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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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How about some opinion. I have two C3s, a 75 I like and am going to keep. I have a 78 that it's a good car but I don't need two (unless I find a conv). I want to sell the 78 but before I got the 75 I bought a couple thousand dollars worth of stuff for it. Some of the stuff carpet, seat foam, seat covers, door panels, ball joints, control arm bushings, front and rear brake calipers, master cylinder kit, window motors and rebuild kits, insulation and a core support. Forgot new stainless brake lines and braided stainless flex brakelines and tie rod ends.
If I put all the stuff on, I will powder coat or POR15 the entire deal, I'll have much more in it than I paid for it. Although it will be a much better car. If I count my labor as a zero, will it benefit me to do the labor or should the sale be an as is and sell all the new stuff I have for it.
I'd really rather give the new owner a much better car, but there is a point where I'd be spinning my wheels. New suspention and new brakes must be worth something in the deal.

Oh forgot, new radio and speakers, stainless fasteners for the cabin.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 05:17 PM
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Man that is a dilemma, If your do all of the work it will be hard to break even let alone make some money on it. I think its going to depend on the buyer and their needs. You might be better off seperating the car and the parts and come up with some type of deal if the buyer wants it all. I'll keep a eye out for you at Canfield next month.

Tim
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Indiancreek
How about some opinion. I have two C3s, a 75 I like and am going to keep. I have a 78 that it's a good car but I don't need two (unless I find a conv). I want to sell the 78 but before I got the 75 I bought a couple thousand dollars worth of stuff for it. Some of the stuff carpet, seat foam, seat covers, door panels, ball joints, control arm bushings, front and rear brake calipers, master cylinder kit, window motors and rebuild kits, insulation and a core support. Forgot new stainless brake lines and braided stainless flex brakelines and tie rod ends.
If I put all the stuff on, I will powder coat or POR15 the entire deal, I'll have much more in it than I paid for it. Although it will be a much better car. If I count my labor as a zero, will it benefit me to do the labor or should the sale be an as is and sell all the new stuff I have for it.
I'd really rather give the new owner a much better car, but there is a point where I'd be spinning my wheels. New suspention and new brakes must be worth something in the deal.

Oh forgot, new radio and speakers, stainless fasteners for the cabin.
Try to sell the car as is, without spending one more minute or one more dime on it. See how it goes. If its not seling and it seems the condition is holding it back, reconsider.

You time and new parts will NOT come back to you in sale price.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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I'll be at Carlisle the week before Canfield this year. See how blocks sell there.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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If you [mistakenly] thought you could put a bunch of new stuff in an old car and be able to sell it for as much (or more) than the total of what you have spent...... I have some ocean-front property in Arizona I would like to sell you.

Owning [and maintaining] a vintage car is a "hobby". Hobbies cost the hobbyist money. That money is not an 'investment'; at least, not a financial one, anyway. The question I would ask is, "If you really didn't want to put all that stuff on your car, why did you buy it?"
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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I agree with the others - you will never recoup the value of the new parts in increased value of the 78. Best to sell the 78 as is, and to sell the new parts seperately.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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The way it looks to me as I see the car. It needs the brakes attended to. SO while I'm doing the brakes and I have the parts I may as well do the ball joints and a arm bushings and tie rod ends. Then it starts to feel like a restoration. I have the old seats out so I need to put something in to sit on. While there I may as well insulate the cabin.
I guess I'm trying to talk myself out of the parts replacement.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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tell the prospective buyer how well he will bond to his new car after he has replaced the front control arm bushings himself.between that and the boxes of stuff you will throw in, that should seal the deal.(i agree with the above).
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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Didn't Tom Sawyer or somebody talk people into painting a fence that way? I'm not going to sell it until spring so I'd feel better with good brakes and a good suspention under it. My 75 doesn't need any of the parts I have.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 01:57 AM
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here is how it will go do the brakes fine, but don't touch the upper/lower a arms if you pull them you might as well change the springs, and the front wheel bearings, power steering hydraulic piston, and the idler arm, tire rods, then you'll notice the age of belts, hoses, fuel lines are probly just as shot as the brake lines and and and and it won't stop! If you knock over one single item on the check list you have mentioned then the worst dominoe effect you can imagine will await you. End result you will get in way over your head in the aspect of time, money, an lack of resale value. This finds you in the position that TOO many others have been in. That you will most likely have the car half tore apart when realizing it is too frustrating and not worth it b/c you'll never be able to stop. So after all that your gonna wind up going to sell it. But now its a half tore apart project that no one wants to finish and you loose even more money than if you let it go as is right now. just walk away man walk away an get what you can out of the car. Offer or list the parts half off of what you paid to the guy who is interested in the car or on ebay
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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jesse10886, you are correct with your prediction. That is how I know I'll deal with it. I'll do exactly what I would do if it were going to be mine. I've already stripped the cabin to apply the Lizzard Skin prep for the insulation.
When I bought it, I offered less because the windows didn't function. Nor did the head lights. I'd like to remove the small things that drive down offers, but you're right they line up like a row of dominos that keep needing addressed. I'd like to keep my asking price around $8,000 or so.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you [mistakenly] thought you could put a bunch of new stuff in an old car and be able to sell it for as much (or more) than the total of what you have spent...... I have some ocean-front property in Arizona I would like to sell you.

Owning [and maintaining] a vintage car is a "hobby". Hobbies cost the hobbyist money. That money is not an 'investment'; at least, not a financial one, anyway. The question I would ask is, "If you really didn't want to put all that stuff on your car, why did you buy it?"
also

you could always offer the additional parts to the new owner as a "package" to re-coup some of the costs. if that doesn't fly, you can always offer the parts here on the forum or there is always that big auction site or craig's list.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Since I bought the parts I've bought another vette. I've decided to put all the stuff on it and ask a price that reflects the condition of the car at that point. I have only one way of doing things, the same way I would if I were to be doing it if I planned to keep it.
The 75 was done that way so I didn't debate the asking price, I paid it. I'll see if it works that way as a seller.
I pulled the front end off this afternoon. Over the weekend I'll get the painting and powder coating done. Start it back together next week.
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