Alternator
Once it's apart, everything will test (except for the regulator) with a common multimeter.
5/16 socket for the case, 3/8 socket for the stator to bridge nuts. 1/4 socket to remove the bolts for the diode trio, regulator and brush holder. THe rear case bearing drives out with a punch, the front one has 3 bolts holding it in after you get the rotor out. Pay attention to how it comes apart and it'll go back together the same way.
it would be a good learning curve
i just don't trust myself - its the putting back together that scares me lol
thanks for yer help
I have no idea where you're located but do you have a rebuilder that can rebuild your alternator or can you get a replacement? If you're in my area I can give you a couple places. If so do you know how to change it, if not and you're close I can change if for you.
Let me know.
Frank
I have no idea where you're located but do you have a rebuilder that can rebuild your alternator or can you get a replacement? If you're in my area I can give you a couple places. If so do you know how to change it, if not and you're close I can change if for you.
Let me know.
Frank
Thank-you for that kind offer.
I live just south of The Science Center.
I just went down & checked under the hood...all the connections are tight & it looks like,remove a few bolts & its off
Thursday is my day off , i'll ride over to Canadian Tire on Laird & see if i can buy a replacement
I notice there is a small sticker on this one that says " remanufactured " & a date i can not read, so it appears this is not the original alternator
if it ain't raining , i will be fine, if it is raining i won't melt lol
thanks again bud !
Pete.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Members these days upgrate to the CS144 and go with around 140 amp but that's a story for another day since you'll have to upgrade your wiring also.
Let me know if you need any help and remember to disconnect the battery first, unless you're very comfortable with what you're doing.
EDIT:
That just reminded me that Wayne (Motorhead) and Les (AGVI) did the swap to CS144 alternator and probably have there existing 1980-82 alternators, check with them. I think Les is online right now and they're both in Mississauga.
Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; May 2, 2012 at 09:38 PM.
installed the new alternator this am....charged battery all day...went down & installed battery...dome lights, horn & head lights work but when i turn key , no power...suspect i have a fuse prob...will check tomorrow
When you say no power, does this mean no headlights, horn, radio etc, or no power to the starter only?
I know this seems silly but if you have power to everthing else except the starter the first thing I would check is to be sure it's in park, yours is auto right?
I also know that chances of this is unlikely but I was thinking maybe the safety nuetral switch.
I can't remember if there is a fuse or relay for the starter or ignition.
Check the electrical connections to see if there is good contact.
When you say no power, does this mean no headlights, horn, radio etc, or no power to the starter only?
I know this seems silly but if you have power to everthing else except the starter the first thing I would check is to be sure it's in park, yours is auto right?
I also know that chances of this is unlikely but I was thinking maybe the safety nuetral switch.
I can't remember if there is a fuse or relay for the starter or ignition.
Check the electrical connections to see if there is good contact.
If the battery cables are loose they will sometimes operated the lights but not crank the car.
When you say no power, does this mean no headlights, horn, radio etc, or no power to the starter only?
I know this seems silly but if you have power to everthing else except the starter the first thing I would check is to be sure it's in park, yours is auto right?
I also know that chances of this is unlikely but I was thinking maybe the safety nuetral switch.
I can't remember if there is a fuse or relay for the starter or ignition.
Check the electrical connections to see if there is good contact.
checked fuses again , tried to pull a few but alas i need a fuse puller or needle nose pliers ( my back is sore now from all the bs...underground garage is like an oven,because of the humidity...very dark & slippery floor)
Nancy wondered where the h i was when she got up but she noticed
my shoes missing lol
it is in park , tried moving steering wheel up/down , horn works , dome light head light work arggg
will go back down after a few coffees & a shower
pain in *** because i live on the 35th floor
Les got back to me & has a chrome alternator for sale ...figures after i just spent over 100 at Can Tire
is there a fuse somewhere between battery & starter (other than the blasted fuse box,drivers side firewall ?
Last edited by Spocc; May 4, 2012 at 08:35 AM.
i hate electrical demons because i have no formal training just flyin by seat of pants & what may or may not be logical
i'll keep at it because i hate to be beaten
horn works , dome light works & head lights work....
i'm thinking , the last time i turned the key , when the old alternator was in the car maybe a fuse blew ???
maybe this neutral safety switch thing (does it have a fuse ?)
because all i did was purchase a new alternator, install it & charge the battery
turn key & nothing , no click nothing but dome light & horn still works ?
Sorry but Mick has my car so I'm not able to come and help as Cathy has the other car.
The purpose of a safety nuetral switch is to dissengage power to the starter when the shifter is in any gear to prevent accidental starting while in gear. Sometimes when this particular switch starts to wear you can still start the car by turning the key ignition to the start/on position (as if to engage the starter) at the same time move the shifter up and down between park and drive, if the switch is worn there is a chance the car will still start.
Yes there should be either a fuse at the fuse box or an inline fuse, inline fuses are actualy in the middle of a wire run. I can't remember if your year has one.
Pete, did you disconnect the battery when you changed the alternator, reason I ask is maybe something got grounded if it wasn't disconnected and shorted?
If you don't mind can you also double check the connections on the rear of the alternator, there should be a harness and another wire that's bolted on.
If you're able, can you check for power to the starter, in order to do this you will either have to get a multimeter, or cross the terminals on the starter solenoid and just above the starter where the wires connect to? It's on the passenger side rear of the motor. You can see it at the bottom just in between the engine and transmission. If you have a multimeter, see if someone can engage the starter via the key and check for power to the starter.
When you said, "this car has done this to me before" are you refering to this particular problem or reliablility in general?













