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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Default Thats the brakes

My 1975 break pedal goes to the floor. NP its new to me and i want to re-due the break system. The is some kits out there to replace all the calipers and lines and master cylinder. When replacing the calipers should i go for stock,sleeved, all stainless or aluminum? ALuminum are pretty expensive. What do you guys suggest? Want to start ordering parts. Was thinking of replacing them so I know what I have and not out there every couple months working on them. Also thinking about stainless lines instead of the stock rubber ones. Don't have a large wallet.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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Well to be honest it depends on what your gonna do with it. If its just gonna be a weekend toy no need for super expensive aluminum. unless that is what you want on your car. The experts will jump in shortly with why this over that. I rebuilt mine on this an many other cars an have always been happy with the results

Last edited by jesse10886; Mar 30, 2012 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jay_c3
...What do you guys suggest?...
I suggest you do some digging and learn exactly what you're going to be up against. Based on what you posted, you've never worked on these cars.

A little homework on your part, and you'll learn you do not need stainless steel brake lines. Keep that money in your pocket.

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
I suggest you do some digging and learn exactly what you're going to be up against. Based on what you posted, you've never worked on these cars.

A little homework on your part, and you'll learn you do not need stainless steel brake lines. Keep that money in your pocket.


especially on the stainless steel lines, waste of money.

Originally Posted by jay_c3
Want to start ordering parts....... Don't have a large wallet.
There two statements disagree with each other. Find out what's broken first.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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i replaced mine with oem an they are just fine

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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OE or aftermarket parts the same as OE has been successful for 18 years with lip seals....65-82....stainless sleeved calipers would be the exception rather than using your old calipers to rebuild......the problem with all brake systems is that the brake fluid absorbs water forming rust over time that cuts the rubber seals and scores the bores of the calipers....'O rings are not the answer....If parts are necessary, stick with the OE style available every where
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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If you haven't did vette brakes before your in for a special treat!
Look at some sponsers on here or google vette brakes and buy a stock SS sleeved set of calipers and a master cylinder and some stock rubber lines.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Check out the kit prices from some of the Forum sponsors. They have good prices on complete kits with all 4 calipers, master cylinder, and hoses. This also helps with ordering the correct master cylinder for your car. There are a couple of different master cylinder designs that local part stores may not recognize and will carry a generic GM master cylinder.

From my experience doing the brakes on my 72 and 75, it is better to replace everything at once. That way you will know what was replaced, and will not have to second guess about replacing a part later.

And be prepared to bleed the brakes. It takes a lot of time to do this correctly with vette brakes, and leads to a lot of frustration.

Use the search function to find out specific problems that may occur.

kdf
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Diagnose 1st; spend 2nd. If you pedal goes to the floor, you might need only a bleeding. Many C3's already have stainless sleeved calipers. If so, all you need is a rebuild; perhaps using O-Ring pistons. I would buy or borrow a Motive Bleeder and find a buddy who has done brakes before. Get you hands dirty and have fun!
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Diagnose 1st; spend 2nd. If you pedal goes to the floor, you might need only a bleeding. Many C3's already have stainless sleeved calipers. If so, all you need is a rebuild; perhaps using O-Ring pistons. I would buy or borrow a Motive Bleeder and find a buddy who has done brakes before. Get you hands dirty and have fun!
Smart....especially if money is tight. Not everyone has a big piggy bank to pull from. Once you see where you're at, you may find it's a quick fix. I find, trying to rebuild the original equipment(whenever possible) is usually not only the cheapest way - but I learn how to maintain my own vehicle. That's why this place is so invaluable to a guy like me. I plan on having my car for a very long time; maybe even adding to my stable next year, if the right deal comes along. Once the problem is diagnosed, start a new thread on the most COST EFFECTIVE way to get you back on the road - ultimately that's what we all want. Good Luck and welcome.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the input. No i'm not racing so ALUMINUM is out. I saw in Vette magazine an ad for Muskegon brake had 1967-82 stainless steel super kit complete bolt on brake job. $399.00 includes New master cylinder,4 stainless sleeved calipers,2 quarts silicone brake fluid,4 New Rubber Brake hoses,New copper inlet washers brake clips. and a few other things with exchange of rebuildable cores. dont look bad to me. May go ahead and do the rotors. Anyone delt with these guys?

Yes I work on cars. I put a 350 in a pontiac Fiero, but darn these vettes are tight. Took me 2 days to do spark pugs and wires.

Last edited by jay_c3; Mar 31, 2012 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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That was a june 2011 ad and now the same kit is over $600 without master cylinder.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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A lot of good information on the forum here. My advice, do a complete job with good replacement parts. Don't try to nickel and dime it and replace one or two componentsat a time. You'll chase problems forever. A properly performing Corvette brake system is awesome.
-Bill
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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A 'smart move would be to buy your brake parts locally and avoid shipping heavy cores to whoever and just exchange them at the local parts house plus save a couple of hundred for your self...the parts are the same wherever purchased...just the price is different....
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jay_c3
Thanks for the input. No i'm not racing so ALUMINUM is out. I saw in Vette magazine an ad for Muskegon brake had 1967-82 stainless steel super kit complete bolt on brake job. $399.00 includes New master cylinder,4 stainless sleeved calipers,2 quarts silicone brake fluid,4 New Rubber Brake hoses,New copper inlet washers brake clips. and a few other things with exchange of rebuildable cores. dont look bad to me. May go ahead and do the rotors.
Still the same price. Let me know if I can help!

Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_c3
Thanks for the input. No i'm not racing so ALUMINUM is out. I saw in Vette magazine an ad for Muskegon brake had 1967-82 stainless steel super kit complete bolt on brake job. $399.00 includes New master cylinder,4 stainless sleeved calipers,2 quarts silicone brake fluid,4 New Rubber Brake hoses,New copper inlet washers brake clips. and a few other things with exchange of rebuildable cores. dont look bad to me. May go ahead and do the rotors. Anyone delt with these guys?

Yes I work on cars. I put a 350 in a pontiac Fiero, but darn these vettes are tight. Took me 2 days to do spark pugs and wires.
Mine had the original rotors still on it, if yours are original you are going to have to drill out the rivets that attach them to the hub/axle.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
A 'smart move would be to buy your brake parts locally and avoid shipping heavy cores to whoever and just exchange them at the local parts house plus save a couple of hundred for your self...the parts are the same wherever purchased...just the price is different....
I replaced all my calipers years ago with remans from O'Reilly Auto. Lifetime warranty. I noticed one start just barely weeping around one of the pistons when I redid my rubber lines this year, took it back with the receipt, gave me a new one no questions asked. At this point pretty much all of the ones you are going to get from the parts stores will be sleeved and I like being able to drive 5 mins to get a new part for free rather than calling across the country and shipping something back.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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[QUOTE=jay_c3;1580432718]Thanks for the input. No i'm not racing so ALUMINUM is out. I saw in Vette magazine an ad for Muskegon brake had 1967-82 stainless steel super kit complete bolt on brake job. $399.00 includes New master cylinder,4 stainless sleeved calipers,2 quarts silicone brake fluid,4 New Rubber Brake hoses,New copper inlet washers brake clips. and a few other things with exchange of rebuildable cores. dont look bad to me.

G'day,

Muskegon has a pretty good reputation with Corvette brakes, but I'd be wary about using silicon. Leave that stuff for the flat chested ladies. DOT 4 is what you need, it is less hygroscopic than DOT 3 and has a higher BP, IIRC. So $400 for a new MC and four SS-sleeved calipers plus hoses is too good a deal to knock back. Just make sure you ask for DOT 4 fluid.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:50 AM
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Thanks muskegonbrake I going to hopefully get to check out the brakes this weekend, weather permitted. I'm going to check out the rotors and pads, first before i decide to order. Looks like a great deal and thanks aussiejohn.

Question on dot 4 will it eat paint and does it keep out moisture
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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I had new SS calipers and rotors put on the front with a new master cylnder and all new lines....well your entire braking system is only as good as the weakest link. My brake pedal was going all the way to the floor yesterday, I brought it back in and one of the rear calipers was shot as well. Luckily my guy cut me a deal, so I would tell you that if you are going to do your calipers, do them all and save yourself having to deal with the brakes twice.
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