Forum Member HOOAH generously provided me some black, powder coated Stingray fender emblems this weekend. I'll be replacing the chrome ones on my 75 soon with these new ones and was wondering if any of you could add some what worked for you tips on the process to the list of tips I lifted from archives here.

As always thanks much for the input and time saving expertise. And many thanks to the original posters, with apologies for not crediting you with your previous contributions.

Here are the previous thread suggestions. (Any problems with these? Anything work better?)

Removing and Replacing the Stingray Emblems
REMOVAL
-Use a hair dryer to warm up(not boil) the area and then use a plastic bondo spreader to gently pry the emblem up. Do it a little on one side then move to the opposite side.Then do the middle. Keep going back and forth and your emblem will pop up.
-Also dental floss or fishing line works to separate, hold it tight and run it along slowly.
-There are indeed 4 posts attached to ORIGINAL Stingray emblems and there are 4 holes in the fiberglass that these pins go THRU. There were NO barrel clips used originally to secure the emblem.
The original posts were 3/4 inches long, later service replacement emblems used shorter 1/2 inch posts. There was also an adhesive on the back of the emblems.
-One suggestion, which I tried and worked great, was to use a product called GOO GONE available at Home Depot. Squirt it on, let it sit a minute or two then use a piece of nylon fish line and work it between the emblem and fender. Worked great. I had to replace the emblems, so I wasn't concerned about the foam tape which gets destroyed by the GOO GONE.
-Autobody wholesalers sell the weather safe double sided tape for emblems. It's a lot more expensive than the stuff at the hobby store. Its usually a dark grey color. As far as removing goes, I've done this many times. 9 times out of 10 I'm painting the whole car and i usually just slide a putty knife under but that is risking scratching the paint. In your case, I usually take a razor blade or one of those knives that you can extend the blade really far, then cut the double sided tape and begin lifting the script and cutting it as you go. Don't worry about leaving the glue/tape on the car, the more you leave the less chance of scratching the paint. Once the emblem is off, go back and remove the gunk with a chemical. make sure it is safe to use on paint. I've gotten away with using gasoline.... but its a good idea to wax it as soon as you get it clean. (unless your painting, then wax is bad, paint won't stick).

APPLICATION
-You definitely need some adhesive “cushion” between the metal of the emblem and the fiberglass and paint of the body.
-3M trim cement works great. (Damage to paint?)
-If you're going to use a couple of speed nuts I'd think a thin bead of black silicone that you let set up before you put the script on would work.
-Not so sure I want to go the route of silicone sealant; it might pull the paint off with the next removal.
-Silicone caulk (pure) will also hold forever without damaging the paint.
-The factory emblem only had adhesive, the pins are for alignment only no speed nuts!

 

Warming the emblems up a bit might be a good thing to do...but I would recommend using waxed dental floss to cut through the adhesive, instead of trying to "pry" them off. Just pull off about a foot [or so] of dental floss, wind ends around two fingers of each hand, and use it like a 'saw' to cut the adhesive loose. The floss will do no damage to your paint.

 

Dental floss may take a little more time, but it works great and no damage.