75 vette ac
Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 46
From: Hebron IN
NO! Losing the charge after 1 month is a big leak and all the stop leak is going to do is gum up the system.
Common leak areas are around the compressor body. Sometimes slightly torquing the body bolts very evenly can fix that leak.
If the hoses and O-rings are original they are most likely garbage. I paid around $100 for the hose set and it's not the most fun to change.
The VIR which is a canister jammed down into lower fender area of the passenger side. It has 2 large O-rings that leak. After finding and correcting the leaks, you'll be changing out the desiccant bag in the VIR and the kit will come with a new O-ring. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a top O-ring.
Odds are you have several small leaks and the hoses are porous, especially if you're not using R12. If you want a reliable system, replace everything mentioned above, have it pressurized with dry nitrogen and trace of refrigerant and then checked with a high quality electronic detector.
Few tips:
When you're trying to get at the VIR, there is a small panel you can remove from underneath the car that allows access. You'll want long extensions and a swivel for your ratchet as there isn't much room around the VIR.
You need to remove the hood to disconnect the hose at the top of the condenser. Always use a backup wrench on every fitting.
Common leak areas are around the compressor body. Sometimes slightly torquing the body bolts very evenly can fix that leak.
If the hoses and O-rings are original they are most likely garbage. I paid around $100 for the hose set and it's not the most fun to change.
The VIR which is a canister jammed down into lower fender area of the passenger side. It has 2 large O-rings that leak. After finding and correcting the leaks, you'll be changing out the desiccant bag in the VIR and the kit will come with a new O-ring. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a top O-ring.
Odds are you have several small leaks and the hoses are porous, especially if you're not using R12. If you want a reliable system, replace everything mentioned above, have it pressurized with dry nitrogen and trace of refrigerant and then checked with a high quality electronic detector.
Few tips:
When you're trying to get at the VIR, there is a small panel you can remove from underneath the car that allows access. You'll want long extensions and a swivel for your ratchet as there isn't much room around the VIR.
You need to remove the hood to disconnect the hose at the top of the condenser. Always use a backup wrench on every fitting.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: gastonia nc
leak
I will check it out thanks.
NO! Losing the charge after 1 month is a big leak and all the stop leak is going to do is gum up the system.
Common leak areas are around the compressor body. Sometimes slightly torquing the body bolts very evenly can fix that leak.
If the hoses and O-rings are original they are most likely garbage. I paid around $100 for the hose set and it's not the most fun to change.
The VIR which is a canister jammed down into lower fender area of the passenger side. It has 2 large O-rings that leak. After finding and correcting the leaks, you'll be changing out the desiccant bag in the VIR and the kit will come with a new O-ring. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a top O-ring.
Odds are you have several small leaks and the hoses are porous, especially if you're not using R12. If you want a reliable system, replace everything mentioned above, have it pressurized with dry nitrogen and trace of refrigerant and then checked with a high quality electronic detector.
Few tips:
When you're trying to get at the VIR, there is a small panel you can remove from underneath the car that allows access. You'll want long extensions and a swivel for your ratchet as there isn't much room around the VIR.
You need to remove the hood to disconnect the hose at the top of the condenser. Always use a backup wrench on every fitting.
Common leak areas are around the compressor body. Sometimes slightly torquing the body bolts very evenly can fix that leak.
If the hoses and O-rings are original they are most likely garbage. I paid around $100 for the hose set and it's not the most fun to change.
The VIR which is a canister jammed down into lower fender area of the passenger side. It has 2 large O-rings that leak. After finding and correcting the leaks, you'll be changing out the desiccant bag in the VIR and the kit will come with a new O-ring. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a top O-ring.
Odds are you have several small leaks and the hoses are porous, especially if you're not using R12. If you want a reliable system, replace everything mentioned above, have it pressurized with dry nitrogen and trace of refrigerant and then checked with a high quality electronic detector.
Few tips:
When you're trying to get at the VIR, there is a small panel you can remove from underneath the car that allows access. You'll want long extensions and a swivel for your ratchet as there isn't much room around the VIR.
You need to remove the hood to disconnect the hose at the top of the condenser. Always use a backup wrench on every fitting.
