Cracked fuel line. Replacement options please
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 747
Likes: 54
From: Dunmore PA
Cracked fuel line. Replacement options please
The '69 im working on has been off the road for many years. Looks like the fuel line had some water in it and froze creating a nice bubble and crack. I want to replace from tank to pump both lines. I have read some posts and looks like its possible to do with frame on. Can I just ur the lines nd hold downs off to get to bolts? Can't see how I could get a wrench in there. I did try te body mounts the front four came loose the others no luck. Anybody finish this project and willing to share some tips?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
You can get the clips off with a open end wrench. Some say they have replaced the lines with pre-bent steel lines with a considerable amount of effort. Its the bend up at the back of the frame where it arches (wheel well) that causes problems. I bent my own using 3/8th aluminum fuel line from Summit Racing and 1/4th for the return line. Worked well for me. 
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I'm one of the guys who did it without removing the body
PIA is right, took several hours to massage it in there.
That being said I had the entire rear end out and since it's an auto the trans cross member was also out.
If the trans cross member is for a standard, (welded in) I'd say it can't be done (in one piece)
I've read where people have cut and union the line where it comes from the dog-leg to the corner before running along the frame
For the clamps, I used a offset boxed end wrench but you need one with a very steep offset (sometimes called a 75 degree offset) to get behind (above) the line along the frame
If I didn't have the wrench, get a cheapo socket, grind most of the top off and weld a rod to the side of it
Mooser
PIA is right, took several hours to massage it in there.
That being said I had the entire rear end out and since it's an auto the trans cross member was also out.
If the trans cross member is for a standard, (welded in) I'd say it can't be done (in one piece)
I've read where people have cut and union the line where it comes from the dog-leg to the corner before running along the frame
For the clamps, I used a offset boxed end wrench but you need one with a very steep offset (sometimes called a 75 degree offset) to get behind (above) the line along the frame
If I didn't have the wrench, get a cheapo socket, grind most of the top off and weld a rod to the side of it
Mooser
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Frame on, I used the old line as a template. 25ft of both 3/8th and 1/4 and had enough to do the vapor line on the other side. You have to use a tube bender it is easy to kink the line. Mine is a auto with removable cross member as Mooser mentioned.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 747
Likes: 54
From: Dunmore PA
Well I got the old lines out. I even tried tuse body mount bolts again.when you guys fed the line where d you start? Looks like my worst nightmare! I see why you mean about the crossmember now, no wy its going in one piece. Cut it before the dog-leg I guess. What type of unions. Compression or flares? A rubber hose is very tempting in spots.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you can flare the ends and use AN fittings, great. If not, go with good compression fittings meant for use with fuels. If you chose stainless steel line, trying to make good flares could be difficult.