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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Default Head work cost?

How much should I expect the machine shop cost to be to refurbish the 16 valve guides, replace one exhaust seat, and grind all the seats in a pair of 1970 small block cast iron Chevy heads? These are 3927186 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves.

The one exhaust seat is gone, but all the rest look okay, just the exhaust seats are a little wide. The intakes all look good. The one exhaust guide is gone also, but the rest of the guides are just marginally wide.
Thanks.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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Have all the exhaust seats done while you're at it. So they won't wear differently and you'll have all hardened exhaust seats. Once the Guide and seat machine is set up it's easy to knock them all out at the same time. If it's in budget, I'd go for 1.6 exhaust. If you don't want to replace the worn guides, have them knurled anyway. Resurface and you'll have a set of heads that will last you a long time.
Needless to say, while thay are off and cleaned the valve job should be done.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 02:56 PM
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5yrs ago in central jersey it cost $225 and that included all new seats and guides
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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I now have an engine at local machine shop - and they soaked me for the same job you are looking to have done ... be sure to get an estimate in writing !!!
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Blu72
I now have an engine at local machine shop - and they soaked me for the same job you are looking to have done ... be sure to get an estimate in writing !!!
I hear you, that is why I started this thread. I took my two heads to a local machine shop, here is the verbal estimate they gave me. To replace all eight exhaust valve seats, do all the guides, grind the seats, magnflux, and surface both heads, around $650!!! I thnk he missed it when I said this is a low budget rebuild?!?! I did not leave the heads there!
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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My buddy just had that same work done last week on his 71 heads at BBC in Linden, NJ.

I believe they charged him 500.00
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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You can get a set of heads already worked pretty cheap at eBay if you don;t mind aftermarket.

I have seen a set of Alum 2.02/1.60 complete for the low $600ish range.

Call around and get prices as the work can vary.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Marlin
You can get a set of heads already worked pretty cheap at eBay if you don;t mind aftermarket.

I have seen a set of Alum 2.02/1.60 complete for the low $600ish range.

Call around and get prices as the work can vary.
I don't want to go aftermarket, and I have already been ripped off on Ebay with the set of heads I have. I want to keep the look of the engine original, etc.

When I bought my 70 350/350, it did not have the original heads. I looked around on Ebay until I found a set of corrrectly dated heads that were the large valve 350hp heads, so the seller said. When they arrived, it turned out they were the correct date and casting numbers, but they were 300hp heads with the small valves and pressed in rocker studs. Shipping cost was expensive since they are so large and heavy. So, I decided to try and make them work, even though they are the small valve heads. The machine shop I took the heads to refused to open them up to 2.02/1.60, saying there was not enough material in the head to do so. That is where I am right now.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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That price is in the ballpark. Put in new guides/seats they are going to have to do a valve job .Of course seals springs surface, etc. It adds up.

No way to really do it on a budget and have it right.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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1970 350 HP heads had pressed in studs.
Bob
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by boat196
1970 350 HP heads had pressed in studs.
Bob
Are you certain? But they would have had 2.02/1.60 valves instead of 1.94/1.50 for sure.

Last edited by longbros; Nov 22, 2011 at 02:04 PM. Reason: error
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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I spend $550 on my original heads; new guides, springs, surfacing, seals, etc. I feel I would have been better off adding a couple hundred dollars for a good set of after market heads.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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longbros, what casting number do you have? pretty much any early small head, of the 1970 era can be brought out to 202s no problem...be curious to see what you bought

maybe the shop isnt the best, let us know the casting number, then maybe retrieve your heads and figure out the next move, which may involve bringing them to a new shop...
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BOSTONCAMARO
longbros, what casting number do you have? pretty much any early small head, of the 1970 era can be brought out to 202s no problem...be curious to see what you bought

maybe the shop isnt the best, let us know the casting number, then maybe retrieve your heads and figure out the next move, which may involve bringing them to a new shop...
The heads are 3927186 heads. I know these heads(castings) were machined for 1.94/1.50 and 2.02/1.60 valves, depending on the application. The shop I took them to is the only local shop I could find, but I am continuing to look. I did not leave my heads with them. I brought the heads home with me.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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DEFINITELY can take 202s not a problem

Go to another shop, even if you have to drive or ship them...my 186 heads had 194s. I put 202s in them and as you mentioned they came both ways from the factory
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:04 PM
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My 72 SB had the X heads installed, with 1.94's...Did some detective work and found the flow data to be quite intriguing, Ssssooo...
I paid $750 to have screw in studs, bronze valve guides, hardened seats installed, 3 angle grind on new valves and new double springs...
I think the guy felt sorry for me....
Roanoke, VA
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mobjack68
My 72 SB had the X heads installed, with 1.94's...Did some detective work and found the flow data to be quite intriguing, Ssssooo...
I paid $750 to have screw in studs, bronze valve guides, hardened seats installed, 3 angle grind on new valves and new double springs...
I think the guy felt sorry for me....
Roanoke, VA
WOW! I was just not expecting this head work to be so expensive! Sounds like you had done what I need done. I just don't have that kind of money right now. By the way, what are X heads?
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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Around here that's a bit high. I'd still get the 1.6s I wouldn't worry about the 2.02s unless you intend to trun 6,000 or more often. The 1.94s will work for you. Prices range in different parts of the country and states. In northern Ohio machine prices seem to be higher by 30% or so over southern Ohio. So I'd shop around for somemore prices. Make some calls. Seems like you know what you're looking for.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:17 PM
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A friend of mine here in South Jersey, just had a pair of 327/300 heads done for his 62 Super Sport. He paid $800 for the job! The guy who did them is meticulous, and is well known for doing first class work, but I thought that was pretty steep.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by longbros
WOW! I was just not expecting this head work to be so expensive! Sounds like you had done what I need done. I just don't have that kind of money right now. By the way, what are X heads?
forgot to mention the .003 they milled to flatten the combustion chamber face....my 72 coupe was equipped with the 186X heads... One reason I decided to rework them..I could probably have done aluminum aftermarket for what I have in these....but you know how those corvette guys are...
I also spent the time to port/polish and cc'd the combustion chambers and intake ports, gasket matched the exhaust ports
The "X" ....lots of myth/speculation about these guys, 186X is the casting designation, the port runners were modified to make it flow a little better. Several websites have these heads as replacements for the double hump heads, only with better breathing. Do a little research on the 186, 461 and the 041, saw several flow tests and the "X" heads flowed just a little less than the 2.02's of the 70's....and with the 1.94's you don't get that dreaded crack between the int-exh holes...the 1.94's have more meat between the valves.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13578
has some pretty impressive dyno figures using the 186/461/041, etc..

Last edited by mobjack68; Nov 23, 2011 at 08:14 AM.
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