More bonding questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 696
Likes: 193
From: USA
More bonding questions
Ok I will try to be more concise with my question.
The drivers rear fender section was replaced at some time. You can clearly see the horizontal bond seam between the rear deck and the fender. Notice the fiberglass repair to to right. This chunk of body was grafted into place by someone at a earlier date. My car is a 69 and the rear marker lights on a 68 and 69 are small. This graft had a larger 70-73 large marker light.
I grafted a new 69 marker light into this chunk using polyester resign.
If you look closely at the pic you can see the 69 deck lid fiberglass is obviously glass. Now look at the grafted chunk on the other side of the factory bond joint it looks kinda like marble. It apears to be fiberglass but it has a very different look.
My question is should i have used epoxy resign to graft my marker light into this chunk? I used polyester and it is stuck goooood!!
The drivers rear fender section was replaced at some time. You can clearly see the horizontal bond seam between the rear deck and the fender. Notice the fiberglass repair to to right. This chunk of body was grafted into place by someone at a earlier date. My car is a 69 and the rear marker lights on a 68 and 69 are small. This graft had a larger 70-73 large marker light.
I grafted a new 69 marker light into this chunk using polyester resign.
If you look closely at the pic you can see the 69 deck lid fiberglass is obviously glass. Now look at the grafted chunk on the other side of the factory bond joint it looks kinda like marble. It apears to be fiberglass but it has a very different look.
My question is should i have used epoxy resign to graft my marker light into this chunk? I used polyester and it is stuck goooood!!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Probably SMC. As long as the polyester resin was SMC compatible it's fine. The problem with resin without the SMC additive is poor adhesion so if it stuch well you should be good.
The patch/bond to the left in the picture does not look good though.
The patch/bond to the left in the picture does not look good though.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 435
Likes: 7
From: Wake Forest NC
I agree with zwede about the patch; mine looked the same and peeled off like bacon when stripping the body. Ended up grinding it out and replacing with epoxy mat. Here is a pic where you can see the grafted panel.
After grinding, it blends right in.
After grinding, it blends right in.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 696
Likes: 193
From: USA
Thanks for the comments!
The patch was done by soemone unknown at an unknown time. (at least 3 years ago) I can tell you that when looking at the car with paint it was impossible to see this area. I wonder why you guys think i should re-do it? Thanks!!
The patch was done by soemone unknown at an unknown time. (at least 3 years ago) I can tell you that when looking at the car with paint it was impossible to see this area. I wonder why you guys think i should re-do it? Thanks!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
I had similar patches on my quarter panel & tail light panel
Don't know what the material is but polyester resin didn't stick well at all, so probably a type of SMC. I found that the West Systems epoxy resin worked well, but I eventually replace both the quarter & tail light panels with press mold pieces
Jim
Don't know what the material is but polyester resin didn't stick well at all, so probably a type of SMC. I found that the West Systems epoxy resin worked well, but I eventually replace both the quarter & tail light panels with press mold pieces
Jim
