Alternator
If not, then check fuseable links at the starter bat terminal (large).
If so, then check with a test lite or multimeter the purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid for power, or you can reach down and short the solenoid bat terminal (large) to the small solenoid terminal (with the ignition off). It should crank and not start. Doing this with the key ON, it should start. With key on, make sure it's in neutral or park.
If no power to the purple start wire at the solenoid, then backtrack to the neutral switch, then the ign switch.
If using a voltmeter, there should be no more than 1volt drop from battery voltage to the solenoid purple.
If more, then you have bad switches or connections/wires.
If you can get the solenoid to at least click with proper voltage, then you have other issues to pursue.
Sorry but Mick has my car so I'm not able to come and help as Cathy has the other car.
The purpose of a safety nuetral switch is to dissengage power to the starter when the shifter is in any gear to prevent accidental starting while in gear. Sometimes when this particular switch starts to wear you can still start the car by turning the key ignition to the start/on position (as if to engage the starter) at the same time move the shifter up and down between park and drive, if the switch is worn there is a chance the car will still start.
Yes there should be either a fuse at the fuse box or an inline fuse, inline fuses are actualy in the middle of a wire run. I can't remember if your year has one.
Pete, did you disconnect the battery when you changed the alternator, reason I ask is maybe something got grounded if it wasn't disconnected and shorted?
If you don't mind can you also double check the connections on the rear of the alternator, there should be a harness and another wire that's bolted on.
If you're able, can you check for power to the starter, in order to do this you will either have to get a multimeter, or cross the terminals on the starter solenoid and just above the starter where the wires connect to? It's on the passenger side rear of the motor. You can see it at the bottom just in between the engine and transmission. If you have a multimeter, see if someone can engage the starter via the key and check for power to the starter.
When you said, "this car has done this to me before" are you refering to this particular problem or reliablility in general?
battery was out of car when i swapped the alternator
going down now to pull a few fuses & check moving shifter when turning key
i have 3 12 hour shifts to do (Friday, Saturday & Sunday 6:30pm-6:30am) at Emergency Dispatch , so i won't be back at this until Monday night
not to worry i have 2 bikes to ride so life is still good lol
thanks Frank
If not, then check fuseable links at the starter bat terminal (large).
If so, then check with a test lite or multimeter the purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid for power, or you can reach down and short the solenoid bat terminal (large) to the small solenoid terminal (with the ignition off). It should crank and not start. Doing this with the key ON, it should start. With key on, make sure it's in neutral or park.
If no power to the purple start wire at the solenoid, then backtrack to the neutral switch, then the ign switch.
If using a voltmeter, there should be no more than 1volt drop from battery voltage to the solenoid purple.
If more, then you have bad switches or connections/wires.
If you can get the solenoid to at least click with proper voltage, then you have other issues to pursue.
where are the fusable links at starter bat terminal ? i'll look for something large
it was the f***ing battery , all along.
the little charger i use has a gauge , which has a red zone, then a green zone.
i had assumed that because it went into the green zone , the battery was ok...doh
thinking about the entire circus act i have been thru in the last week i decided when i got home from work at 7am that just for ***** & giggles i would take my spare boat battery down to the car & even tho the neg /pos connections were not correct i took a couple of vise grips with me....the boat battery , after jury-rigged behind the drivers seat , fired the beast, immediately
so over to Can Tire to get a replacement (it was a Nascar battery purchased 2 years ago, with a 4 year full replacement warranty.
ya hooo !
logical dictates that i need to buy one of those volt-tester gizmos lol
thanks for everyones help on this one & keeping me encouraged to keep at it
Pete.





I missed the original posting of your thread. Glad things worked out for you. I replaced a fuel pump last year only to find all I needed was a new filter. At least you needed both problem parts. Good job, back on the road again!! Take care bud.
Terry
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
maybe i turned in a perfectly good alternator...
But, now i have a new battery & a new alternator & taught myself a new learning curve
thanks Terry, will have to remember the fuel filter thing, if that ever comes my way (car or boat...boat has a 327 4B )
Pete.
you are correct - keep it simple
thanks !
As for your alternator, next time you're at Parts Source or possibly where you purchased the rebuilt have the old alternator tested. If it's good then keep it as a spare or maybe other member maybe in need ot it one day.
thanks again guys !!!
Hope to see you both again this summer.
Hope to see you both again this summer.
Nancy & i would love to cruise with our C3 buds again
yer 72 behind me there...that was a delightful run, lead by a gracious host
i haven't heard from Todd in awhile, everyone else has been on the forum


thats Todd in the #3 car, i've nicked him "the intimidator"
Last edited by Spocc; May 7, 2012 at 01:57 PM. Reason: pics






OOoohh head out on the hiway...





