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Rear End Yoke Trouble......

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Old 03-22-2012, 07:18 PM
  #21  
champs65
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king bubba the 8th
I don't know why but that's the funniest thing I've read in a long time. Probably too much 80 degree March sun on my forehead today.

OP, pretty sure I have a good used rear cover cheap if you need one. Let me know and I'll find it.
Old 03-22-2012, 07:47 PM
  #22  
BKbroiler
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Originally Posted by zwede
The second one.
Old 03-22-2012, 07:54 PM
  #23  
tracdogg2
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Drive the fork parallel to the crossmember along side the bushing, not into it. In the pic you have the fork on the left side of the bushing. Switch it to the right side, of the pic not the car.
Mike
Old 03-22-2012, 08:10 PM
  #24  
tracdogg2
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Looking at the pic in #8 there's one small problem with the stub axle bending the shaft. It's 90 degrees off. This is proof positive that you shouldn't rotate the carrier with the lock bolt loose and the shaft hanging out of the carrier.
Mike
Old 03-26-2012, 10:44 PM
  #25  
mayor28
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Mega update! I got the diff out of the car this weekend. Had a lot of help from my father in law....we could not get the left side bushing to release! Ended up drilling out the rubber bushing to get the cross member to drop. Here are some pics of that carnage:

Rubber shrapnel:


Left side:


Right side:


Left side:


Left side in x-mmbr:


RIght side in x-mmbr:


Busings out:




Diff and x-mmbr:



And here some pics of the half shafts:







I borrowed an engine stand from the corvette club president, and got it opened up tonight:









I found the broken piece of the cover:



From here:





And is this a serial? Is it coded to the diff/engine?



Reads "3735390 GM 11 37 12 75 2" some sort of date code?

I don't know if you can really tell anything until the gears are pulled, or at least degreased, but here it is! I feel a lot of accomplishment getting this out with minimal help up until the very end.

Now to commence the disassembly!
Old 03-27-2012, 08:34 AM
  #26  
redvetracr
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Originally Posted by mayor28

Reads "3735390 GM 11 37 12 75 2" some sort of date code?
3735390 is the GM part number for the ring gear
11 37 is the tooth count, making it a 3:36
12 75 2 is the date, Dec 2 1975
Old 03-27-2012, 10:02 AM
  #27  
Mike Ward
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Gee- no bent pin. How about that.

Mayor28, remember what I said about Pandoara's box?
Old 03-27-2012, 10:23 AM
  #28  
Steve2147
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Gee- no bent pin. How about that.

Mayor28, remember what I said about Pandoara's box?
You're thinking he shouldn't have opened the box?

Steve g
Old 03-27-2012, 08:38 PM
  #29  
mayor28
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Is there anything to watch out for when I start to disassemble the diff?
Old 03-27-2012, 08:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mayor28
Is there anything to watch out for when I start to disassemble the diff?
Mark the caps as to side and orientation and carrier shims as to side. Note the shims and positions when you disassemble the pinion. The preferred method of removing the carrier is to use a diff spreader that releases the preload on the carrier brgs. Without it the carrier will be snug. Keep it straight when prying it out. It's reassembling without the spreader that's a treat.

Steve g
Old 03-28-2012, 03:13 PM
  #31  
chstitans42
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Originally Posted by mayor28
I talked with Mike (tracdogg2) the other night for a long time, and he walked me through the options I have once I get the diff out of the car. He also helped me with the next steps of getting the diff itself out.....so here I am with most of the hardware removed and unsure of the next step.....

Thats a very good idea. Honestly Mike can answer any questions you will ever have when it comes to rear ends. If I was you, I would have Mike build you your rear end, and upgrade the gears at the same time. The reason why? When you put it back in your car, you will never have to worry about ever taking it out. His work is that good. I have watched him build a rear end for me and my brother and they work great. Ask anyone on the forum, it is worth your time and money.
Old 04-02-2012, 12:21 AM
  #32  
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The second one!!!!!!!

My guess is that the pickle fork will not work. Maybe, but not on my car when I removed the crossmember. I used a large crow bar. Leveraged the finger of the bar between the crossmember and the frame and used my 200 pound body weight. I broke loose with a big bang.
Old 05-28-2012, 08:28 PM
  #33  
mayor28
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Default Gear Pattern

So I finally got some spare time to get out and check the gear pattern......
I am using Permatex Prussian Blue (which I am not sure if I am using correctly, but I am sure someone will tell me......)

Here is the area I painted:




Painted:




And Patterned:



I am not sure if I supposed to the let the paint cure a little, I know it never dries, but the other pictures I have seen look paler blue.
Old 05-28-2012, 10:14 PM
  #34  
zwede
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Haven't used the stuff you're using, but I think you're putting it on too thick.
Old 05-29-2012, 11:23 AM
  #35  
mayor28
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Originally Posted by zwede
Haven't used the stuff you're using, but I think you're putting it on too thick.
Any suggestions on how to put it on thinner? When I tried to brush it thinner it just wiped itself off the gear face.......
Old 05-29-2012, 12:51 PM
  #36  
zwede
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No idea on that blue stuff, it looks kinda weird? I've always used a yellow paste. It comes in the rebuild kits.
Old 05-29-2012, 01:23 PM
  #37  
tracdogg2
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That is just a tad thick. That's the coast pattern. You need to spin the carrier the other direction to see the drive pattern.
Mike

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Old 05-29-2012, 03:07 PM
  #38  
mayor28
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
That is just a tad thick. That's the coast pattern. You need to spin the carrier the other direction to see the drive pattern.
Mike

Should I be spinning the half shaft yoke to get the patter, or the drivesaft yoke? The ring gear should move clockwise when looking at the teeth side of it, correct?
Old 05-29-2012, 03:28 PM
  #39  
tracdogg2
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Rotate it by the stub axle. Go several revolutions each direction.
Mike
Old 05-29-2012, 09:31 PM
  #40  
mayor28
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Okay, attempt number 3:







What do you think?


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