Hey,
I'm new here. My name is Ross, and I live in PA. I found this forum because I've been putting off getting a real car for too long. I got married, I finished grad school, got a job, got a house, and the time has finally come (I hope) to get the car I always wanted: a C3. I've read some of the buying guides on here, and have gotten a deeper understanding of the car, but some very basic questions remain, and I hope you all can help me sort them out. I know about the suspension problems/need for replacement, about the birdcage rust, and I understand the numbers-matching thing. Here are my other questions:

1. Mechanics. My grandfather was a GM employee and never went to a mechanic in his entire life. My dad put himself through grad school as a mechanic, and I only ever remember him taking a car to a mechanic to get the engine rebuilt. I learned a lot from these two, but I'm still young (26), and my tools in particular are very limited right now (haven't built up a collection yet). If I got up against it with a problem I couldn't fix, do normal mechanics still work on C3's, or are the parts for them broadly unavailable except 2nd hand?

2. Reliability. A lot of C3's that look like they're in good condition seem to be "trailer queens." I have a short (7 mile) commute, and was kicking around the idea of driving it every day. If I don't take it to work at least some of the time, I doubt I'll get the chance to drive it very often. My weekends are quite busy because of the line of work I'm in.

3. Model type. I'm very partial to the early and mid 70's models, but not so big a fan of the ones from the early 80's (bubbled back window). Is there anything in particular that I should be holding out for on these cars (special engine, etc.), or should be avoiding like the plague (one particular model year, etc.)?

Thanks.

 

I am sure you will get a lot of good guidance from other members here. I can tell you that I drive my '69 as a daily driver (have another car but use the vette unless it's raining). You should get familiar with the different C3 model years and what makes them different - think about buying this book (can get one on amazon used for around $20).
http://www.amazon.com/Corvette-1968-...5669981&sr=1-3

The '68 has a lot of "one year parts" that make it a little more difficult and costly for parts. The '69-'72 have chrome front and rear bumpers (73 has chrome rear bumper only). The '68 and '69 also have the side louver gills as opposed to the check box style. Lots more than this but have to run. You also need to figure out of matching #s is important to you - cost more but possibly a better investment (big debate on here about that). If you are looking for a daily driver I would suggest getting a car with a crate or not matching #s as you will save $s and be able to enjoy it more. I bought matching #s and original but in hind site probably should have saved $5-$10k or so and bought a NOM. Best of luck and get ready for a lot of help from this forum.

 

Sorry about that.

Buy a copy. Good reading.


On the later cars, you may occasionally run into metric fasteners, but the vast majority of everything else C3 is SAE. Your existing tools should be fine.

 

I am fairly new to the C3 world and recently bought one in very similar circumstances as yours. I wish I would have read this book prior to buying. As it turns out, I bought the perfect car for me, but the book has great information about the model changes from 68 to 82. Great book. Good luck with your search. --Sam

 

as the c3 evolved, it became more compicated with pollution equipment. and therefore more difficult for an amateur to repair. an earlier model, such as a 69 or 70 will be easier to maintain than an 80. as an amateur myself, i'd stay with the KISS models.

 

If it's going to be a dialy driver, I would suggest that you don't want a numbers matching car. I'd want one with a recent crate engine replacement, maybe even an LS conversion and an overdrive trans. would be nice too. A/C would be a necissity too. At your age I might not have cared that much, but the older I've gotten, the more I want it. As I'm sure you read already, its always better to spend a little more and get a nicer car, then just jumping in on the cheapest one you can find.

 

Hi E,
Thinking of a NEW old Corvette!!!! NICE!
About your tool question..... if the car has it's original, (or original type), engine, a couple of tools, (or pieces of equipment), that you'll need, that most mechanics don't use anymore, are a timing light and dwell meter.
About your parts question..... the vast majority of mechanical parts are still readily available. It's the trim, appearance, and interior items that are becoming more difficult to find. Many of the reproduction parts that are being made aren't very good. For this reason many people are finding that buying a very complete car in good condition is worth the extra cost up front.
I think you'll find the late 60 early 70 cars are VERY easy to work on with the help of the GM CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL, and the GM ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION MANUAL, that are available for each model year.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Since you are in PA and need to keep original smog equipment, I would go with 1974 or earlier. You can have true dual exhaust and no catalytic converter.

Taking it to work is a good way to get to drive it more often. I'm retired, but I drive mine a lot more since I started running errands in mine.

 

Welcome to the forum. You are getting lots of good advice here, hope you use it. Keep us posted of your project.

 

Welcome to the forum! You may not have many tools now but will have! An old Corvette is just an excuse to buy tools!

 

Hey Ross
Welcome to the forum. Finally seeing the sun there in PA yet?
Try to find the best condition car that fits within your budget. Being your first C3 and you want to use it as a daily driver, you need to find something that is reliable and pretty much sorted out. While cosmetics may draw the oohs and ahhs from admirers, you need to give emphasis to the mechanicals. A sorted out car will probably look good too, but just don't go for the shiny new paint and interior while the rest of the car is a pig. You will get more car for your money if you buy a coupe. If you want a removable rear window, look no later than '72. The 4 speed is the way to go. You might want to consider a NOM car with a newer crate motor and most all the suspension and other mechanical stuff already taken care of. That way you can enjoy driving the car while you decide whether or not to move up and spend more of your money. Good luck with the hunt.
Dennis

 

Hello Ross,
since you are in PA, it is likely you are looking for a local car.
I have seen may pictures of Northern cars, and I am familiar with the weather conditions in PA. Hence I suggest you look further away from home, even thought there are some large specialist sellers in your state.

I bought a CA car, which needed a repaint, because the still original paint job was dull, and damaged by the sun; BUT the car is entirely rustfree!! That is extremely important for this model.
On top of that, the car is very original ('81), which is not what you are looking for.
Hence I would suggest to try to find an Southern car between '73 to '77 which are not too expensive yet, and would be a nice daily driver.
Have fun!!
Cor

 

Welcome. Terrific 1st post.
Enjoy the forum, and your search.

 

I couldn't agree more on looking for a car which spent most of its life in the South or Southwest. I had a similar experience with my last Mustang, bought in Southern California and brought back to New England. Like day and night when it came to rust. The California car actually had a few small spots which were rusted, easy to fix compared to the native New England rust buckets. The first Mustang of several which actually had a floor pan and trunk floor which were intact. A general observation, some northern cars were pampered and are still in good shape. Corvettes can have major rust issues but still look great, beware.

If you want simple, no emission components to speak of IE catalytic converters, you may think about a 73. No wiper door, no fiber optics, no catalytic convertor, dual exhaust. The down side is no removable rear window. If you don't mind possibly, needing to tinker, 69 - 72 would be my next recommendation, only reason I don't include 68 is the one year parts. I'm partial to the 70, removable back window, fiber optics, wiper door (mechanics of it doesn't bother me), high back seats, etc.

A NOM will be cheaper than a comparable numbers car. Coupe cheaper than Convertible. If the NOM is a relatively new engine, reliability may be better. Nice if it came with modern systems like fuel injection but I haven't seen any personally. The original engines were not terribly fuel efficient. I swear I can see the gas gauge moving down as I drive.

You should be able to do most of the work yourself. Everything takes twice as long to fix on a Corvette, compared to other cars, since many parts aren't easy to get to. They weren't built for ease of maintenance. Most parts are available from Corvette parts suppliers. As someone mentioned earlier, the quality of reproduction trim parts are generally poor. They're expensive to paint as well. I agree with Faster regarding putting the mechanical condition high on the list. If a seller is flipping the car they'll most often skimp on the mechanicals and just pretty the car up. Been there, no fun at all... Paint would be my next priority after mechanicals.

 

Wow, you came to the right place with that question: Lots of great answers.
I might add that I am working on a 76 with basic tools. I am adding a few as I need them, but most of the tools are ones you either already own, or should anyway. There are a few specialty tools that you will need like pullers and such. Most of the big auto parts stores will loan them out. You just buy it, use it, return it. I have a steering wheel puller right now from Advanced Auto.
Good luck!

 

PA and a daily driver. Hmmmm winter too? I am in MD and I know the salt beds! Does PA have a Historic License program like MD does? Here, we do not have to emission qualify or inspect. If PA does, that would influence me a lot. I was in the same boat. I don't really care for the C4's and I can't afford the C5 &C6. I always liked the C3's growing up in the 70's. I remember trying to afford a C3 in 74 when I got my first car. What an eye-opener! Now that I'm 55, I finally got my C3. I pondered which model year and decided that the last year of production would be the best. Technology and repair would also be the best. Well, I was half right. After learning a LOT about early FI and electrical on the 82, I am glad I bought it, but to each his own. I would suggest the 74 if you don't like the teardrop window series. It has the most going for it. Simple tools will also work, but, as many pointed out ... an excuse to get more tools is always welcome at my house! I've take hover our 3 car garage with the Vette. 2 bays for tools and parts, and one for the car. You will see ...

 

I have the third stall full of interior parts and wheels and stuff.

 

Hello and welcome to the forum!

I drive mine regularly, but I do NOT consider it a daily driver. I've got a 2010 Ford Focus for that. I drive the Corvette everywhere though. It stays in when it rains, and will never see snow. If I want to work on it doing something that may take a few days it's no big deal. I can drive the Focus on sunny days if I have to..

My advice is to always have a second car such that the Corvette can be the car you drive when you want to drive it rather than when you have to drive it.

If you have another car you'll find that working on the Vette is relaxing and rewarding. If you only have the Vette (and have to get it up immediately) you'll find working on it to be stressful and frustrating...

 

Hi Ross,
great to have you. I'm sure you will read all these posts and study them carefully, I haven't yet but thought I might have something helpful to add. I'm 34 now, but bought my C3 when I was 27 and wanted to drive the heck out of it because I have wanted a corvette since I was about 10. I made a few right choices and got a few tough breaks. I targeted a car from the south because we use salt on the roads up here (Chicago) and everything is pretty well rusted out. Here's kind of how mine shook out:

year: 1974 (first non chrome bumper car, flat back window, Stingray) - these are less costly than the chrome bumpers but I think still look tough if done right. I didn't know much about '74's going into my search, but I am very pleased with it
engine: crate GM ZZ4
Trans: TH400 (planned to change it to 5 or 6 speed manual, still do...)
Cooling Sys: Installed DeWitts with dual spals and new mechanical water pump because the stock unit couldn't cool the crate motor. Upgraded alternator to 140A at this time also
Brakes: seized on me after 3 months driving when a rubber hose collapsed. now all new stainless lines, rotors, calipers, etc. I did this in my garage but there were plenty of places I could have taken it.
Headlights: after market fixed kit installed prior to my purchase, installed relays recently to take load off dimmer switch.
Ignition: MSD with 6AL - unreliable at best. HEI is the way to go for a driver, but you need a tach drive for a '74

I've also done many other interior and dress up projects by choice like install blue LED dash lights, sound system with kick panel speakers and rear sub, new seat belts from a late 90's Trans Am, valve covers, etc. Most of these little projects won't keep you off the road and can be accomplished with a basic 150 pc or less tool kit and a few specialty tools, like a timing light and a multimeter. You will need to buy some wiring diagrams for the car, I like the Doc Rebuild pair I have and use them all the time.

I targeted a non numbers matching chrome bumper car but couldn't pass this one up because it had the paint, wheels and sidepipes I wanted plus a newer crate motor. Parts are plentiful (access isn't) and the crate motor makes it that much more reliable. I don't have to worry about smog equipment on it because I don't have to pass emissions in IL with a 25+ yr old car.

Check the body fit. I figured I would be able to adjust my hood to line up but I can't- at least not without major surgery. There is no vertical adjustment because the hinges sit on pads so mine has always sat high. If you see a flaw check to see if it looks fixable or is at least something that won't drive you batty every time you look at it...

This forum is a huge help! Seemingly unlimited expertise here

Good Luck!

-Dan

 

Lovely.