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Your options are limitless, from rattle can semi gloss black on up. POR works well, Eastwood's chassis black has fans, some use automotive finishes of various types. Do you want a "factory" look or is there some other color/finish on your wish list?
I'm thinking factory black, maybe some cast grey on some stuff for contrast. I'm mainly concerned with what will last and not flake off. I don't want to do it again for a while.
For smaller parts, Rustoleum's Satin Black (#7777) is almost a perfect match for the correct chassis black. Two coats are fairly durable and it sprays and covers beautifully.
Obviously, it's not as durable as powder-coating but there's no way anybody would powder coat every little part,..as you said, too expensive.
Or if you have a gun and compressor, you could purchase one or two of the two-part products from Eastwood that have urethanes and/or epoxies and would last longer,..but again, who's going to rev up the air compressor, measure and mix paint, then clean the gun, for every little chassis part.
Trust me,..rattle cans are found in every top-quality restoration garage.
I am a fan of John Deere Blitz Black. It is made by Valspar and is a true Industrial coating. It is available in spray cans and quart/gallon cans at your local dealer. Looks killer as an engine compartment paint as well.
I am a fan of John Deere Blitz Black. It is made by Valspar and is a true Industrial coating. It is available in spray cans and quart/gallon cans at your local dealer. Looks killer as an engine compartment paint as well.
I forgot about that stuff!
I actually have some left over from a lawn mower fix I did....might try some of that.
I personally use POR15 on all my parts I can. I then top coat it depending on color desired. For the black stuff I use the POR15 Chassis Black. For stuff that should retain a cast iron look I use Seymour Cast Blast in a can to top coat over the POR15 base.
With POR15 the life of the coating depends on the prep. I blast or grind to clean off most of the rust. Then I follow with their Marine Clean to de-grease the parts and after that apply their Metal Ready, which neutralizes rust and etches the part so the paint bites.
It will not withstand Gasoline, Anti-freeze, brake fluid, etc. Gas eats rustoleum.
going with the rustoleum 7777 and primer....
If there is gas, oil/ brake fluid and antifreeze on my front suspension parts I think there will be more imortant things to worry about other than paint!
If there is gas, oil/ brake fluid and antifreeze on my front suspension parts I think there will be more imortant things to worry about other than paint!
Well, look at this way. If you do have problems with getting those fluids mentioned on these parts, not only will you have to deal with those problems, you'll have to go through the trouble of re-doing your parts again
You've obivously never had a radiator hose go on you, while driving. Not saying that it will ever happen, but things DO happen !
But, with all of that said. No matter what finish you put on them, I'm sure, if you take your time & do the job right, these parts will look good for a long time.
I'm getting a quote to powder coat my front suspension parts, however, I'm also thinking about caliper paint in a spray can from VHT for the parts as it's made to withstand high temp and exposure to fluids.