How to drag race with an automatic
#1
Instructor
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How to drag race with an automatic
Please do not kill me for this topic
My 78 is almost finished, in Poland we do not drive automatics and they are a rear find, generally, not only Vettas, so my question is how do you drag race it I had a 1/4 mile experience, beeing couple years ago one of the fastest in Poland, but ofcourse with manual. Is there a special way to use automatic or just set it to drive and put the pedal to the metal
My 78 is almost finished, in Poland we do not drive automatics and they are a rear find, generally, not only Vettas, so my question is how do you drag race it I had a 1/4 mile experience, beeing couple years ago one of the fastest in Poland, but ofcourse with manual. Is there a special way to use automatic or just set it to drive and put the pedal to the metal
#2
Please do not kill me for this topic
My 78 is almost finished, in Poland we do not drive automatics and they are a rear find, generally, not only Vettas, so my question is how do you drag race it I had a 1/4 mile experience, beeing couple years ago one of the fastest in Poland, but ofcourse with manual. Is there a special way to use automatic or just set it to drive and put the pedal to the metal
My 78 is almost finished, in Poland we do not drive automatics and they are a rear find, generally, not only Vettas, so my question is how do you drag race it I had a 1/4 mile experience, beeing couple years ago one of the fastest in Poland, but ofcourse with manual. Is there a special way to use automatic or just set it to drive and put the pedal to the metal
If you're gonna race with an automatic I might suggest a shift kit to help you control the shift points and the speed of the shifts. Also, a higher stall converter might be something to consider.
#4
Race Director
It's a matter of traction really.
Hold the car with the brakes with your left foot and bring the revs up with your right. When the light turns green, you mash the gas. How much gas you can give it and how high you can bring the revs before launch will be dependent upon your available traction.
Trial and error will be necessary until you get the feel for it.
Hold the car with the brakes with your left foot and bring the revs up with your right. When the light turns green, you mash the gas. How much gas you can give it and how high you can bring the revs before launch will be dependent upon your available traction.
Trial and error will be necessary until you get the feel for it.
#6
Race Director
Start with in in D and let the transmission do the shifting while focusing on your launch. If it shifts at awkward points, you will probably want to go with a shift kit like the other poster mentioned.
Starting in 1 (low gear) and upshifting manually may help if it is shifting too soon, but on a well set up automatic, it will not make a difference.
Starting in 1 (low gear) and upshifting manually may help if it is shifting too soon, but on a well set up automatic, it will not make a difference.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Opinions in this matter are just that opinions
Some people run the car as high as it will go say6k revs in first ten slam it into second the same then third
Some people get a run at all three by just putting it in drive an go for it
Find out where your car builds the most torque and where it falls of at an shift it by hand accordingly
Example if your car is most solid at 4500rpm you wanna shift at say 5300 so when you hit the next gear you are already at a solid speed building rpm to get you through second
If you shift two soon the car isn't gonna stall an die b/c it is an auto but it might cost you a 1/16 of a second If it has gotten sloppy or worn parts internally
I would say this car probly isn't gonna do better than a 14.9 anyway just my guess. If you want to really race it an have fun that way you might want to look at a 700r4 swap and play with the gearing. If your gonna keep the 350TH assuming it is fresh an in good shape. You never mentioned rebuilding it in your post doubtful but if it is do exactly as Mark and Nate suggest also putting 3.73 in the rear would be a noticeable improvement
Some people run the car as high as it will go say6k revs in first ten slam it into second the same then third
Some people get a run at all three by just putting it in drive an go for it
Find out where your car builds the most torque and where it falls of at an shift it by hand accordingly
Example if your car is most solid at 4500rpm you wanna shift at say 5300 so when you hit the next gear you are already at a solid speed building rpm to get you through second
If you shift two soon the car isn't gonna stall an die b/c it is an auto but it might cost you a 1/16 of a second If it has gotten sloppy or worn parts internally
I would say this car probly isn't gonna do better than a 14.9 anyway just my guess. If you want to really race it an have fun that way you might want to look at a 700r4 swap and play with the gearing. If your gonna keep the 350TH assuming it is fresh an in good shape. You never mentioned rebuilding it in your post doubtful but if it is do exactly as Mark and Nate suggest also putting 3.73 in the rear would be a noticeable improvement
Last edited by jesse10886; 03-09-2012 at 03:38 PM.
#9
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Point the nose down the track; put your foot on the brake; run the revs up to 1200-1500 (experimental); wait for the light.
#10
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my gearbox was rebuilded.
With the best shifting point I know how to deal, as this is simlillar with manual, pick the point where you will get the most torque after shifting. When I raced it for the first time noticed that shifting is better than DRIVE mode, but I was afraid to blow the trans. If you can do so, than it is clear for me
With the best shifting point I know how to deal, as this is simlillar with manual, pick the point where you will get the most torque after shifting. When I raced it for the first time noticed that shifting is better than DRIVE mode, but I was afraid to blow the trans. If you can do so, than it is clear for me
#11
Le Mans Master
Actually, automatics are preferred over manuals for drag strip usage, as usually launch more reliably. Some racers get into elaborate tranny brakes or front wheel brake system line lock schemes. Whole idea is, revving the engine while still, against the torque converter, gives it more torque to multiply. Agree with installing a Trans Go kit, as will get firmer quicker shifts. I install these on all tranny's, as when you shift manually, you're in that gear instantly. Only thing of caution is, if you accidently downshift to 1st at 100 mph, that's what you're getting, like right now. If you go with a slightly higher stall converter, you wont believe how this thing will come out of the hole, when holding the brakes, on a revved launch.
#12
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I dont have a 78 but do run a 71 with an auto that runs 11.6@115. I can tell you it took me awhile. Auto impacted by a lot of issues. Is it stock tranny and rear end or have you changed it? Is the stall speed stock? What engine are you running? Tires? Type of auto tranny 3 speed or 4? Power band on the engine and Torque? I break all the Drag racing rules( if there are any in mine) I launch at 900 RPM. Every says I am nuts but I runs a 1.6 60 foot time. Autos work great but you must match what the engine and tranny are trying to do. The have to work together. Why do I launch so low, I do not have a high stall converter and my 502 generates 450 pounds of troque at 1700 rpm. If I launch higher it just smokes the tires. Wheel hop is an issue in old vettes. It will break the rear end quick. Good news fixing it cost about 50 bucks. Many companies carry small Alum Disks that are installed on the rear cross member (takes 10 min) that will solve that one. VBP has them. Depending on the Shift point built into you current tranny. Maybe you let it shift and maybe you shift in mannually. My I let shift. Reason with so much torque I want it to shift at as low an RPM as possible. By allowing it to shift at 4800 where it does I end up going fast. If I mannuall hold it and shift at 5500 or higher it acually slows the car down. Why my power band is set up to drive on the street and is really low. If you car like higher rpm than letting it shift on its own then hold it in 1 2 and 3 go for it. If you like you can alway mod the tranny later and adjust the shift point.
hope this helps
hope this helps
#13
Drifting
If you wanna set it up right a nice th350 or th400 (depending on your HP) with a CUSTOM torque converter and reverse manual valve body (that you shift yourself with help of a shift light) will beat ANY stick shift car with similar power-weight.
Unless its exotic like a Lenco or a slipper clutch a well set up auto is easy to drive and CONSISTENT.
#14
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If you want to race with out doing all the modifications follow these rules
1st is called power braking, its where you put one foot on the bake and one on the gas. Find a happy rpm range to let off the brake with minimum wheel spin. This is the most important step.
2nd apply as much throttle as you can with out losing traction until the pedal meets the floor, then keep on the floor.
3rd manually shift the transmission since you are familiar with shifting gears. BE VERY SURE YOU DO NOT PUSH THE SHIFTER INTO REVERSE, PARK OR NEUTRAL. And remember to keep you right foot as far down as possible.
These steps also work with modified transmissions. Best of luck to you.
1st is called power braking, its where you put one foot on the bake and one on the gas. Find a happy rpm range to let off the brake with minimum wheel spin. This is the most important step.
2nd apply as much throttle as you can with out losing traction until the pedal meets the floor, then keep on the floor.
3rd manually shift the transmission since you are familiar with shifting gears. BE VERY SURE YOU DO NOT PUSH THE SHIFTER INTO REVERSE, PARK OR NEUTRAL. And remember to keep you right foot as far down as possible.
These steps also work with modified transmissions. Best of luck to you.