Definitely use a chain.
removing front coil spring question???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
removing front coil spring question???
I've searched the forum and have read several threads but still not sure of the exact procedure for removal of coil springs. I was going to remove by separating the lower ball joint but the cotter pin is rusted and broke off inside the ball joint. As a result I can't remove the castle nut.
Now I need to remove by separating the upper ball joint. I've pulled the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut some on the upper ball joint (about halfway off). I've pounded with a ball joint fork but it won't release. Do I need to jack up on the lower control arm first or just keep banging away on the upper joint?
Once I break free, do I simply jack up the lower control arm, remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint and then slowly lower the jack? I have a chain around the coil spring and have a threaded rod thru the spring as well that can be used as a spring compressor if needed.
Thanks,
Jim
Now I need to remove by separating the upper ball joint. I've pulled the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut some on the upper ball joint (about halfway off). I've pounded with a ball joint fork but it won't release. Do I need to jack up on the lower control arm first or just keep banging away on the upper joint?
Once I break free, do I simply jack up the lower control arm, remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint and then slowly lower the jack? I have a chain around the coil spring and have a threaded rod thru the spring as well that can be used as a spring compressor if needed.
Thanks,
Jim
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 526
Likes: 1
From: Millington TN
I had a similar problem with the cotter pins. I was able to get them loose but not out. I ended up cutting the rounded end and pulling the ends out one at a time. For the ball joint I jacked up the lower arm and banged away. Make sure the end of the fork isn't hitting the frame, I had to jack it high enough so the fork was clearing the frame and then it popped right out. Others told me to whack the upper arm of the spindle on the side with a small sledge and it would pop right off. Didn't work for me as I couldn't seem to get enough room for a good backswing.
Once it's free I aligned the jack so I was able to slowly lower it while standing in front of the car out of the way. Jack it up, remove the castle nut the rest of the way, stand clear and go slow, good luck!
And I did it without a compressor, just make sure the car is high enough off the ground that the lower control arm will swing far enough open to pull the coil out.
Once it's free I aligned the jack so I was able to slowly lower it while standing in front of the car out of the way. Jack it up, remove the castle nut the rest of the way, stand clear and go slow, good luck!
And I did it without a compressor, just make sure the car is high enough off the ground that the lower control arm will swing far enough open to pull the coil out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 147
From: S Nevada
Got any penetrating oil? I usually spray the parts down liberally with it before doing any work on parts such as this, and let it soak a bit. Yes, if you hit the spindle with a BFH where the ball joint shaft goes thru it, then it will usually release. So keeping the nut on partially is a good idea. Sometimes I will need to use the fork too. Get 3 or 4 lb drilling hammer, a 1 lb ball peen isnt enough wt. If you succeed in getting the upper loose, then you can then carefully lower the control arm to remove the spring. I like to use a spring compressor as its safer. You can rent them from auto zone or checker and get your money back on the rental if returned in the condition you rented it. As for the lower joint, the cotter pins are usually a soft material, even if sheared you can usually still get the nut off. I know my lowers were a pain in the butt with the 72 and took a lot of whacking with a BFH and a pickle fork to finally get it out of the spindle.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
even though you snapped the cotter pin, you should be able to get the nut off past it, the nut is far tougher material than the cotter pin!!! Get it apart and spring out then worry about removing the cotter pin, usually comes right out, or worst case run a drill bit through the hole.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
Thanks for the replies. Good to be back working on the vette after 10 months away. I'll hit this project this weekend between college football games. Just installed a mini-fridge in the garage and stocked it full of beer so this will be a great weekend project.
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 3
From: charlotte N.C
Here is what I did. But I guess it is a little different then having the body on the car.
http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...nd_removal.php
http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...nd_removal.php
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
1. Never use a pickle fork...it just tears up the boot and there are far easier methods.
Much easier to take a 5lb hammer and hit the loop that the ball joint goes through and it'll pop right off. You have to hit it hard though. and make sure your nut is still on the threads some or when it goes the suspension will drop and that spring might be coming at you.
Search Google for Ball joint removal and one of the first few videos will be of this technique and believe me it works. If not i'll post a vid when not at work.
2. I find the old stock springs to be like an adult Jack in the Box. I used a jack under the lower control arm and lowered it as far as it would go and the spring still wouldn't pop out of the socket. I think I ended up unbolting the 3 bolts on the lower arm and got it to finally release.
I think I tried renting a spring compressor and couldn't really get it to fit in there very well. If you're putting the old springs back in you'll have to find some way to compress them and then still be able to get the compressor out after they're in place. I just bought 500# new springs that were much shorter and go in easy!
Much easier to take a 5lb hammer and hit the loop that the ball joint goes through and it'll pop right off. You have to hit it hard though. and make sure your nut is still on the threads some or when it goes the suspension will drop and that spring might be coming at you.
Search Google for Ball joint removal and one of the first few videos will be of this technique and believe me it works. If not i'll post a vid when not at work.
2. I find the old stock springs to be like an adult Jack in the Box. I used a jack under the lower control arm and lowered it as far as it would go and the spring still wouldn't pop out of the socket. I think I ended up unbolting the 3 bolts on the lower arm and got it to finally release.
I think I tried renting a spring compressor and couldn't really get it to fit in there very well. If you're putting the old springs back in you'll have to find some way to compress them and then still be able to get the compressor out after they're in place. I just bought 500# new springs that were much shorter and go in easy!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
I've got the 5/8 all thread rod in there as a spring compressor plus a chain wrapped around the spring just in case.
Punishervette: Thanks for the info. I went to autozone last night to rent a balljoint fork and the guy behind the counter suggested this method instead of the balljoint fork. I'm going to give it a try.
Punishervette: Thanks for the info. I went to autozone last night to rent a balljoint fork and the guy behind the counter suggested this method instead of the balljoint fork. I'm going to give it a try.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
This video shows it in the first minute or so. Basically like the guy says.
You just hit the knuckle to "shock it". If it hasn't bee done in a while you might REALLY have to whack at it. They say it's not the best for your knuckle but if it breaks doing this it probably had a problem before anyway.
You just hit the knuckle to "shock it". If it hasn't bee done in a while you might REALLY have to whack at it. They say it's not the best for your knuckle but if it breaks doing this it probably had a problem before anyway.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
To remove the spring, (assuming the shock is already removed) loosen the upper ball joint nut a few turns, with the steering turned all the way towards the other side of the car, you'll see a pad on the steering knuckle where the ball joint goes through it. Hit the knuckle there with a few good hits the spring tension will help separate it, and by not removing the nut (really only loosen it so you still have the ball joint stud sticking through the nut) the spring can't go any where. Once it pops loose, jack up the lower arm with a floor jack and reverse what I did here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-easy-now.html
Last edited by damoroso; Oct 13, 2011 at 08:12 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 4
From: Arlington texas
youtube is your friend. I removed my springs and pretty much knew how but wasn't sure that I was doing it in a safe manner. Went to youtube and watched a video or two and it was easy. Reassuring to see what you are about to do before you do it.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
even though you snapped the cotter pin, you should be able to get the nut off past it, the nut is far tougher material than the cotter pin!!! Get it apart and spring out then worry about removing the cotter pin, usually comes right out, or worst case run a drill bit through the hole.
Been there, done that...many times!
