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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Default Engine looking a bit better......

I started here a couple of weeks ago. Just working nights in the garage detailing out the engine in the car. Everything has to come off and go back on..what a job..full engine bay and tough to clean it all and then paint..lot of taping off but it works..patience...still finishing the air cleaner and having the lid rechromed. Master cylinder still to do, new sheilding on the way...just want to get it on the road...and yes I KNOW the Tonawanda sticker is not correct...but I like it..had one on my 69 Camaro..


NOW I AM HERE...A LITTLE CLOSER

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Looks great!
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Looks great! What are your plans for the master cylinder? My sons 73 needs attention and am curious to know what you are using. Thanks!
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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For the master cylinder, I used Eastwood Co.'s cast blast I think it was called. It's a very close match to bare cast iron. You'd definitely want to use something different on the the cap.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Hi SC6,
Your work looks very nice!
I always enjoy seeing well done engine compartments and your's certainly fits that description!
I believe the master cylinder had a thin, semi-flat, black finish on it originally.
NICE WORK!
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Jul 21, 2012 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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Very nice.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Lupigiato73
Looks great! What are your plans for the master cylinder? My sons 73 needs attention and am curious to know what you are using. Thanks!
Not sure yet. I have to do my research and see how they were finished from the factory.

C3 4ME is correct on the cast blast. I works well and do most paints from Eastwood. Their plating kits work very well. Looks like Cad and Black Phosphate. Mine paid for themselves on the '59 with so many Cad parts.

Alan is also correct on the black paint. The C-1's were bare metal and had a bit of overspray from the blackout when it was done. So I may be using both ideas posted by these guys. Waiting on my NCRS judging manual to arrive. Not having the car judged but want to go as correct as possible. One thing I learned on the C-1's is never say never on how something was done or what was used depending on when the car was built.

Originally Posted by C3 4ME
For the master cylinder, I used Eastwood Co.'s cast blast I think it was called. It's a very close match to bare cast iron. You'd definitely want to use something different on the the cap.
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi SC6,
Your work looks very nice!
I always enjoy seeing well done engine compartments and your's certainly fits that description!
I believe the master cylinder had a thin, semi-flat, black finish on it originally.
NICE WORK!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Sunset--

That really looks very great... You're right, a little sweat, determination, and good taping job, and you can do wonders...

Rogman
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Sunset,
I would love to have that motor in my car. LOL
I first cleaned my master cylinder then then covered up everything to prevent the poo and dust from the wire wheel spreading all over my clean engine bay, then used a dremel stainless steel wire wheel. It pulled off the rust build up down to the bare metal with ease. I then painted it. I also pulled off the M/C lid and placed tape over the cups to keep debris out. It turned out very nice.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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Nice
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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...and yes I KNOW the Tonawanda sticker is not correct...

Ha! My neighbor worked at the Tonawanda plant; I remember he gave me a wad of those stickers. I stuck 'em everywhere (bikes, wagons, light switches, etc). Wish I would've held onto them...
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 03:23 PM
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that is looking nice. I like seeing these types of photos as it gives me motivation to get mine done, and make it look just as good.

thanks for posting

kdf
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GPGG70
Sunset,
I would love to have that motor in my car. LOL
I first cleaned my master cylinder then then covered up everything to prevent the poo and dust from the wire wheel spreading all over my clean engine bay, then used a dremel stainless steel wire wheel. It pulled off the rust build up down to the bare metal with ease. I then painted it. I also pulled off the M/C lid and placed tape over the cups to keep debris out. It turned out very nice.
That is my plan as well...take it to bare metal and then go by the book for the finish.

Originally Posted by gkz
...and yes I KNOW the Tonawanda sticker is not correct...

Ha! My neighbor worked at the Tonawanda plant; I remember he gave me a wad of those stickers. I stuck 'em everywhere (bikes, wagons, light switches, etc). Wish I would've held onto them...
Yep...they are Classic...and just look cool on the engines..gives the painted valve covers some bling...

Originally Posted by kdf1986
that is looking nice. I like seeing these types of photos as it gives me motivation to get mine done, and make it look just as good.

thanks for posting

kdf
Just got to get after it and have patience...it is slow go with it and I did a little each night...but in the end the finish product is worth it..if your not pulling the engine out.

Thanks for all the compliments....cool crowd here on the C-3 Forum...
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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engine looking sweet. your hard work and patience shows. would the braided spark plug wires help in keeping the heat off from my headers?
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 71redskin
engine looking sweet. your hard work and patience shows. would the braided spark plug wires help in keeping the heat off from my headers?
Not an expert by any means on them...this is my first C-3...but I see no reason why it would not help...plus they just look cool on these cars..
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Did a little more tonight...Glass beaded and cad plated the hood support then cleaned the master cylinder and clear coated it.

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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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Looks great! I glass beaded my hood support on my 79 and simply put a clear coat over the bare metal. Looks factory to me, but yours looks even better.
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