I am a newbie here, but you guys have helped me in the past. I want to turn my 76 Stingray into a dependable car and would like some advice/suggestions on what to do, where to buy parts, etc.

What I have: 1976 L48, 43000 miles, only things NOT original are:

Brakes and calipers redone 3 years ago.
Both half shafts redone last fall with new spider bearings, rear bearings lubed.
Manifold back exhaust redone 3 years ago.
Rear end new gear oil/posi additive last fall.
New battery and alternator 5 yrs ago.
Tranny serviced 2 summers ago.

Plans in the near future (in order):

1. New spider bearings on driveshaft. (spiders on hand)
2. New valve covergaskets, oil pan gaskets, replace front and real main seals. ($55 fel-pro gasket set from NAPA)
3. Flush coolant and block, replace any bad coolant lines, new thermostat.
4. Engine tune up with recurved distributor (once I figure that out), rebuild carb? with kit from Cliff?
5. Inexpensive headers and true dual with x-crossover thingy.
6. Would like to put a little free-er intake on when doing gasket work if there is one recommended without cutting hole in hood.
7. New weatherstripping set - need towel to drive when raining - Wilcox seems to have best price at $235.
8. Replace suspension bushings, shocks, rear 9-leaf spring.
9. Redo parking brake (currently removed at rear hubs).

Phew....did I mention a decent stereo and speakers?

So, here's my question, assuming a budget of $1000 initially (not including stereo ) What would you experienced folks suggest and where would you get the parts?

Do I have the order correct?

More importantly, what did I forget that is more important to do than anything else?

Thanks for your help. Just so you know, I am military and have access to a do-it yourself shop on base. There is very little work that I can't do myself with some old crusty mechanics around to help me through the task.

John

 

john good luck with your project and very important to check the build date on your tires.mine were 10 years old, looked great but could not be balanced, and one of them began to separate along the outer tread.plan on checking everything over time and try to enjoy even the dirtiest of the repairs.

 

Tires were fairly new when I bought it 5 years ago, I have put 11000 on them since with no problems.

Dirty jobs are no problem...I also have a 94 Land Cruiser that I do my own work on, so muddy, old grease knows how to get under my fingernails

I know that other things will pop up, typically when I am ready for a big cruise!, but I am ok with that as well. Thats where the AAA upgraded membership comes in.

Thanks!

 

Are you sure you need this?
Its a big job that could keep the car down for awhile for something unnecessary.
The dash sux for putting in an after market stereo.
If the cars running good, go for the dual exhaust so it at least sounds fast!

 

Willcox is a great place to buy parts from. Their staff is very knowledgeable and give forum members a discount on their already great prices. I think you should be able to stay witin your budget if you watch for deals or even buy some things used if possible. Unfortunately $1000.00 does not go very far on these cars anymore. My credit card and my '78 have become very close friends in the last 3 months that my car has been out of storage after 16 years of sitting.

 

Hey vetman1 - I'm with you, last NJ inspection sticker is from 1997!!!! Hasn't been on the road since and just got it restarted after a couple years....

After some minor stuff - brakes is next!!!!

 

My priorities are make it safe, make it go, make it show. Items 2, 3, 4 and 8 on your list would make sense to start on. Once the "basics" are covered, upgrade and improve as time and budget allows. My .02

 

The reason for new spiders bearings in the drive shaft u-joints is that when I replaced the half shafts last year, the original ones were pretty dry, and deteriorating. I am assuming the ones on the DS are also original and no longer have any lubrication.

 

I would do 4, 3 and then 2 in that order. The disty is probably worn and that could cause your timing to jump around. You could rebuild, replace with stock or go for perf. The carb should be refreshed as well. Cliffs will do it right.

Hoses and gaskets are a good idea too. That should help as the pass side cover usually leaks onto the manifold. Mine did.

The weatherstripping will keep you and the interior dry if you get caught in the rain.

Add up some prices after that and see what you have left. Just those mentioned above should help you get a more dependable vette..

 

Items #5 and #6 cost money and are trouble to change. Yet, they offer very little to enhance engine performance. I suggest you either eliminate them from your list of put them at the bottom.

 

Isn't spider gears in the differential case and lubricated with rear end grease?

 

I apologize, I meant spider bearings. Sorry for the confusion and will correct my previous posts.

 

From the responses so far, in adjusted order:

2. New valve covergaskets, oil pan gaskets, replace front and real main seals. ($55 fel-pro gasket set from NAPA)
3. Flush coolant and block, replace any bad coolant lines, new thermostat.
4. Engine tune up with recurved distributor (once I figure that out), rebuild carb? with kit from Cliff?
(2-4 basically at the same time.)

8. Replace suspension bushings, shocks, rear 9-leaf spring.
7. New weatherstripping set - need towel to drive when raining - Wilcox seems to have best price at $235.

1. New spider bearings on driveshaft. (prev used wrong term - just new bearings in u-joints))

9. Redo parking brake (currently removed at rear hubs).


5. Inexpensive headers and true dual with x-crossover thingy.
6. Would like to put a little free-er intake on when doing gasket work if there is one recommended without cutting hole in hood.
(just trying to free up airflow for 20-30 more horsepower - just for fun so will save for "as money available" project)

Thanks for your recommendations. Is there a common problem that needs preventative maintenance that I am missing?

 

Our cars might be brothers! My 76 L48 has been an ongoing project for the past 5 years.First thing was the whoa before the go.Brakes first,then suspension, shocks,steering was next with a Borgeson box.After the car could stop and steer straight new Firestone tires were next.Then I upgraded with some kool fun stuff a new Richmond 6 spd trans replaced the TH350 auto.The trans swap was the most expensive to date but the most fun for sure.Vette is a blast to drive with that 6 speed.Next up were some engine mods,the car already had Edelbrock aluminum heads and a performer manifold with a 570 Holley S/A.The motor was running ok but never could get it to run like a SBC should run and had oil leaks everywhere.Decided to change to a Air Gap manifold,and go with a solid cam with EDM lifters.Timing was erratic due to the distributor was worn out.Replaced it with a Crane Cams Procurve unit and HI6 ignition box.New gaskets,& rear seal finished the engine work.Engine performance was much improved but still was not yet perfect.I suspected the carb was to blame,tried to rebuilt it but still not getting that crisp response that SBC are know for.Heck just replace the carb with a 600cfm Summit unit! Now the motor runs like a well tuned 350 should.
It's taken 5 years to do all these repairs and upgrades.I do a lot of research before I decide to do any mods and before I purchase the parts.I have been burned by some really junk parts and learned the hard way all parts are not created equal. This forum has been a valuable asset to get this Vette running like it should.Get your projects done one at a time with safety first then the fun stuff after.
Good Luck with your projects and research,research before you spend your hard earned dollars.....Aloha's
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[QUOTE=iokepakai;1580212321]Our cars might be brothers!

Figures...I have a brother who lives on the Atlantic in Charleston SC, my car has a brother who lives in Hawaii...

And we both live in Ohio........

Anyway, I think I have a plan.

Will get the SR carb rebuild kit from Cliff's, get a felpro engine gasket kit from NAPA and get new plugs, wire, rotor, etc and replace the top end engine seals while the carb is off. Once rebuilt, redo the ignition system, set up the recurve and timing, then adjust the carb per Lars's tech papers.

Any opinions on the NAPA felpro gasket kit? It would be the generic SBC one.

Kudos to Cliff and Lars, Cliff emailed me personnaly about rebuilding the carb and so did Lars with some tech papers, even though I understand he had surgery recently.

These communities are a band of brothers, and are an example of the true America.

Anyway, I digress...time to spend some money.

Thanks!

 

I use NAPA for most of my "normal" parts ( water pump, belts/hoses, etc). I just did my rear and front seals and went with the 1 pieces oil pan gasket. I had to use slightly longer bolts for the pan as the originals were a bit short due to the gasket being a thicker.

I got mine from Summit, around $60 all in

FEL-1885 Oil pan gasket
FEL-2702- front and rear seals, timing cover, water pump gaskets, etc

Good Luck!

 

Have you determined whether the carpet and underlayment is in good shape? I'm not sure if 76's have steel or glass floors. Repairing rusty floors or the typical birdcage rust will blow a hole in your budget. Unless you think stopping the Fred Flintstone way is a cool change of pace.