Scottd

My last post was how my turn signals stopped working......I spent every waking moment sat and sunday under that dash. The fuse was good, the relay was good, the switch was good. 12 volts from the hot side, continuity from the open side....nothing made sense. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but when you powered it up, no flasher. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for some crazy short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips were tarnished. No amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity. I had to replace the terminals (a whole other search for parts unto itself) but Ive FINALLY got it all working again.

wgarneau

I'm glad you did - and glad I followed along so that the next time I see something I can't explain I've got another place to look!

centralcalvette

Thanks for the update, yes, corrosion can cause difficult to solve problems. Remember that connectors (spades etc) can invite invisible corrosion. The electrons literary have to jump the gap from one connector to the other, corrosion prevents good conductivity. Glad you found it.

Scottd

Its been a tense 3 days around my place. I get obsessed with a problem like this. My fingers are torn to ribbons from messing around under that dash, my neck hurts and my back is sore. Im just really happy I found it, as I was about to just wire in my own separate circuit.

thatcorvetteguy

It's working, thats good news.

Lupigiato

Scottd, since you and I had been commiserating on your original thread, I'm hoping I can be as successful as you find my issue PDQ! Do you have pictures of the fuse panel corrosion you can post? Looking @ mine, they all look rusted, but haven't gotten to the point of pulling the panel off the firewall for closer inspection. What exactly did you replace and where did you find the parts?

7T1vette

I'm really glad that you didn't turn into "Bubba"....

929nitro

You must have done something seriously wrong. This kind of problem usually always turns into a while I was at it and next you know a body off resto . Glad you got it fixed.

AGVI

Scottd

I could barely fit under there, nonetheless take pictures. The Fuse for my signals has two sides. The left had red coming in, the right had 2 blue coming out. The red side was a double terminal that also supplied power to my instrument cluster. (I know, this IS useless without pics) Anyways, the terminals were non existent, but I found a 'fuse block replacement' at pep boys for 4.99 that the EXACT terminals I needed. (Chevy dealer looked at me cross eyed!) If yours are corroded, try to find a way to clean them off first, as this job was MISERABLE.

...Roger...

Glass tube type fuses or Little fuses ?

69Vett

post the replacement fuse block info. others will need them.
brand part# should be on the receipt. thanks !

Lupigiato

This doo hickey?
Dorman - Conduct-Tite Fuse Block - Glass Holds 4 Glass Fuses
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...GRP2020A_____#

mrvette

How I tell you all what the deal is, ....GM used steel fuse holding clips for the mechanical action of holding the fuse.,.....now they used brass crimped on the copper wire to then be riveted to the fuse clips and then the bakelite base was in between....I forget the exact arrangement, but you had dissimilar metals in direct contact....

it was inside, but if exposed to excess moisture over years, they fail....

the typical example is the higher amp draw fuses get hot and actually melt the solder joints INSIDE the fuse...from HEAT at the bad connection from fuse to CLIP.....

BTDT, proved it more than once, pants down caught it....

and of course the heat can ALSO be generated at the base of the clip from joining with the brass/copper....

IMO, replace the thing with a modern plastic fuse holder, and use those modern fuses.....

you want reliability, that's IT.....