loving this summer since I got my 78 vette, you all have helped me soo much!
I have a neighbor friend who stores his nice cars in a separate 9 car garage, and that is where I will store my vette.
I will get a nice cover (are $50 ones really that bad?). That is all I have planned for now. It will sit for maybe 5 or 6 months.
I've heard some people remove their tires and put the car on jack stands, does that really help if only for 5 or 6 months? Should I do this, or should I just move the car slightly every other month to prevent the tires from flattening in some areas.
Should I do anything with the current fluids, clean them, drain them, etc. What about the battery? Take off and tender it to a charger?
Thanks guys! I am loving this summer since I got my 78 vette, you all have helped me soo much!
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: Millstone Twp NJ
I am sure others will chime in here, but I would definitely do the following:
1. Put a battery tender on the battery
2. Run your Vette for 15 minutes at a fast idle which will ensure that all engine parts are coated with oil.
3. Put a good fuel stabilizer in the gas tank
4. Get the weight off the tires, they will get flat spots...I know from experience.
5. Make sure the cover you buy has a soft underside to it, to keep it from scratching your vettes surface.
6. Leave the parking break off so the cable will not seize up.
7. Check with your Insurance Agent, you may be able to reduce your coverage to fire and theft during the storage period and save some bucks.
8. Giving your Vette a final waxing before storage is also a good idea.
9. Finally changing the oil prior to and after storage couldn't hurt.
Hope this helps-Pete
Since this question has been brought up, Can anyone answer whether "Flat Stopper" ramps are a good alternative to putting a Vette up on blocks
1. Put a battery tender on the battery
2. Run your Vette for 15 minutes at a fast idle which will ensure that all engine parts are coated with oil.
3. Put a good fuel stabilizer in the gas tank
4. Get the weight off the tires, they will get flat spots...I know from experience.
5. Make sure the cover you buy has a soft underside to it, to keep it from scratching your vettes surface.
6. Leave the parking break off so the cable will not seize up.
7. Check with your Insurance Agent, you may be able to reduce your coverage to fire and theft during the storage period and save some bucks.
8. Giving your Vette a final waxing before storage is also a good idea.
9. Finally changing the oil prior to and after storage couldn't hurt.
Hope this helps-Pete
Since this question has been brought up, Can anyone answer whether "Flat Stopper" ramps are a good alternative to putting a Vette up on blocks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
I am sure others will chime in here, but I would definitely do the following:
1. Put a battery tender on the battery
2. Run your Vette for 15 minutes at a fast idle which will ensure that all engine parts are coated with oil. I guessing you'll be driving the car to the garage, so this is a moot point.
3. Put a good fuel stabilizer in the gas tank You can, I never bother and have never had a problem
4. Get the weight off the tires, they will get flat spots...I know from experience. Radials don't flat spot like bias ply tires use to. I just raise the pressure up to the max (35 psi?)
5. Make sure the cover you buy has a soft underside to it, to keep it from scratching your vettes surface.
6. Leave the parking break off so the cable will not seize up. If the cable is going to sieze up, it will whether the brake is on or not, but at least the parking brake won't be stuck on.
7. Check with your Insurance Agent, you may be able to reduce your coverage to fire and theft during the storage period and save some bucks. Don't do this until you check with your DMV. They may require you to relinquish your plates.
8. Giving your Vette a final waxing before storage is also a good idea.
9. Finally changing the oil prior to and after storage couldn't hurt. I don't change it prior to storage, only after. Never had an issue.
Since this question has been brought up, Can anyone answer whether "Flat Stopper" ramps are a good alternative to putting a Vette up on blocks
1. Put a battery tender on the battery
2. Run your Vette for 15 minutes at a fast idle which will ensure that all engine parts are coated with oil. I guessing you'll be driving the car to the garage, so this is a moot point.
3. Put a good fuel stabilizer in the gas tank You can, I never bother and have never had a problem
4. Get the weight off the tires, they will get flat spots...I know from experience. Radials don't flat spot like bias ply tires use to. I just raise the pressure up to the max (35 psi?)
5. Make sure the cover you buy has a soft underside to it, to keep it from scratching your vettes surface.
6. Leave the parking break off so the cable will not seize up. If the cable is going to sieze up, it will whether the brake is on or not, but at least the parking brake won't be stuck on.
7. Check with your Insurance Agent, you may be able to reduce your coverage to fire and theft during the storage period and save some bucks. Don't do this until you check with your DMV. They may require you to relinquish your plates.
8. Giving your Vette a final waxing before storage is also a good idea.
9. Finally changing the oil prior to and after storage couldn't hurt. I don't change it prior to storage, only after. Never had an issue.
Since this question has been brought up, Can anyone answer whether "Flat Stopper" ramps are a good alternative to putting a Vette up on blocks
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: Millstone Twp NJ
Flat stopper ramps have been advertised as a way of preventing flat spots on tires....just google the name and you will get detailed information. Just wondering if anyone bought these and had good results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
From: Willoughby Hills OH
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 6
From: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
Well I've been storing a Corvette for the winter, in an unheated garage, for about 33 years now.
This is what I do now and it works:
I have used the Car Jacket or Car Bag for years with good results.
Fuel Fresh,(stabilizer), in the tank and run the engine to get it circulated.
Change oil if dirty. Sometimes I don't change mine if I haven't put very many miles on it.
Check anti freeze.
Add air to the tires.
A few dryer sheets spread around.
I would get the 10lb. desiccant container to suck up any moisture.
Car cover or old bed sheets to cover the car.
Disconnect the battery, ( I have a switch), and attach Battery Tender
No need to block exhaust or carb, no need to fog the engine when using the bag.
No need to jack it up. Mine has sat on the original springs for 39 years and is still right on factory height.
Zip up the bag and let it sit.
There will not be any new rust in the spring.
When you open the bag the car will look just like it did when you put it away.
Just like a time capsule.
I store both my cars this way.
Works for me.
One thing I have learned is, if the garage is not heated and you don't use the bag, you will get new rust guaranteed.
Here is what the bags look like.
This is what I do now and it works:
I have used the Car Jacket or Car Bag for years with good results.
Fuel Fresh,(stabilizer), in the tank and run the engine to get it circulated.
Change oil if dirty. Sometimes I don't change mine if I haven't put very many miles on it.
Check anti freeze.
Add air to the tires.
A few dryer sheets spread around.
I would get the 10lb. desiccant container to suck up any moisture.
Car cover or old bed sheets to cover the car.
Disconnect the battery, ( I have a switch), and attach Battery Tender
No need to block exhaust or carb, no need to fog the engine when using the bag.
No need to jack it up. Mine has sat on the original springs for 39 years and is still right on factory height.
Zip up the bag and let it sit.
There will not be any new rust in the spring.
When you open the bag the car will look just like it did when you put it away.
Just like a time capsule.
I store both my cars this way.
Works for me.
One thing I have learned is, if the garage is not heated and you don't use the bag, you will get new rust guaranteed.
Here is what the bags look like.
Last edited by garage-ghost; Jul 14, 2011 at 09:58 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
I'll add my 2 cents.
I cannot understand why anyone would need to change the fresh oil they just put in before it was stored?
Here's the reason why I put in fresh oil (and filter) before winter storage: this tip came via Harley-Davidson. They claim that used oil has acid in it that could eat away bearing material over those long winter months.
Fill your gas tank all the way to the top to avoid condensation. (Ask me how I know this when my tank sprung a pinhole on Christmas Eve.) Since I have a carb, I also remove the electric fuel pump relay and run the carb dry, including the accelerator pump(s).
Then I remove all spark plugs and spray in some Sta-Bil Fogging oil...another attempt to prevent condensation. Not in the dead of winter but in those up-and-down temp days of early spring.
Another recommendation: if there is any chance of rodent infestation...open a box or two of moth ***** in the interior. The little critters seem to dislike the smell.
As for the car cover, I think if your car will be stored indoors a cheap cotton cover to keep off dust will suffice. Those expensive ones are meant to protect from the ravages of sun and weather out of doors.
I cannot understand why anyone would need to change the fresh oil they just put in before it was stored?
Here's the reason why I put in fresh oil (and filter) before winter storage: this tip came via Harley-Davidson. They claim that used oil has acid in it that could eat away bearing material over those long winter months.
Fill your gas tank all the way to the top to avoid condensation. (Ask me how I know this when my tank sprung a pinhole on Christmas Eve.) Since I have a carb, I also remove the electric fuel pump relay and run the carb dry, including the accelerator pump(s).
Then I remove all spark plugs and spray in some Sta-Bil Fogging oil...another attempt to prevent condensation. Not in the dead of winter but in those up-and-down temp days of early spring.
Another recommendation: if there is any chance of rodent infestation...open a box or two of moth ***** in the interior. The little critters seem to dislike the smell.
As for the car cover, I think if your car will be stored indoors a cheap cotton cover to keep off dust will suffice. Those expensive ones are meant to protect from the ravages of sun and weather out of doors.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
If that were the case, what stops this "acid" from eating away bearing material during the long summer months?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Perhaps the engine heat from operation? All I know is I used to treat my vette to fresh oil and filter at the start of the driving season. Now I do it before I put it to bed for the winter. I don't see how it could hurt.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 5
From: South Dakota
In addition to the above, Go to your marine store and by a fogging spray. I run the engine and spray it into the carb until the exhaust starts to smoke like a bug spray machine and shut it off. When you start it again it will smoke like crazy, so don' t be alarmed. Do this outside if you can.
Also, when using stabilizer in the fuel, make sure you run the car long enough to get it into the carburetor too.
Clean the car inside and out to avoid anything that may leave behind unwanted odors. I also use the dryer sheets in my cars for mice and musty smells.
Also, when using stabilizer in the fuel, make sure you run the car long enough to get it into the carburetor too.
Clean the car inside and out to avoid anything that may leave behind unwanted odors. I also use the dryer sheets in my cars for mice and musty smells.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
I'm not saying it would ever hurt anything. I'm saying that I think your reasoning is flawed.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 55
From: Philadelphia PA
Race Ramps Flatstoppers versus Wheel Cribs
I sell a lot of Flatstoppers. In fact it's the single most popular Race Ramps product that we have sold in the last year. I have never had a customer complaint and a few customers have placed repeat orders for more Flatstoppers.
I was unable to find any independent reviews online either negative or positive.
Using Flatstoppers is more convenient than using jack stands for Winter storage. Some of my customers store their cars on a set of RR-WC-8-2 adjustable wheel cribs. They are not as convenient as Flatstoppers, but, they costs less.
I was unable to find any independent reviews online either negative or positive.
Using Flatstoppers is more convenient than using jack stands for Winter storage. Some of my customers store their cars on a set of RR-WC-8-2 adjustable wheel cribs. They are not as convenient as Flatstoppers, but, they costs less.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Jul 14, 2011 at 12:39 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: concord ohio
one thing I have always done, open the doors to the "half" closed position, release the hood latch and open the 'T" top handles. It will keep the weather stripping from compressing all winter. Provided it is a rodent free environment.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
In July? Really?
I fill the tank, put it in the garage, put the cover on it and walk away. If it sits for a couple of months with no chance to drive it at all (like mine did from 11/29/10 to 2/26/11), I'll put the battery tender on it at some point. I don't use fuel stabilzer. The manufacturer doesn't even recommend it unless storing for more than 6 months, I have never stored mine for more than 4-5. My tires have never noticably flat-spotted.
I fill the tank, put it in the garage, put the cover on it and walk away. If it sits for a couple of months with no chance to drive it at all (like mine did from 11/29/10 to 2/26/11), I'll put the battery tender on it at some point. I don't use fuel stabilzer. The manufacturer doesn't even recommend it unless storing for more than 6 months, I have never stored mine for more than 4-5. My tires have never noticably flat-spotted.