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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RIO68
Bigger cylinders is bore size--size of the hole. Shaved head is cutting the surface of the head down like when you plane a piece of wood to make it smooth. You can only cut them so much and not mess them up.
Does any one did that? how much you can cut in mm?
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
Shaved, meaning make the cylinders bigger? Isn't that what they do when you turn a 350 into a 383 stroker - make the cylinders bigger?
The cylinders are usually only 0.030" bigger in a 383. The increased CID comes from a longer stroke. It is changed from 3.48" in a stock 350 to 3.75" in a 383 stroker. http://www.4secondsflat.com/Calculator_for_CID.html
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
From the seller, it is equipped with following: true dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers, edelbrock alluminum intake with original carb, and all smog intact.

I have no idea what my HP (or Torque) is at this point, as the seller didn't know.

When someone talks about the smog, are they talking about the cat. converters?

I will drive it plenty before I make changes. But I wanted to get a head start so I have a good idea what to save for or start looking for so I can get the best deals. It could end up being for nothing, but I will still learn something.

there are 2 huge determining factors when it comes to the horsepower difference between mid 70's+ cars and the "real muscle car" generation. (please by all means correct me on anything i misinterpreted, or elaborate more on the subject, im only 22, i wasn't around for the glory days)

1, is the way horsepower was rated in these two time periods.
earlier on, engines were dyno'd with no accessories, therefore reading moderately unrestricted power. later on, they were tested with all of the accessories, giving you a more accurate rating of what youre really going to be driving off of the lot.

2, the epa. emissions went berserk. America saw the attempted assassination of muscle cars. cams became more mild, exhaust and intake systems more restricted. at the time, the strict emissions laws made pavement melting horsepower too difficult to reach due to lack of technology.

id say with a new cam and intake manifold you should see the power youre looking for, btw i think youre at around 200 hp, and 300 ft lbs of torque but not sure about that
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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Even with lower compression heads, just get a CompCams 268H cam,lifterand timing chain kit. Use a Weiand Stealth intake manifold.....or reuse your old intake. You will notice a difference either way and still run cheaper pump gas.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by builder
Even with lower compression heads, just get a CompCams 268H cam,lifterand timing chain kit. Use a Weiand Stealth intake manifold.....or reuse your old intake. You will notice a difference either way and still run cheaper pump gas.
How does this work? I gain horsepower and performance, but my gas usage goes down too.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #26  
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He was saying "still run cheaper pump gas".

Increasing efficiency increases HP & fuel economy like duals, low restriction mufflers & headers. The 260H cam is good for over 300HP & Comp says will improve gas mileage.
If you drive hard the 268H is very good for 4spd. I have rec. it many times.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #27  
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If I can get to 300 or 350 without any significant engine modding that would be great. According to another poster I am around 200, so I have a long way to go.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #28  
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Crate Motor from GM.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #29  
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St. Jude Donor '17, '19
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Originally Posted by MMH2009
Crate Motor from GM.
Well I guess that would be one way to avoid engine mods....just replace the engine. lol
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:51 AM
  #30  
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St. Jude Donor '17, '19
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How much would I be spending for these few replacement parts?

Also, is there any advantage to using the exposed air filters you see in many of the vette pictures on here? Do they require any modification to the engine or just take off the old air filter and put on these new ones?
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
How much would I be spending for these few replacement parts?

Also, is there any advantage to using the exposed air filters you see in many of the vette pictures on here? Do they require any modification to the engine or just take off the old air filter and put on these new ones?
I think you are just going to have to decide where and how much money you want to spend.
If you want good mileage....give it a good tuneup and run cheap gas.
If you want horsepower, put in a cam kit, get a good exhaust, carburetor, heads, intake, air filter and ignition system.
If you want it to look cool when you lift the hood, buy some valve covers, air cleaner, other chrome goodies and clean up your engine compartment.
You are kind of asking for everything without spending money or doing much to the engine. Ain't gonna happen.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
Thanks. I don't need a drag car, but I would like to have a little more performance out it. 190HP from a v8 just sounds bad. lol.
Well the sound sure can be fixed...just remove the cat and forget putting any mufflers on the car...lol I did this on my79 and 76 (both low horsepower cars but added Monza Mufflers (really a short 6 inch resonator...now at least the cars "sound" fast...

Bob G.
64 72 76 79 88 (35th anniv) and 98 Corvettes ...
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #33  
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St. Jude Donor '17, '19
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Do some of these mods require other changes to the engine? For example, changing the headers means changing the head gasket? Will changing the headers or intake effect the heat inside the engine bay, therefore, in the cab?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MN80Vette
The Edelbrock intake may be an uptick too. Which Edelbrock intake do you have?
Sorry this took so long. The seller told me it was a Edelbrock "Performer".
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dinodon51
I have a 1980 L-48 and have put less than $1500 into the engine without pulling it from the car. It now has a little over 300 honest horsepower by the dynoprograms. I easily do 60 in less than 6 seconds. I upped the compression and gave it better breathing by putting Dart SR 165 72 cc heads. This moved the compression to around 9.3 very doable on premium. I know these arent the best heads for the draggers but they are great if you want your power down low where it counts on the street and they can be had for less than $700. Next I put in a melling 204/214 cam which is identical to the edelbrock performer. I mated the cam to compcam 1.52 roller tipped magnum rockers. It now has a very slight lope but still good with air conditioner, etc. I put a true 2.5 inch dual exhaust on and junked the one pipe choked original. I blocked off the EGR plate on the manifold and installed an edelbrock 1406. I set the timing to 12 degrees with warm idle at 900 in park and 650 in gear. The car is very quick and extaordinarily responsive in the low end with power up to the mid 5000s. I would suggest you replace or check your harmonic balancer given the age of the engine and rubber rot. A std replacement is fine as you won't see 6000 with this set up.
Hi, that sounds like an awesome setup, could you share with us all your differential ratio and whether or not you are using stock torque converter so we can compare your setup to ours? it would help us in deciding whether or not to emulate your setup. Thanks,


Scott
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