Hi all;

Finally getting around to the 2012 project - swapping engines. Can you give me
some tips in prepping for and removing the engine. I've participated in removing
engines, but have never prepped for doing it.

I plan on cleaning up the engine bay before installing the new engine, so any tips
and suggestions on additional things to do would be good.

Thanks.

 

You will want plenty of cold ones in the fridge.

 

That won't be a problem...

 

I stole this from another site. Remember to take pics, mark, tag and bag everything!!

Preparation:
- typical assortment of hand tools
- cherry picker / engine hoist
- engine leveler / chain
- catch cans for oil, coolant, tranny fluid, power steering fluid
- drop light
- ramps
- engine cradle (or spare tire)
- digital camera (optional)
- rags, hand cleaner, etc.

Prepare the Work Area
- bags, tags, markers, masking tape
- folding table (optional)
- lighting

Check Outgoing Engine's Vital Signs
- compression check / leakdown test
- examine spark plugs

Put Car Up on Ramps
Protect the Sheetmetal
- fender covers, moving blankets, etc.

Disconnect Battery

Remove the Hood
- mark the hinges
- remove the hood latch
- set hood aside (top of car is good place)

Drain Fluids
- engine oil
- coolant
- trannsmission fluid
- power steering fluid
Disconnect Driveshaft and Drop It
Disconnect Transmission Mounts
Disconnect Transmission Kickdown Cable (auto trannies only)
Disconnect / Remove Shifter
Remove Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
Remove Radiator
Remove Heater Hoses
Remove Distributor
Disconnect Throttle Linkage
Remove Carburetor (optional)
Disconnect Fuel Pump
Remove Spark Plug Wires
Disconnect Power Brake Booster
Remove / Disconnect Exhaust Manifolds (Headers)
Remove Motor Mount Bolts
- the fuel pump may need to be removed to get passenger side bolt out
Hook up the Chain
Prepare the Hoist
Yank the Engine watch for stuff that may still be connected
- use at least two guys: one to work the hoist, the others guide the engine out.
Clean and Prepare Engine Bay for New Engine

 

Forgot to add removing accesories off the front of the engine and radiator and shroud removal

 

Step 1). Remove engine. (See attached video.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyG_3Qlnuek

Step 2). Drink beer. (See attached video.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=PY9AJDGEftU


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Adam, what are you putting in there man?!?!

 

> What's going in ?

A 355 4bolt, about 10:1 compression with a (hopefully) computer friendly crane
energizer 272? cam (but I don't recall the #). But first there's an engine bay to clean up and fix up with some new accessories (heater core, AC box, etc.)

Any other tips for prep to pull the engine ?

 

 

I've swapped quite a few engines in various cars, so kinda second nature now. Maybe a couple tips though. I first drill some small Tek screws through the hood hinge plates into the hood, as no way you can mess up hood alignment, when putting it back on. I normally throw an old bed quilt on the roof, and store the hood there. If buying an engine picker, don't go to cheap, as some of those don't have very long booms, and may be of no use. I normally use a carb lifting plate, that bolt's in place of the carb, and don't bother with chains. You're doing the right thing, cleaning/painting the engine bay, as no better time. Don't be in a rush on this, as will really pay off. The normal bagging/tagging of parts is always a good idea, but I find light colored Scotch electrical tape, better than masking tape. Always a good idea taking some pictures, before doing anything.

 

I am figuring on disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the yoke and pulling both the engine and transmission out. Some of the bolts in the corner of the bellhousing are
terrible to loosen.

This is a manual car. I forgot how the Z rod attaches to the engine....

What about the AC? Do you disconnect the compressor, or flop it off to the side ?

 

I left the compressor hooked up on mine.

FYI, I just removed the original engine in my 81' also. What a PITA. I'm super glad all of the outdated emission control crap isn't going back in. I'll be pressure washing the engine bay out today or tomorrow, then I'm doing some paint/detail work on it. It is having a poly suspension rebuild kit put in with 550lb springs and Bilstein shocks before the ZZ4 and 2004R goes in.

I'm excited to see how you do with your project. Stay in touch.

 

Do I need to pull the entire distributor, or just the cap ?
Do I need to remove the oil pressure sensor (screwed in the intake) ?

Radiator needs to come out next...

 

It's easier to pull the motor and then pull the transmission after.
You don't have to take the hood off.
And it's also easier if you put your jack stands under the very front of the frame rails, then pull the tires off so your hoist doesn't get hung up on the tires.
I left the distributor on - but for a first time, I'd at least remove the cap.

Take lots of pictures of where the wires and hoses went - even better is label everything before you pull it off; then take a picture of the labelled, connect wires and hoses; then pull the wires and hoses


I love how easy it is to R&R the motor in a Corvette.

 

I already have the hood off... 6 bolts and a pencil to mark the bracket locations.

Last time I removed the transmission it took all I could give to remove the top
bolts holding the tranny to the engine. So I figured that pulling both together
and separating them when they are out would be easier.

 

the pictures of each and every step and where things go will be invaluable if you do not do this on a frequent basis.

If you plan on leaving the automatic (assume it is one) if you do not pull the tranny with the engine --- get a 2x4 under the pan and a jack to hold the trans up as the engine is what does this.

If an automatic -- get a new converter that stalls in the rpm range of the cam.

If a stick -- now is the time for a new clutch assembly.

When you pull watch and feel for any resistance, should be none. don't let the engine swing till clear with the exhaust manifolds -- they really do a number on the a/c evaporator box. I know from experience

Be careful, keep hands out of the way, support everything and take your time.

 

What did you store the engine and tranny combo on ? I have the other engine
on a stand, but I have nothing for the old one to rest on.

 

I just pulled the engine on my car.

I purchased a 500# capacity engine stand from Harbor Freight that has been doing pretty well. That is just the engine, though. I have yet to pull the transmission from the car. The two will be 'married' prior to insertion into the car. I think I'm OK with the long block, my new aluminum heads, the bellhousing, and the transmission on the 500# stand for a short time, but you could spend another $30 and get the 750# stand. Probably a little more 'certainty' in that.

The 1 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight is BARELY big enough to pull the motor. I had it on its longest 'extension' where it had a 500# capacity and it JUST made it to the centerline of the engine when picking from the passenger's side (as you know, the engine is shifted an inch or two to that side of the car). If you want more flexibility, I'd suggest getting a 2 ton hoist.

I removed the engine seperate from the transmission and yes, the top two bolts are a pain. I ended up getting the last one (upper driver's side) with a pair of micro-needle-nose through the crack between the block and the bellhousing since I couldn't get to the bolt head. For the sake of simplicity in those bolts and in aligning the input shaft, though, it will be going in as one piece.

BE CAREFUL how you connect to the engine. If you have an aluminum intake, absolutely do NOT use a carb plate to pull the engine. My engine guy also has a horrible scar and a missing knuckle from using the intake bolts to pull an engine. Use any accessory bolt available on the head or possibly the exhaust bolts. You want them to be in pure shear, not tension.

I'd remove the exhaust manifolds completely while in the car.

I'd get a friend to help. I planned on doing it myself, but happened to have family in town, so my cousin helped me through "The Moment of Truth". I'm glad he was there.

Pull the entire distributor. Absolutely no reason not to.

My A/C compressor came out.

I purchased a scissor-type transmission jack from Harbor Freight. That's a pretty useful little thing for not much cost.

I pulled the radiator since I planned on removing the cam while still in the engine, but then decided to remove entire engine after the lifters came out in perfect condition. In retrospect, removal of the radiator IS NOT needed to remove the engine...but having less in the engine bay does make maneuvering a lot easier. And it will serve you well in the future while fixing up the engine bay.

If you are really hard for a place to store the engine, a couple of old tires is a good place to start. I'd get a Harbor Freight stand, though. Cheap.

 

Wow, the hard things were:
radiator support - sticky fit.
Z bar - that nut is well hidden.
starter leads - one has a tiny hidden nut.
accellerator bracket on the intake
exhaust bolts - so much stupid junk in the way. Hopefully I can install headers
before dropping the engine in.

I loosened the crossmember and removed the bolts on the tranmission support bracket at the back.

Do I need to remove the crossmember ?
If not, I'm ready.