The good news is its all on and the car is drive-able, the bad news is its still not running 100% right. It starts and idles so much better than before, I don't even have to put my foot on the gas to start it up, but it still has a miss on acceleration. Will deal with it more tomorrow.

 

Chrome air cleaners will cause those problems if not adjusted properly.

 

does it act like it runs rich? smoke? gas smell in exhaust?

 

You're never even "sorta" done with these cars. Be ready for it./:\

 

Just curious. What have you done?

 

How do you adjust a chrome air cleaner???

 

You turn the Edlebrock logo in 45* increments until optimal air flow/intake is achieved as seen by RPMs. Then re-adjust air mixture screws.

 

My bad, a Weiand manifold was put on, a rebuilt Edelbrock carburetor and new distributor, rotor, and cap was put on and of course, the air cleaner.

 

Yes, I do believe its running rich and there seems to be more smoke from the exhaust than before (but its also been a bit colder than a few weeks ago). As for a gas smell in the exhaust, can't say I've smelled it. I am still a big noob at auto repair, so I hope to take it over to a friend's later this evening.

I do know this. The "sorta" went with the manifold/carburetor/distributor aspect and how it doesn't run right.

 

You're never done, sorta or otherwise. I'm assuming yours is an 81. Are you still computer equipped? I'm not real up on the computer controlled carb cars just the FI ones.

 

Done? mmmm... If we're keeping it real and constructive, I'm thinking if you spilled a can of engine cleaner in there it would really make a significant difference. In those pics, it looks like everything is coated in a 1/8 inch of grime ?

 

What would happen if you flipped the lid of an open element chrome air cleaner?
Give that a try!!!

 

Kidding aside, thanks for the update on the mods you made. Changed the intake, carb and distributor. Common targets to motor "enhancements".

Consider that your additions should work with the other existing components in the engine: mostly, camshaft, heads, and exhaust. Compression also affects tuning but not as much as the cam and timing. It's a dance to have all the components play well with each other; that should be anticipated when making these kinds of changes.

Since you are getting your feet wet at auto repair, consider if there may be a vacuum leak too. Assuming the intake gaskets didn't shift during the install, ensure any unused carb ports are capped. If the carb is known stable, it may only need external adjustments to smooth it out. Each case is different as much as it can be generic.

I can't offer any help with an early processor-controlled ignition and curious if the car has OBD II codes that can be read? Or is that technology not available in late model C3's?

Ensure that you're not fighting a vacuum leak and the rest can be tweaked with the tune-up info from a qualified shop manual.

BTW: that trike in 3rd pic; you a family guy too? If your time is pulled by different priorities, ask if your buddy can explain any discoveries to fixing the problem(s) and learn any best methods he brings to avoid repeating what slowed you down.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Tally Ho, with the new distributor, the computer no longer has any control/say in anything.

Dustup7T2, I have no idea about OBD II codes, as for vacuum leaks, that's one of the first things I began hunting down, that and trying to eliminate as many vacuum lines as possible. I am not a family guy in the sense you're speaking of, its for my nieces. The culprit we're looking at for the way it accelerates right now is a spark issue. You can hear a spark from the top of the cap. What we are not sure of is if its a wire or a bad coil.

 

OBDII came along in 96, earlier were OBDI