Starter clicking?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Starter clicking?
Well let's see, turn the key and only clicking from the starter. Battery fully charged. I can start the car with a screwdriver across the starter terminals. Replaced the ignition switch and jumped a wire across clutch safety switch still clicking. Bench tested the new auto zone starter it's good. What next? The car is 74 coupe 350 standard.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Stick a test light on the S terminal, should be a purple wire I think. Use a brake light bulb for a test light, hit the key, light should light up bright. If not start tracing back to find it.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 3
From: League City TX
I would bet on the solenoid being worn internally.
Its engaging when you turn the key (thus the clicking) but the contacts inside aren't making a good enough connection to spin the starter.
When you jump across the solenoid teminals your putting full battery voltage to the S terminal and that engages it with enough force to make sufficient contact.
That's my theory anyway.
Its engaging when you turn the key (thus the clicking) but the contacts inside aren't making a good enough connection to spin the starter.
When you jump across the solenoid teminals your putting full battery voltage to the S terminal and that engages it with enough force to make sufficient contact.
That's my theory anyway.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Remove the Starter Solenoid, tear solenoid apart,
you will find a big copper washer inside, flip it over.
clean the starter contacts with fine sandpaper. Reassemble, it will be a new solenoid again.
free of charge.
you will find a big copper washer inside, flip it over.
clean the starter contacts with fine sandpaper. Reassemble, it will be a new solenoid again.
free of charge.
Last edited by 69Vett; Dec 13, 2011 at 04:37 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
I would bet on the solenoid being worn internally.
Its engaging when you turn the key (thus the clicking) but the contacts inside aren't making a good enough connection to spin the starter.
When you jump across the solenoid teminals your putting full battery voltage to the S terminal and that engages it with enough force to make sufficient contact.
That's my theory anyway.
Its engaging when you turn the key (thus the clicking) but the contacts inside aren't making a good enough connection to spin the starter.
When you jump across the solenoid teminals your putting full battery voltage to the S terminal and that engages it with enough force to make sufficient contact.
That's my theory anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Well let's see, turn the key and only clicking from the starter. Battery fully charged. I can start the car with a screwdriver across the starter terminals. Replaced the ignition switch and jumped a wire across clutch safety switch still clicking. Bench tested the new auto zone starter it's good. What next? The car is 74 coupe 350 standard.
Any chance you wired it wrong? Bad contact?
Jim
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Ok solenoid looks new, took it apart lightly sanded connections and turned around the copper washer. I installed the starter and just clicking, put a test light on the s term. No power when in start position. Guess I'll have to start looking back for a short.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
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hey thanks to all you guys responding I appreciate it. I did install the screw to that copper bar, the problem is I recently hurt my left shoulder and I have to go for xrays, and it hurts like hell messing with starters and trying to fit my 6ft 1 in body under the dash.Anyways i will fix this come hell or highwater. Its a love hate relationship. Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Well, the click you hear is the starter solenoid engaging. But, it [apparently] is not transferring starting current from it's "main power IN" connection to that power buss going to the starter. You need to make certain that the "Power IN" line has voltage on it. If you have a battery disconnect, or the battery wire is bad, or the battery is weak, there won't be enough current passed to turn the starter over.
But, at least you know that the ignition circuit is getting 12vdc to the solenoid.
But, at least you know that the ignition circuit is getting 12vdc to the solenoid.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
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the problem is that the " s"terminal has no voltage. When I hit the start on the ignition switch the test light show no voltage. But I can jump start it with a screwdriver. So it's time to start tracing wires
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
if you receive NO 12volts on the purple "Start S wire"
(when you turn the key to start position,) How do you get a click at the solinoid ?
Not possible.... next check for 12vdc at the Clutch Interlock switch,
the igintition switch suppllies power to the Interlock,
Wait..... you replaced the Igition switch or lock ?
Ignition switch is adjustable position,.... that may be your problem.
If you get power 12vdc to solinoid, but not enough power to energize and turn over,
you probalbe have a bad power cable connection, either 12vdc. or
your GND wires from battery and engine have poor connection.
(when you turn the key to start position,) How do you get a click at the solinoid ?
Not possible.... next check for 12vdc at the Clutch Interlock switch,
the igintition switch suppllies power to the Interlock,
Wait..... you replaced the Igition switch or lock ?
Ignition switch is adjustable position,.... that may be your problem.
If you get power 12vdc to solinoid, but not enough power to energize and turn over,
you probalbe have a bad power cable connection, either 12vdc. or
your GND wires from battery and engine have poor connection.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Added resistance can make a starter circuit malfunction. Do you have a multimeter? They are so cheap anymore, everyone should have one...make up a couple of jumper wires too if you don't already have them...
Google "starter voltage drop testing". Excelauto.com has a brief pictorial; I also recommend "How to Diagnose and Repair Automotive Electrical Systems" by Tracy Martin. The book and the meter together will probably set you back $35 bucks--money VERY well spent IMHO.
Voltage drop testing can be confusing, it helps me to remember how the meter works (basically, when set to measure DCV, the display shows the difference between the two probes, e.g. 12v pos minus 0V neg will read "12.0V" on the meter). You will need somebody to try to crank the engine while you measure the various parts of the circuit.
This is where I would start, anyway. Good luck
Google "starter voltage drop testing". Excelauto.com has a brief pictorial; I also recommend "How to Diagnose and Repair Automotive Electrical Systems" by Tracy Martin. The book and the meter together will probably set you back $35 bucks--money VERY well spent IMHO.
Voltage drop testing can be confusing, it helps me to remember how the meter works (basically, when set to measure DCV, the display shows the difference between the two probes, e.g. 12v pos minus 0V neg will read "12.0V" on the meter). You will need somebody to try to crank the engine while you measure the various parts of the circuit.
This is where I would start, anyway. Good luck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
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So as of today 12-21 I finally figured out why the car won't start it was the starter override interlock switch. I threw it out and ran a jumper wire so I now have voltage to S terminal on the starter. Apparently the EPA back in 74 decided it was a good idea to protect us from ourselves and install this switch so the car can only start if the seat belts are fastened. I think it was discontinued a year or two later because of public outcry. Thanks for everybody who answered my pleas for help. Steve
