My friend's uncle is selling his 75 Corvette, its in good condition, auto. All original with matching numbers, 108k, yellow color with black interior. He's asking $9k. any info or opinions would be great.

 

Where to start???
Oh yes, no pic, no opinion, no sale.
How about putting it in the C3 fore sale section on this site, but say its yours because you can't sell someone else's car car on here.

 

Have your friend's uncle join the forum and post in the For Sale section. He'll need pics. Coupe or convertible?

 

I want to buy it not sell it for him. I want to know if $9k, is a good price? Given the description I mentioned. Again, I want to buy this vette, and I just want some info!!

 

What info do you want exactly?

How about you give us some more info, include some pics.., then we can go from there.

 

Hi Payton,

Tell us about some of the options it has. Is it a coupe or a convertible? L48 or L82? Here is a good list to go off of. http://www.rogerscorvette.com/specs/75.htm

If you need help identifying these options, just ask.

I'd verify that "matching numbers" yourself. This means alot to many here, but most importantly make sure the VIN derivative matches the engine pad.

Here's an example:



My opinion, $9,000 for an automatic (and assuming L48 coupe) is too much. In 2001, I purchased my L-82 4-speed coupe for $6500. Paint was rough, but it ran well.

 

As others have mentioned, post some pics and give more information.

In comparison I sold my yellow '75 L48 in November to a good friend for $6K. Yellow paint was original and a 6 or 7 out of 10. Standard interior was easily a 9 out of 10. 82K miles. Auto, A/C, PS/PB/PW, Tilt/Telescopic and Gymkhana suspension. Everything worked to perfection including the A/C. Front and rear bumper covers were replaced with Trueflex units and professionally painted (very important and expensive). Mods...B&M shift kit, emissions removed, Headman Headers with Allens true dual exhaust. Modern stereo system.
It was a turn-key, drive it and enjoy it car which is what he's been doing since buying it. All original parts such as emissions equipment, manifolds and radio were included with the car. He also received a stack of receipts totalling thousands of dollars over the 12 years I owned the car.

Imo $9K is way too much for a '75 unless it's mint with under 50K miles or a convertible. Also keep in mind that it's a pig when it comes to weight and in stock form the L48 puts out a pathetic 165 HP. Coupled to an automatic, you'll get your *** handed to you by the average minivan.

 

The wimpy 165HP engine is a very easy problem to fix . Especially if you don't have to worry about emissions.

 

I bought my '75 less than a year ago. As best I can tell it had a partial restoration around 12 years ago. Paint is still near perfect (with the usual chips from seeing some road time), around 10K miles on the rebuilt engine and trans. Not sure what all was done to the engine, but it has been warmed up a little... I'm guessing 300-325 hp range. Interior is in really good shape (new door panels and seats). The only items that really needed attention were the "custom" dash and digital gauges, the 12 year old aftermarket radio, and the headlights didn't pop up ($40 to repair the acutators). It needed the usual tires and tune up, but otherwise is a solid reliable driver.

I paid $4,600 for it... and could have had a good reliable driver after dropping another $2,000 in parts (tires were $750), but I wanted a few other things, so I'm in for a total of $7,000. Hope that helps with your decision...

 

It's your $9K. Good luck.

 

Payton,
Need pics and options. Normal 75 coupe is probably less than 9K but without knowing condition, options, etc., hard to tell. Good luck.

 

Payton-

Probably not the responses you expected when you posted - - this is a very thorough group but in all honesty, in order to provide any meaningful feedback on whether or not it's a good purchase- they're right- more info required- especially photos.

75's in and of themselves are good C-3's, but they're the first year of power-robbing emission equipment and generally have less value than other years. But that said, they can still be great cars if you pick the right one!

Where you're located is also really important as it's generally the key to issues like rust in the frame and "birdcage"- the windshield area and supports as well as the rear 'kick-up" in front of the back wheels. Take a good look at the visible body mounts to the rear of the back tire- if it's heavily corroded, that's an indicator of some of the other things you'll face. So-- why not put your location in your profile- it helps.

Finally, things like "good condition" are pretty subjective and opinions are greatly assisted by good quality (non-cellphone) photos of the car- front/back, sides, engine bay and interior.

Here's "How to post pictures" from the Help forum: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/help...es-thread.html Cliff's notes: Get a free Photobucket account for on-line photo hosting- upload photos-- click on and copy "direct link" . . edit your original post (or start a new one) and click on the little yellow icon (insert image) and past the url into the line you'll see. If you have any problems- one of us can help.

So there- pretty knowledgeable folks here that will assist in evaluating your prospective purchase given the right tools and information- they just need a bit of help from you on the details.

Good luck-

 

How it "looks" is not nearly as important as "does it have rust?" or "is it fully functional?". That car, without being able to test it out for good functionality, may be worth about $4-5000. If you verify that it does not have any significant rust in the frame/birdcage in critical areas, and that the mechanicals are in good condition, that car's value might increase to $6500-7500. Then, if the paint is in very good condition, you might even have a car with up to $9000 value.

Without seeing the car, it's value can range from $2500 to $9000.

 

The OP hasn't been back to the forum since his last post in this thread - -I'd guess we spooked him off !

 

Here's a taste of what "Matching Numbers" means, and my list isn't done yet. Not that big a deal on a '75 to some, but still...

Mark

1971 Chevrolet Corvette Sport Coupe (37)

VIN - 194371S106XXX
Body Build Date - Jan 9, 1971 (F09)
Ontario Orange (987)
Deluxe Black Leather Interior (403)
Power Windows (A31)
Air Conditioning (C60)
Power Brakes (J50)
Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column (N37)
Power Steering (N40)
F70-15” White Lettered Nylon Tires (PU9)
AM-FM Radio (U69)
Four Speed Wide-Ratio Base Transmission (ZW4)
Custom Interior with Leather Trim

350 Cu.-In. Turbo Fire 350 V-8 270hp
4-Speed (2.52:1 low) 3.36 Rear
Engine Casting - 3970010 Date - L120
Engine Stamp Pad - C11S106XXX V1229 CJL
(St Louis Assembly Plant, Flint Engine Plant, Dec 29 1970 - 350/270 4-Speed)
Axle Code - LRW 213E2
(Warren Axle Plant, Julian Date 213, Eaton Positraction, 2nd shift)
Muncie M20 HD 4-Speed (3925661) - P1T21A (Dec 21 1970) C11S106XXX
Cylinder Heads - 3973487 Date - L280
Intake Manifold - 3973469
Exhaust Manifolds - 3846559 (RH) 3989036 (LH)
Carburetor - Rochester MV4 - 7041213 DM Date 2310
Distributor - 1112050
Coil - 1115270
Water Pump - Not Original
Alternator - Not Original
Starter Motor - Not Original
Windshield Wiper Motor - 7044758
Windshield Glass LOF Date - AT (Sep 1970)
Passenger Door Glass LOF Date - VT (Dec 1970)
Driver Door Glass LOF Date - Not Original
Removable Rear Window LOF Date - AT (Sep 1970)
Lap Seat Belts - C-13 48L90 Not Original
Shoulder Seat Belts - C-24 34B70
Brake Master Cylinder - Not Original
Horn (1) - 9000245 03H (Aug 1970)
Radiator Fan - 3991427 H70 (Aug 1970)
Radiator Fan Clutch - 9 15 70 SC

 

Bought my '75 two years ago for $7,500.00. Car was painted in 2006 base coat clear coat Victory Red. Receipts for paint job showed $4,400.00. Engine had been rebuilt with new Edelbrock heads, cam, intake, and carb. Hooker super comp headers into true dual exhaust with series 40 Flowmmasters. New brakes and suspension. Door panels were also new as was the carpeting. The car was originally a bright blue on silver car and it had 73,000 miles on it when I bought it. I have since replaced the seat foam, seat covers, sill plates, and a few other items. I am about to replace the dash, pillar moldings, header molding, and gauge bezel. This was a Kentucky car with no frame or birdcage issues. Just posting this as a reference to my '75 story to give an idea of what can be bought in that price range.

 

I paid 6,500 for my '75 back in 1995. It was under 50K and i got from original owner. With that said i wish i had this forums advise then i put interior,paint, bumpers, and may misc parts over the years. for the work i put in probably could have picked up a cheaper one. It runs like a dream always has even with the low HP rating. Remember parts are costly but for me it has always been a labor of love. For 9.000 it should need next to nothing for a "75. Don't rush look around. Just my opinion.

 

1975 matching numbers with high miles is still definitely not worth $9000.00 without any major provenance.

I purchased my 1976 for 3K with 120K and a rebuilt L-82 motor.
Needed paint job, seat covers, rug, (2) bumpers.

At 3K I probably paid too much.

As the other posters mentioned take some pics and place them up.
There are some very knowledgeable folks here that will give you some damn good advice.

 

He's asking about 3K too much. Maybe more depending on condition.

 

I would check Kelly Blue Book for the value also.