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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Default Wiring Issues

So I have hit another snag with my recent purchase. There was starting issues when I bought the car, the P.O. told me that the battery was probably dead because the car was sitting....ok. Took the car in, new battery, new ignition switch.......same problem.

The car will start, then when I drive somewhere and turn it off, it won't even turn over, ten min later it will start again. Checked the starter....not the problem, checked the ground....not the problem.

Took it into the Corvette shop I have been using and he said I need to replace all 4 wiring harnesses. I am not opposed to this but right now after new brakes and everything I have already spent an additional $4,000.00 on the car since I bought it three weeks ago and can't spend another $4,000.00 at this time.

Is there a more cost effective work around, I was planning on having the car gutted, new interior and paint next winter.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:09 AM
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we need a more complete description of the problem. does it crank and not catch? is it completely dead? is the heat causing vapor lock? is it flooding? how was the starter checked?
i doubt that you all new wiring harnesses because this is your only problem (i hope). as a test connect a remote start switch to the starter and see if that eliminates the problem of hot starts. if the problem persists, it's not the harness.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
we need a more complete description of the problem. does it crank and not catch? is it completely dead? is the heat causing vapor lock? is it flooding? how was the starter checked?
i doubt that you all new wiring harnesses because this is your only problem (i hope). as a test connect a remote start switch to the starter and see if that eliminates the problem of hot starts. if the problem persists, it's not the harness.
It is completely dead, put the key in, the door buzzer will go off but when you turn the key over nada, it kills all the electronics and everything......then 10 min later it will fire up just fine.

The starter was checked with the diode (probe), as soon as he hit the starter with the probe it would fire up.

I just got off the phone with my mechanic and he is going to pull the fuze block to see what kind of corrosion there is and hopefully there isn't any melted plastic. If he is able he is going to salvage some terminals from other harnessed and swap them out. **fingers crossed**
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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Sounds like heat soak. Is the starter shield in place?
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Sounds like heat soak. Is the starter shield in place?
Not quite sure, the engine was rebuilt, I will have to call him and ask.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 75_Stinger
The car will start, then when I drive somewhere and turn it off, it won't even turn over, ten min later it will start again. Checked the starter....not the problem, checked the ground....not the problem..
Sounds like it might be the starter solenoid ..... or relay......
Maybe a little over simplified but have had issues with battery connections not being tight enough.....postitive and ground Just sayin.

Last edited by 73Corvette; Mar 29, 2012 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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as mike said it couild be heat soak of the solenoid. it could be a doa new battery. it could be low alternator output or a slow battery drain causing the completely dead symptoms. i'd clean and tighten all the connections-battery, chassis ground, starter, and engine grounds.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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Just got off the phone with the mechanic, there was bad connections from the harness into the fuse block. He pulled it and said its the first time in 20 years he pulled one that wasn't damaged or melted. He is going to clean it, treat it and add some new terminals.

I guess I dodged a bullet there, only going to run about $1,000 for that and my gauge consol stereo/speaker install and not an additional $4,000 for new harnesses.

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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Just a heads up for future work.

95% of the repairs on these cars can be performed by any experienced mechanic. A specific corvette shop is not needed.
From your parts list and last post, you may be able to save some cash on repairs.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
...
i'd clean and tighten all the connections-battery, chassis ground, starter, and engine grounds.
This was my first thought: harness connections that have not been apart or cleaned in ages. Think: ignition switch near bottom of steering column and fuse-box.

Originally Posted by 75_Stinger
Just got off the phone with the mechanic, there was bad connections from the harness into the fuse block. He pulled it and said its the first time in 20 years he pulled one that wasn't damaged or melted. He is going to clean it, treat it and add some new terminals.

I guess I dodged a bullet there, only going to run about $1,000 for that and my gauge consol stereo/speaker install and not an additional $4,000 for new harnesses.

Oh good. Hopefully, his experience had him look for bad connections and that gets you back up and steady running. Let us know how that ends.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 75_Stinger
Just got off the phone with the mechanic, there was bad connections from the harness into the fuse block. He pulled it and said its the first time in 20 years he pulled one that wasn't damaged or melted. He is going to clean it, treat it and add some new terminals.

I guess I dodged a bullet there, only going to run about $1,000 for that and my gauge consol stereo/speaker install and not an additional $4,000 for new harnesses.

Sooooooooo now what are you going to spend the additional $4,000 on?
It's kinda like you saved that much right?
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
Sooooooooo now what are you going to spend the additional $4,000 on?
It's kinda like you saved that much right?
Haha well after I got my taxes back my car budget was $10,000. Well after purchase of the car and brakes, battery, stereo and today's repairs that has caused me to go over that $10,000 budget by a little.

My fiance is pretty damn amazing (which is why I am marrying her), let me temporarilly borrow a little from the wedding budget, so if anything else goes wrong with the car between now and August.....I am SOL.

Her family owns a hot rod shop in Illinois (Getz Hot Rods), I was thinking about talking to them at the wedding about having the car re-done, would be the best wedding present I could think of....lol.

Ohh and about the mechanic pricing, I have to shop around a bit, the shop I have been using speacalize in C3s and is $105/hour, it is worth it to have that expertise at my disposal and I am told around $100 an hour is pretty standard in the Northern Virginia area.

Last edited by 75_Stinger; Mar 29, 2012 at 11:56 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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I was starting to wonder if your mechanic was suggesting the car had been in a flood or fire or some other condition that would require such drastic re-wiring. Glad to hear its working out.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Just got a call, the car is running perfect again, it was the wiring running into the fuse block. He is just finishing up the CD player install and going to button up the dash and I could have it back tonight, just in time to enjoy it this weekend.....YAY!

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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why would a poor connection at the fuse box cause a hot start problem???
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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Everything is good to go now, bad connections from the harness to the fuse block were the problem. The car is FINALLY running the way it is supposed to. Hopefully i will be able to keep the car on the road for more than three days in a row since I owned it.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
why would a poor connection at the fuse box cause a hot start problem???
Probably voltage drop at the purple wire connection.

When the wiper tray bonding seam cracks, most often water will drip directly on the fuse panel inside.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Probably voltage drop at the purple wire connection.

When the wiper tray bonding seam cracks, most often water will drip directly on the fuse panel inside.
Good reason to keep it in the dry--
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