Removed intake, Have CONCERNS please look
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Dave. How many of your push rods are the gold color? The two different colors are not stock. The retainer may be able to be just put back in place however it would cause me some concern that it came out in the first place. Is the clip worn on any of its contact points with the lifter? The engine experts will have some ideas. I have all my clips from my original lifters if you need one. I will never use those lifters again but the clips are in great shape. I am thinking you do not want to change the cam now but if you decide to I can let you know soon how this Lunati is working in mine. Let me know. mike...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,487
Likes: 10
From: Palm Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '12
Dave. How many of your push rods are the gold color? The two different colors are not stock. The retainer may be able to be just put back in place however it would cause me some concern that it came out in the first place. Is the clip worn on any of its contact points with the lifter? The engine experts will have some ideas. I have all my clips from my original lifters if you need one. I will never use those lifters again but the clips are in great shape. I am thinking you do not want to change the cam now but if you decide to I can let you know soon how this Lunati is working in mine. Let me know. mike...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
My stock push rods are all silver. Someone will know what brand the gold ones are. I think if you replace the lifters you will need to change the cam also. They wear to each other and if you change either the older part will wear out quick. Lets see what the real experts say. mike...
Pro
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 691
Likes: 25
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Pushrod has been replaced sometime in the past. Don't know why, but more than likely it was bent. I would pull the valve cover on that side and look at the rocker and see if it has been replaced too. Chances are the spring inside the lifter is failing and created clearance that allowed the clip to come out, though in theory it shouldn't but engines haven't read the "in theory" manual 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,487
Likes: 10
From: Palm Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '12
It's settled, I will be adding new lifters to this job. MDS3013 i'm starting to become like you and everyone else here. One thing leads to another leads to another and so on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Hi Dave. This is what I know. The bottom of the lifer has to be convex. If it is totally flat or concave it is not useable. The easy way to ck. is to place the bottom of one lifter onto the side of another and ck. the condition. Mine were still convex but just slightly and one had this score mark.
Good luck as always. Going out right now to fire mine up. mike...
Good luck as always. Going out right now to fire mine up. mike...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,487
Likes: 10
From: Palm Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '12
Hey guys, what is your take on priming lifters? Should I soak the new ones then place them in. Or soak and use a pushrod to prime them with oil?
Also I have the balancer at 0 and both lifters all the way down ON THE #1 piston,is the rotor pointing in the right direction for TDC?
Also I have the balancer at 0 and both lifters all the way down ON THE #1 piston,is the rotor pointing in the right direction for TDC?
Last edited by daanbc; Oct 2, 2011 at 11:10 PM.
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Well, looking at your photos it is clear that you do not have "gold" pushrods. They are just stained with old/burnt oil. If you wipe one down with lacquer thinner, it will likely go back to the original steel surface.
Since you had one that was "silver", it likely had been replaced and may not have been set properly. At least, that would be my guess as to what has happened. Unless you see significant wearing on the bottom face of the lifters, you should be able to put stock replacement hydraulic lifters in there with no problem. Also, if you reuse the pushrods (I would suggest you replace them but make sure the new ones are the same length), clean them well and soak them in lacquer thinner to clean out any 'gunk' on the inside of the rods, too.
Since you had one that was "silver", it likely had been replaced and may not have been set properly. At least, that would be my guess as to what has happened. Unless you see significant wearing on the bottom face of the lifters, you should be able to put stock replacement hydraulic lifters in there with no problem. Also, if you reuse the pushrods (I would suggest you replace them but make sure the new ones are the same length), clean them well and soak them in lacquer thinner to clean out any 'gunk' on the inside of the rods, too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
As was pointed out, the bottom of a flat tappet is not really flat at all, but convex. The reason is so the lifter will spin in its bore and not develop a flat spot from continually rubbing the same place on the cam lobe.
I have never had luck with dunking my lifters. A squirt can forces in a bit of oil and displaces any air bound in them. Treat the new lifters to a schmear of cam lube just like if you were installing a new camshaft. It's to prevent premature wear to these new seating surfaces until they wear in.
The rotor looks fine as long as it's pointing to your #1 plug wire location on the cap.
I have never had luck with dunking my lifters. A squirt can forces in a bit of oil and displaces any air bound in them. Treat the new lifters to a schmear of cam lube just like if you were installing a new camshaft. It's to prevent premature wear to these new seating surfaces until they wear in.
The rotor looks fine as long as it's pointing to your #1 plug wire location on the cap.
