When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mike Ward, Sorry that I got the N16 wrong , but trust me, My 4 year old 68 coupe with L-79 had the original welded one piece exhaust. And it was 2 1/2". The high performance 327 C-2's had 2 1/2" pipes and that was carried over into the 68's. Did the 1970 LT-1 have 2 1/2" exhaust? I think that the off road exhaust wasn't street legal.
It is hard to tell with the black, but I noticed that besides the glassed in rear exhaust panel, that it has the 70-72 wheel mud flap flares glassed in.
It is hard to tell with the black, but I noticed that besides the glassed in rear exhaust panel, that it has the 70-72 wheel mud flap flares glassed in.
Good catch. On that picture I was focused on the needy undercarriage. Looking at it again, I see the "seams" for the rear valance are actually glassed in. I thought by previous description the fact there were no exhaust ports meant someone glassed them in but kept the stock configuration. This is all glassed in.
Mike Ward, Sorry that I got the N16 wrong , but trust me, My 4 year old 68 coupe with L-79 had the original welded one piece exhaust. And it was 2 1/2". The high performance 327 C-2's had 2 1/2" pipes and that was carried over into the 68's. Did the 1970 LT-1 have 2 1/2" exhaust? I think that the off road exhaust wasn't street legal.
The NCRS judging guide disagrees with most of your info and is very specific on the characteristics of option N11 in 1968.
I'd like to see a picture of the chambered pipes, never seen one before. I believe all SBCs without N11 had 2" pipes even the 327/350.
Side pipes in '69 were RPO N16, not N11.
Mike , Somewhere I thought that I saw a diagram of the off road exhaust and they were straight pipes. If I ever see it again, I will post it. However I have had my 68 for 38 1/2 years. I have had to purchase 2 1/2" heat risers for it and the 2 1/2" clamps by the transmission. I just measured my pipes and they are 2 1/2" outside diameter. I just read a little of the 68-69 NCRS guide and found some errors in it.
Mike , Somewhere I thought that I saw a diagram of the off road exhaust and they were straight pipes. If I ever see it again, I will post it. However I have had my 68 for 38 1/2 years. I have had to purchase 2 1/2" heat risers for it and the 2 1/2" clamps by the transmission. I just measured my pipes and they are 2 1/2" outside diameter. I just read a little of the 68-69 NCRS guide and found some errors in it.
Not to continue the hijack, but simply to clarify: '68's with N11 had 2 1/2" pipes. SB engines of either power rating with standard exhaust had 2". The N11 mufflers both on C2 models and '68, which was the only year N11 was offered, looked very similar to the standard mufflers but differed considerably with the number of baffles as Alan noted above.
Sure he could get 18 for it. Nice curb appeal interior looks clean whats not to like?
Sure noones going to walk away because some hoses and expendables have been replaced.
First impressions sell a car, that one looks sweet.
Mike, I am going to have to look for my tank sticker. The car was 4 years old with 22,000 mi. on it and owned by a girl. She bought it with only 4,000 mi. on it, from another girl. The pipes were welded on the muffler. I thought that they only came that way from the factory. Could you get the muffler welded on over the counter from Chevy?
Im thinking its starting to look like a parts car!!!!!
Ok we have determined that this car has been modified, lower rear valance, possible 70 - 72 rear flares or clip, big block hood, possible 69 grill. The vin, block, trans, and 900 paint code have all been verified. Does that mean its really a parts car??? This car runs and drives down the road great, there is only surface rust on the frame, and the birdcage looks good. The interior is all original and in good shape as you can see from pics. I guess it might be worth a shot on e-bay to test the market. Thanks for your opinions..
No, that's silly. A large market exists out there that--believe it or not--doesn't give a rat's rear about what part number is correct and what should be where on which year.
It's a nice looking car and a good driver. Advertise it as such and you'll be fine so long as you don't try to claim it's an untouched, 100% original "survivor," which is a big pet peeve of mine.
check the Mecum auctions. I was there last month for the one in FL, and I saw a couple 68 that were rougher go for 19-21k (convertible as well). This one looks a lot cleaner than those. it's hard to say but mid 20's wouldn't be unrealistic provided the car checks out (no rust in bird cage, windshield etc)
with the 4 fender flares, hood, and rear exhaust cut out glassed over, looks like the only fiberglass that is original in that car is the doors. It is also a question of how well the bodywork was done. a 68 base engine car does not equate to a large premium, even if original. the neglected underside would concern me. a lot of bolts would break if I started cleaning that up. the upside is it is running, black, matching numbers, and the convertible ( which they made more of in 68, so it is not so rare).
the purists won't touch it, too much work to turn in back into a real 68. that leaves the non-purist, who's eyes will glaze over at the sight of the paint. But they won't care about the original drivetrain. therefor your original drivetrain may not get you much of a premuim.
the most valuable thing on that car is the 900 paint code on the trim tag. But this car has so many mods it may have been pieced together from 2 donor cars. I would like to see all dates on the parts and tags, and VIN to see if the dates line up.