Winter Storage finalized....one question





I have read many threads and here is what I have decided to do.
1. washed the car
2. bought a nice car cover and covering the car
3. filled the tank
4. Tarp on the floor (I am not doing go drive on, just lay it under. I don't want to wear it down as it is a camping tarp)
Two Questions
1. Should I tighten the gas cap closed or leave it unscrewed some so the gas vapors can get out as the temperatures change?
2. Crack windows under the tarp or leave closed? (I don't want a musky smell if I can avoid it. I also don't want critters getting in either, if that is problem with car covers)
Thanks.
Leave it tight, you dont want the vapors to be replaced by moist air.
2. Crack windows under the tarp or leave closed? (I don't want a musky smell if I can avoid it. I also don't want critters getting in either, if that is problem with car covers)
If your car is dry inside, leave them closed. The critters always find ways other than a window. I place sticky traps around the perimeter and near the tires.


Did you change the oil & filter?....this should also be part of your winter storage routine.
FWIW, I leave my windows wide open under the car cover.





Maybe we can get together some during these winter months.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Thanks Phil.
Maybe we can get together some during these winter months.
Just give me a shout
with Mike. But you must restart the engine to circulate that new oil. Used oil contains acids that can eat away your babbit bearings. I'll take a few drops of condensation over acid any day.Also, top up your fuel tank and add stabilizer.
I put 3 open boxes of moth ***** inside to ward off rodents; one in each footwell and one under my decklid. A few ***** on the intake manifold, too.
How do you plan to keep your battery charged?
Ever think about wiping down each tire with something like Armor-All, inside and outside sidewalls?
Mine has chrome bumpers so all the chrome also gets a fresh coat of polish before its winter nap.





I drive about 1500-1800 miles per year and use synthetic oil that I change once per year. It gets changed in the off-season, I am not **** about when in the off-season it gets changed. I'm doing a stay-cation between Christmas and New Year's, and it might get changed then. If I don't get to it then, it could be as late as February. Thanks for the reminder though, I need to order a new case of oil.





I was going to put an air freshner in, but I hadn't considered the moth *****. Doesn't that make your car smell funny for a while after? I mean the leather would soak up that smell.





There is a sticky on the technical part of the forum with a lot of oil-based stuff that you should read at your own risk. The Cliffs on it are that in the mid '90s, the US gumment limited the amount of zinc and phosphorous in oils to extend the life of catalytic converters. This has been blamed for causing wiped cam lobes on engines with flat tappets, so some people will put on their pyramid hat and go on and on about the special oil you need for your classic flat tappet cam engine.
I don't believe it. Because, in the late '90s, there were literally millions of flat tappet engines in the US, and if this were really a problem, everyone and their brother would have been turning up with wiped lobes. I don't know a singler person in my real life that has experienced the problem. I have read many stories online of wiped cam lobes, all of which either had to do with highly modified engines, or improper break-in. I also question some of the logic behind the fear, for example, I have read about how the cam follower can have pressures of tens of thousand of pounds per square inch. I am sure I am not an engine expert, but I don't understand how this could happen in my engine with hydraulic lifters and 70 psi of oil pressure.
That said, since I only change my oil once per year, I have chosen to use a truly "synthetic" oil (and we can argue about what a true synthetic is too), which costs about $10 per quart. Once I have chosen to go that route, there isn't any significant cost increase to get an oil with ZDDP levels in line with what high quality oils had at the time of manufacture of my car, so I buy that.
Last edited by Derrick Reynolds; Dec 8, 2011 at 01:23 PM.













