Corvette total restoration
Last edited by mikeyc123456&maybe7; Sep 9, 2011 at 12:33 PM.







Terry


I farmed out the valve job but rebuilt the engine myself. I rebuilt the TH400.
Bodywork is all me.
Paint is me so there is no one else to blame. Stock acrylic lacquer. 10 footer, but not all that bad for a beginner.
Interior is me.
T-arms and bearings were farmed out. Shipping to, turnaround time, and getting back was still quicker than I could have done it. The work was also guaranteed.
I did the brakes. Exhaust is me. Stock.
Firestone did the tires.

I used original parts where ever possible, but also have a few reproduction pieces and (gasp) some Impala and Nova junkyard parts which were also used on Corvettes. Late production interior door grab handles are correct, but came from a Camaro.
The car is stock with the exception of the 350hp chrome valve covers I added (Blatant bling. No excuses.) and the bubble tail light lenses (I love those).
Original stamped steel 300hp valve covers and tail light lenses are safely stored away.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Sep 9, 2011 at 03:05 PM.

I think given enough time and perseverance almost anyone can do a complete restoration. Some things like machine shop services and chrome plating need to be out-sourced, but much of the rest of what needs to be done can be learned by doing.
I believe restoring original parts WHENEVER possible is necessary because so often the reproduction parts are of poor quality, not quite right for your year car, or simply too expensive.
It's very important to take pictures while you're taking things apart, (so you'll have some help putting it back together), and to develop a system for controlling the zillion parts and fasteners that make up a Corvette!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I think given enough time and perseverance almost anyone can do a complete restoration. Some things like machine shop services and chrome plating need to be out-sourced, but much of the rest of what needs to be done can be learned by doing.
I believe restoring original parts WHENEVER possible is necessary because so often the reproduction parts are of poor quality, not quite right for your year car, or simply too expensive.
It's very important to take pictures while you're taking things apart, (so you'll have some help putting it back together), and to develop a system for controlling the zillion parts and fasteners that make up a Corvette!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's amazing how many little screws and little parts you take off---put in little zip locks--and then cant remember which ones go where.
WRITE on the bag where they go. Don't trust your memory or you'll have a lot of left over little pieces
Last edited by BTGRN75; Sep 10, 2011 at 05:34 AM.
You're SO RIGHT!
If you take the car completely apart there should be literally hundreds of bags and small boxes of labeled parts and fasteners.
If you don't do that, the job can easily become overwhelming. Then an ad appears that says For Sale, Lost Interest.
Here's a picture of the window mechanism inner parts from just one door.
Since everyone's definition of 'a complete restoration' varies wildly, many 'restored' doors are never taken apart.
It's all in fun!
Regards,
Alan






I did all of the grunt work myself, like disassembly, body prep and some mechanicals and re-assembly, and interior. I outsourced the paint, engine machine shop work, chrome work and had alot of help from good friends who were bribed with beer, pizza and lobster rolls. I tried to stay with original parts but had no problem finding good repros.
When you find yourself losing steam, take a break and come back with renewed enthusiasm. It's worth it in the end. Good luck
Wiring is one area that to me is worth buying new harnesses. Why put 40 year old crusty wires and connectors back in after you have gone through the trouble of tear down?
Parts that are visible need more diligence than those that you will never see, but I choose to do all areas like you would see them. If you start replacing stuff the costs go sky high very quickly. If you are going to the trouble and work, leave no stone unturned. Pull the glass and check the windshield frame. There is almost certainly some damage lurking.
Do it right the first time. Upgrade where it makes sense to you. I chose to go more of the resto mod approach after finding issues with the car that were not visible until stripping and tear down. (accident damage) I also decided to do a full engine upgrade after deciding to go for better performance. So know your course before hand and be willing to adapt if necessary. I am not on the path of my intended destination, I had to go down different roads several times.
My wiper assembly was boogered so I went with a long L88 hood and eliminated it. I also went with after market A/C, I just could not see putting the same amount of money into the old system when a new, more efficient system was the same price and all new.
Keep in mind my car was a NOM car to begin with. Upgraded performance parts and air conditioning. I also went with a lot of stainless parts. It will be cheaper to go with an original look under the hood. If you like fancy/shiny there, it will get really expensive.
I am leaving the finishing touches of body work and paint to the body shop. I want the best job possible since paint makes the car IMO. A garage job is OK, but not the best. Of course it is much cheaper.
Keep in mind, the more you tear it apart, the more overwhelming it becomes, the more time and money you invest, but the nicer car you will have in the end.
Regardless, having many car buddy friends is an invaluable asset. If you get stuck or need some extra hands or thoughts, you can never have enough help. Plus, to me, cars are all about the people, friends and stories you get out of the build.
So the moral of all this, PLAN, PLAN, PLAN. If your car is a numbers car and you are planning on an NCRS resto, you need to be more diligent in correctness vs. just looking good, which can get more challenging.
Only things I sent out were the engine machine work, and final bodywork & paint.
It can be done, just don't expect it to take a few months. As a hobby it's usually a multiple year endeavor. In my case 10years

Jim












