Newbie needs some pointers
Pointer #2: HAVE FUN!!! I just got my 1970 "on the road" after purchasing it a couple weeks ago for a song. I could either be bummed that the speedo doesn't work, the tach is still wonky, the HVAC doesn't work, the steering is loose, the windshield wipers don't work...the list goes on. I could be bummed about all that or I could be very happy that I have so many little projects I can tinker with in my spare time. It isn't a show car and won't be for 10 more years...if ever. Have fun looking, have fun purchasing, have fun tinkering, and HAVE FUN DRIVING!!!

This is also fairly good, but is not a buying guide.

Good luck with the hunt.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Feb 15, 2012 at 12:03 PM.
I think when buying a project or 1/2 restored Corvette it's wise to remember that the more complete the car is the better off you'll be.
Finding out what you need, and then finding it all, and PAYING for it all, makes you forget pretty quickly what a good deal the project / 1/2 restored car was.
It's the finishing and appearance items... glass, paint, chrome, wheels and tires, and interior, that are the expensive parts of building a car from a project.
Buy a complete, rust free, car. You'll be glad you did.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks for the advice Alan 71, you made some great suggestions. I know it's going to be a lot of work finding exactly what I want, but I don't plan on having it finished for quite a while! It pays to be patient, money is an issue with my first kid on the way, guess I'll just have to take my time!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Two or three screws are all that conceal the bottom of the vents that sit ahead of the doors. Take the screws out of the plastic outer kick plate moldings / interior vent covers and see how much rust you have at the bottom of the bird cage / top of the frame connection. If you have heavy rust there, don't walk... run away. If there is heavy rust there, the upper portion of the bird cage is likely swiss cheese.
Secondly a simple look through the windshield at its edge along the pillar post (where you'll also find your VIN on the driver's side) will likely reveal the quality - rust free to heavily rusted - condition of that frame.
If this is bad, its an extremely costly time consuming repair.
Lastly, check the condition of the interior parts. When every little piece of plastic is somewhere between $40 and $250, when just a seat cover is $250-$350 EACH, you go broke quick trying to make it nice let alone show quality. The interior restoration I'm in the middle of now has gotten crazy pricey. They can be improved or replaced piecemeal over time, but it's still gonna cost you.
This is what I know because I'm working on it. There are likely all kinds of other things to look for, clearly beyond my expertise, but the knowledgeable folks on this forum are incredibly helpful and generous with their time and knowledge. Good luck.
A chrome bumper C3 in good condition isn't going to be cheap, especially a big block. I suggest you decide what your goals for this car are going to be. Do you want 'original' aka 'matching numbers'? A true matching numbers big block will cost you quite a lot over a NOM with identical configuration and condition. They're more desireable to the collectors so you'll pay a premium. In this case to preserve your investment, justify the premium paid, you'll need to keep the car as original as possible. Any modifications will need to be easily reversible. Forging numbers on big block Corvettes to appear original is a big business. If you're paying the premium, better have the stamp pad looked at by someone who can tell you if it's fake. The restampers are getting pretty good at their craft.
On the other hand if you are on a tighter budget, looking to do a restomod, or just a driver, you may find a deal on a NOM big block Corvette. I'll guess 30% cheaper than an identical numbers car, maybe more. With a NOM you'd be free to do whatever you wish with the car without concern about destroying originality. You won't be able to sell it for what the numbers cars go for but if you did your homework, you didn't pay the premium to begin with.
Of course, numbers or not, buy the best condition you can find. Rust is a killer, if you're not familiar with these cars, have someone who is take a look. Birdcage rust is extremely expensive to fix if you can't do the work yourself.
It's going to be your car, decide what you're looking for. Be prepared to stretch a bit on price, always better to buy better condition than to take on a restoration project. (Unless the restoration process is something you're after, money invested not a concern)



















