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Door Locks

Old Apr 15, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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Default Door Locks

On my 81 I never locked the doors because every time I unlocked the doors, it took so much effort that I was concerned I was going to break the key in the lock. I hit nearly everything with WD40 with no success. This problem is with both the drivers and passenger doors.

If I hit the lock / unlock button the doors lock and unlock so I figured everything was plugged in and working.

I purchased a rebuild kit for my windows so I can quiet all the raddling and figured while I was in there I replace the door locks hoping that would help.

After I pulled the door panels off I noticed something interesting.

On the passenger door there is a what seems like an actuator that goes around the door lock and has a plug into it.

On the drives side, there is a plug but there is no actuator around the lock so it looks like somebody removed it and never replaced it.

When I go to Eklers to find a replacement I find "Corvette Power Door Lock Actuator, Electric, 1978-1984 Replacement Actuator"
Part Number 27081

But it doesn’t look like the one on the passenger side. Now granted it’s not easy to see though the 4x3 inch area that I can view it.

Is this the correct part?

Thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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I had the same problem with not being able to unlock it very easily. I just disconnected the actuator and it was fine after that
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Understand but would still like to replace it if this is the correct part.
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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I think it is the right part
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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Just an alternative for you.....I went to Best Buy and for less than $100.00 installed (Yes I was watching every second) they put in a keyless entry system for me. Works great=Pete
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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Anybody have a good schematic of the lock assembly they could share?

Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TO_Vette
...Anybody have a good schematic of the lock assembly they could share?...
The assembly instruction manual (AIM) shows it. The 27081 at Eckler's looks like the correct one.

Last edited by Easy Mike; Apr 16, 2012 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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So I have a few more clues but that only brings up more questions.

On the passenger side door the item around the door lock looks like this:




On the drivers side it looks like this:




If I go to Ecklers the only item they have looks like this:



When I talked with them they said they haven't seen this before.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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I'm wondering if what you have around the passenger door lock is part of an aftermarket alarm system, that maybe is non functioning now? I found door alarm wiring in the driver's door on mine.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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I'm the second owner and know the guy I purcahsed the car from. I asked him and he said he remembers changing locks once but not installing any alarms.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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That looks like a switch that's activated with you turn the key, not a lock/unlock actuator.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Exactly, but I can't seem to find the part for the switch that is activated when you turn the key.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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That is part of the factory alarm harness. You can buy them for about $25 each side.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Ahh. now that makes sense.

So back to my orginal question. My door locks are fairly hard to unlock. I've WD40'ed everything from the lock, all the rods to the lock assembly. Is this a typical problem?

Thanks
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TO_Vette
Ahh. now that makes sense.

So back to my orginal question. My door locks are fairly hard to unlock. I've WD40'ed everything from the lock, all the rods to the lock assembly. Is this a typical problem?

Thanks
I also have the same problem and also wonder about breaking off the door key inside. But, when I keep mine WD40'd, the alarm system does open and close the lock. But the key is always stiff.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Just a thought....are you using the original key or are you using a duplicate key? Sometimes the cuts on a duplicate key are a bit off and while they do open the lock it could be a bit stiff....Pete
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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My 81 has the same problem. Using power locks generally doesn't work, manually locking/unlocking from inside requires vice-grip strength, and using the key runs the risk of snapping it off. After some research, I found that the problem may actually be with old power lock actuators. I'll try to find the source, or at least cite for reference.

I was skeptical at first, but the article referenced all the problems I stated above. Anyway, everything indicates that by changing out the actuators, locking the doors both manually and by power switches will be improved.

I haven't had the chance to do this change for myself yet (next on the list), but from what I found, this points to being the solution we're looking for. Good luck.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Forgot to add that the "nub-thing" in your pics for the passenger side should also be on the driver side - at least it's there on my 81. It has to do with the factory alarm and being able to arm/disarm from the door locks via key.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 09:39 PM
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I've had a similar problem with the door locks being very hard to operate manually on my power lock doors. What I found was if I disconnected the linkage from the power actuator, it was not hard to turn the key any more. My resolution was to oil the shaft on the lock actuator so it slides in and out easily. It made all the difference in the world.
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